Worn hammer/trigger?

[Friedrich]

M686 has got an issue (again). It's my first revolver and had 10.000 rounds through it, most of them magnum loads. It has also been handled by many novice shooters while training them, wich isn't optimal, but I cared for it as good as possible.

I noticed how an apprentice had a malfunction this friday. In stead of firing frm SA-mode , the trigger went forward together with the hammer. As I was searching for the fault at home, I noticed it does this every time if you pull the trigger with the top of your finger only, otherwise there is no problem.

While examining it further, I remembered the tests you should do buying a second hand revolver. So I cocked it, and tried to push the hammer foward. Well, it failed, and I didn't need much force either.

So, the trigger mechanist is worn, I guess? It is a 686-5 with MIM-parts and an internal firing pin ...

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

You have pushoff. It's fixable with a 6 inch stone. Or you can buy a new trigger.
Here in the FAQ's is the fix.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/94072-faqs.html



To correct push off

The hammer notch must be square, