Working-Class Revolvers

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Darkenfast

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Corvallis, Oregon
As a poor person, I'm interested in working-class guns. I currently only have 9mm in center-fire, but I used to be more of a revolver guy, specifically .357s. I also really think that six-inch barrels have a lot of advantages in magnums. This post is just to get some conversation going.

I have often admired the L-frame (used to have an early 586, way back), and I think the 7-shot "Plus" version is the pinnacle in a lot of ways. But besides the price, those L-frames are heavy, and I don't have a ton of upper-body strength. The six-inch 686+ weighs 44.3 oz. That weight helps with recoil, of course, but the handling is sluggish for me. My first firearm (centuries ago), was a six-inch Ruger Security Six. Not sluggish at all. I'm sorry S&W never made a long-barreled 620 (remember those?). I think for some people, it isn't the length of the longer guns that is a problem, it's the weight.

Back to weight and length and being poor. I've been watching and reading a lot of reviews of the Rossi RM66 (have yet to see one). Most of the reviews on YT are of over-the-counter examples, not selected samples sent to gun writers. The weight is 34.4 oz. The gun is a slim six-shot. It seems to have a decent action. It's not pretty, but "beauty is as beauty does", and those funny looking grips seem to do a good job of handling recoil in the lighter gun. You get the sight-radius, reduced blast/noise, and velocity advantages of the longer tube.

It seems to be running over $300 dollars cheaper than the Smiths. If you look at the threads in the 1980 and Newer Revolvers section, are you getting that much better QC out of S&W, these days? Even from the PC guns?

What say the brethren and sistren? Is a poor person (especially out in the country), really that much worse off with an RM66 in an Uncle Mikes holster (gasp!)? There seems to be some affection for old H&R and Iver Johnson and such in this Other Firearms section. This seems to fall in that category.

Any other candidates?
 
I owned one Rossi many years ago that I liked. I didn't keep it long, but I've always been one buys, tries, sells, and tries something else. It seemed well made and shot just fine. It looked about like a Colt Diamondback which is the reason I bought it.

I've owned a number of Taurus revolvers over the years. Same deal pretty much. Buy, try, and sell. I only actually shot one of them a lot, and that was a Model 82? 38 Special and it shot like a champ using my Lee Loader to reload 38 Wadcutters. The others all seemed to be well made and I did shoot them all at least 100 rounds or so.. Twenty-two LR to 44 Magnum, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another.

I've also owned a Rock Island Arms 38. Plain Jane, 38 revolver with a 4" barrel. Ugly finish, but the gun seemed to shoot fine. I don't know if they make a 357 or not. They were very inexpensive at the time. I don't know about now.

Right now, I'm tempted by the "Windicator." No idea why. I just saw a used one at the LGS and thought it looked "interesting" but passed on it. If I hadn't already had something else on layaway I probably would have tried that one too.
 
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Sorry for the thread drift. You seem to be interested
the 36 caliber revolvers. I've seen the Rossi's and they
look and feel fine (Haven't shot one).

In June I got a Charter Arms 44 Special for $367.00.
It's trigger is the one S&W wishes they had. Now I've
got around 400 rounds thru it without a problem.
It looks clunky but runs great. Check out the link for
some other stuff to think about. You might want a
larger caliber.

Again, sorry for the drift.


http://smith-wessonforum.com/concea...ame-revolvers-home-defense.html#post141752330
 
I picked up a Charter Arms Bulldog Model 74410 On Duty last year: think of a Model 638 (shrouded hammer) on steroids (44 Special vs. 38 Special +P) and in SS instead of alloy...

Capacity is 5, size is almost that of a K frame, weight is only 21 oz. Since I reload I can shoot everything from a 160gr LFN through all the typical 240 grain projectiles: lead, plated & jacketed.. The Hornady 185gr ZOMBIE & the Nosler 200gr JHP are two favorite SD-type loads. There's even Buffalo Bore factory 200gr HC ANTIPERSONNEL:eek: wadcutter ammo available.

Everything I had counted on, and more!

Cheers!

P.S. Besides, it is doubtful the OP would actually need the additional Ooomph! of a 357 Magnum very often in the wilds of Corvallis:rolleyes:...?
 
STORMINORMAN said:
I picked up a Charter Arms Bulldog Model 74410 On Duty last year: think of a Model 638 (shrouded hammer) on steroids (44 Special vs. 38 Special +P) and in SS instead of alloy...

Capacity is 5, size is almost that of a K frame, weight is only 21 oz. Since I reload I can shoot everything from a 160gr LFN through all the typical 240 grain projectiles: lead, plated & jacketed.. The Hornady 185gr ZOMBIE & the Nosler 200gr JHP are two favorite SD-type loads. There's even Buffalo Bore factory 200gr HC ANTIPERSONNEL:eek: wadcutter ammo available.

Everything I had counted on, and more!

Cheers!

P.S. Besides, it is doubtful the OP would actually need the additional Ooomph! of a 357 Magnum very often in the wilds of Corvallis:rolleyes:...?
Click to expand...

Have you seen the "cougars" in this town?

Used to live in the country, may again. In any case it's an interest of mine, even though my six-inch barreled 9mm (acquired cheap years ago), loaded with +P, will probably suffice for whatever I'm likely to need. Sadly, even the "cougars" are younger than me!
 
OP, your question is if you are 'worse off' and my opinion would be: no, not at all.

This is a product (revolvers) in a product category; some prefer 'best in category' based on personal preferences, brand loyalty, fit/form/function, or based on what is available or budgets.

If it functions reliably and works for you, that's the bottom line.
 
If it is intended for "target practice" or plinking the Rossi, Taurus, et al will work just fine, and as you have noted, at a lower price point. If it is intended for self defense, then I can distill my decades-long LE career, which included several gunfights, to the observations that I never wanted fewer bullets or a cheaper gun.
 
I too have a Rossi 720 Covert (spurless hammer). It is a very nice .44 revolver for the $200 I paid used. It has some nicks and such but I can’t say it came like that from the factory being it was used.
Another little blaster is my Taurus 445 also in .44 Spl. Nicely finished and has held up well.
I saw another Taurus 450 snub in .45 Colt with a ported barrel a while back. Wish I’d have nabbed it.
I also have a Charter ,44 Spl and a .22 Pathfinder. No issues with them.
 
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Something that is always overlooked when buying on a tight budget:

Cost of AMMO !!!

Unless you are into reloading, 357 mag and even 38 spl can be expensive.
I can and do buy in bulk and immediately mark the price per box on each box of ammo. Since retiring I find that I shoot my 9mm pistols and 22lr rifles a lot more often now. Shooting 357 mag or 308 match hurts my wallet. I have a cheap Glock 36 and expensive Dan Wesson Specialist 1911. Both shoot the same 45ACP and neither gets much range time.

Just something to consider when considering your next purchase.

Enjoy
 
serger said:
Sorry for the thread drift. You seem to be interested
the 36 caliber revolvers. I've seen the Rossi's and they
look and feel fine (Haven't shot one).

In June I got a Charter Arms 44 Special for $367.00.
It's trigger is the one S&W wishes they had. Now I've
got around 400 rounds thru it without a problem.
It looks clunky but runs great. Check out the link for
some other stuff to think about. You might want a
larger caliber.

Again, sorry for the drift.


http://smith-wessonforum.com/concea...ame-revolvers-home-defense.html#post141752330
Click to expand...

.44 Special ammo is very hard to find , nd expensive when you do.I reload my own and save a lot of money.
 
Just my personal experience

This is just my opinion and not a comment on other people’s personal choices. But, I have always found the best way to avoid disappointment and regret involving the purchase of a durable product is to save a little more or earn a little more, put off the urge spend impulsively, and ultimately get what I really want.
But, that’s just me.

First, others have alluded to the cost of ammo. I have discovered that I can quickly spend more for ammo than I did on the cost of any mass produced firearm. Heck, even if you shoot an airgun you can easily spend thousands of dollars on pellets over the years if you train regularly. Buying a cheap revolver chambered for an expensive cartridge is foolish logic.

Second, if I were on a tight budget and considering a 44 Special or 357 Magnum, handloading would be essential. A Lee Loader is slow to use but usually under $40. It’ll pay for itself quickly in ammo savings, (hence more money for a better revolver).

Third, all of the budget brand revolvers mentioned here have lousy customer service and poor availability of spare parts, to one degree or another. The Taurus “lifetime warranty” is a well known joke: it’ll take a lifetime until you get it back!
Regardless of how nice a budget revolver might seem in the store or on that first range trip, if you shoot that cheap gun enough it will break sooner than one better made and designed, using superior (ie: more costly) materials.
Talk to a few gunsmiths and you’ll find out how many won’t touch any of the cheapies mentioned here so far.
The one exception to the aforementioned: Ruger. Buy a used Security Six. Even if you're not the original owner, Ruger will still fix it.

Whenever money has been tight, I ask myself “do I really need this …….”? Or, “Would I be better off just saving my money?” Perhaps even, “Gee, I already have a half dozen other guns I never shoot. Do I really need another? Maybe I should sell off what I’m not using?” (Funny thing, another way to find out what a waste of money budget brand guns are is to try and resell one!)

Lastly, nothing is quite so bitter as buying something that’s simply not good enough. It either can’t do what I expect or fails when I need it most. Then, I’ve lost all of my money. I’m better to have saved a little longer and spent a little more.
But, like I said, that’s just me.
 
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smoothshooter said:
.44 Special ammo is very hard to find , nd expensive when you do.I reload my own and save a lot of money.
Click to expand...

I reload almost all my ammo, especially for revolvers. When I got my first handgun I bought a Lee Loader for 38 Special, and have been doing it ever since. I don't know if I actually saved any money, but I've always had ammo when I wanted to go to the range.
 
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I have some experience with inexpensive guns, but only one revolver. Overall I would say they are worth what you pay for them but try to buy a used one as they generally go for a song. The Rossi 66 looks like it's going for $500 retail. Bet you could find a used one for $300 in a pawn shop but you're going to have to search.

I have one Taurus revolver. Nice looking revolver. It's a model 83 which would remind a S&W fan of a heavy-barrel Model 15. Nice finish ("stainless"?) Good trigger, nice adjustable sights. The only problem is the .363 cylinder throats. It's not accurate enough for me to use for target shooting, but plenty accurate enough for social work.

(No, HBWC's didn't help it shoot better at all. When I get around to it I'm going to try some of my 9mm Makarov cast bullets. But those are kind of light for the caliber. I'm not buying a custom oversized mold for a $200 revolver.)
 
The OP says he likes a 6" .357 with 7 round capacity and I just looked for new guns and saw a Taurus 66 that fits that description at Locked and Loaded for $410. It is fairly heavy though with a full underlug barrel. I saw a 3" Taurus .357 6 shot that would be much lighter and it was only $312. I've had good luck with Taurus revolvers.
 
It seems the term "working class" is used here as a mislabel for revolvers that are less expensive than Smith & Wessons, Colts, and maybe Rugers. For some, a true "working class" designation could easily be applied to those revolvers as well.

Some examples of the less expensive revolvers mentioned in these posts may work very well, but the chances of getting a really good revolver increases considerably when you get into the costlier guns, as should be the case.

Also, consider resale value and desirability of the lesser guns at sale or trade time; certainly a possibility that we can't always predict, even when we say we'll never sell a particular gun. Circumstances change.

Some of us don't like to be faced with the regretful "I wish I had spent a little more and bought something better" after using a particular gun for a time.

Buy what you like; we needn't condemn anyone's choices, but consider carefully before making decisions.
 
Buy a second hand (used) S&W revolver four inch in .38 Special or .357 Magnum. Putting aside a little cash every month eventually I bought my first New in Box S&W revolver, a Model 29 four inch that I still have 40+ years later. It is truly special and cherished.

I always regretted buying “knockoffs”.
 
Just jumping back into the conversation I started with an observation about what I'll sum up as the "you get what you pay for" argument, i.e. paying much more for an S&W is worth it because it's better built. I wish that were true, and maybe it was. But when $1500 Performance Center revolvers are showing up too often with obvious defects that never should have been allowed out of the factory, then I have to wonder.

It's not just S&W. I am seeing a disconnect between what legacy names are charging, and how well their products actually work.

Regarding the cost of ammunition: this is a good point. 9mm is the only center-fire I own, and it is the cheapest, in the way that .38 Special once was. I suspect that .38 Special is in 2nd place. .357 Magnum is obviously more expensive, especially if you feel the need to go for the latest super-duper buzz-saw bullet that the magazines are touting (same thing happens in 9mm as well). That's where I believe the six-inch .357 has an advantage, as it can get a lot out of more affordable standbys (Federal 158 gr. JSPs or Remington 125 gr. JHPs, for example).

I think the working-class guy who buys a working-class revolver is not going to be able to afford to blow through hundreds of rounds a month. Hopefully, he'll practice less, but better.

The Taurus Model 66 is second on my list of interesting working-class revolvers. Seven-shots, 40 oz. (vs 6/34.4 for the Rossi and 7/44.3 for the 686+).

Yeah, we all know the reputation of Taurus is and that they now own Rossi. Aside from the format of a lighter six-inch wheelgun, my interest here is: What kind of revolvers are those two brands turning out NOW, and how much more likely is it that they will not work from the factory vs. that 50% more expensive S&W or Colt?

Maybe I'm just not a good consumerist, these days.
 
Darkenfast said:
As a poor person, I'm interested in working-class guns. I currently only have 9mm …
Click to expand...

If you’re poor do not think about buying another handgun. You got a 9mm so you are “good to go “. Take care of your family and yourself first.

In the life of a shooter, some buy a box of 50 rounds annually. Others a case (1000 rounds) others a pallet (10,000+ rounds) and some of us reload our own ammunition because shooting competition you may need 100,000 rounds annually.
 
Given the state of the US firearms industry, I would say that while the "economical" revolver still exists - Charter Arms, Taurus come to mind - there is no longer much "economical" factory CF revolver ammo.

The cheapest major factory .38 Special ammo is $25-35/box of 50 at retail, usually loaded with low-velocity 130 grain FMJ bullets. Calibres like .357 Magnum and .44 Special are higher priced, and availability scarcer.

The market takeover by 9mm Luger - a result of internet influencers, changed consumer demand (real and perceived), and manufacturers wanting to make easier/cheaper and higher profit polymer frame and MIM pistols - has made nearly every other handgun calibre something of a niche item.

9mm has become ubiquitous, ad nauseam. Which makes it the most competitive and cheapest ammo available. However, there are few 9mm revolvers, for a host of reasons, one of which is that it is a obnoxious cartridge in a revolver.

If your ammunition requirements are a box or two of factory ammunition a year, the economical revolvers will serve you well. Any shooting beyond that level will require reloading - and that is a whole other discussion of cost.
 
I too thought that working man’s guns were anything in the used case in the lgs. Deals are still out there to be had. I recently bought a 10-6 with a decent leather holster for $350. The only mark on it is on the cylinder from slide around in the nightstand drawer. The fine young man was sell grandmas gun to fund his latest plastic blaster. Keep saving your extra cash and keep your eyes open and you’ll find a deal.
 
While they certainly aren’t as low priced as they used to be, I’ve always found Charter Arms revolvers to be good guns for the money. Have a .44 Spl Bulldog I bought in 2010 that’s seen the better part of 1k rounds with no issues. But like others here have said, .44 Spl ammo isn’t cheap so it pays to reload for it.
 
I've owned Taurus made guns and they have always shot good. I had a 66 that was super accurate, but you had to put blue lock tight on all the screws periodically because it would shoot loose.
 
I own several Colt, S&W, Glock, Beretta and Ruger handguns. Most of my handguns have been purchased on the second-hand market, but I have purchased a few new and I had to save up for those.

I also own a Taurus Model 82 revolver in 38 Special. I won it at a live auction a couple months ago. Nobody was interested and I grabbed it more out of curiosity. After I paid the tax and auction fee, I was out $330 dollars - a very reasonable amount in 2023.

I figured if it was a lousy shooter, I could use it for trading stock. Instead, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that I had acquired a solid no-frills service revolver. I've heard many a tale about Taurus having spotty QC, but I have no complaints regarding this particular unit. I always like to have a few duty or working-class revolvers. Here is the Taurus with my father's old Idaho State Police S&W Model 65. Another "working-class" revolver that isn't as common or as affordable as it once was. Incidentally I really like the grip on the Taurus. Very comfortable.

Last week I finally decided to scratch an itch after many decades and purchased one of the new Colt Pythons. It set me back $1,446 dollars. For some folks here that isn't bad, but l have never spent that much on a handgun in my life. I'm 55. Incidentally it's a very well-made revolver and I'm very pleased with it. Sometimes it's neat to be able to buy a higher end handgun and since it is a very rare event, I find that I enjoy it.

Without a doubt my next handgun purchase will be a used model.
 

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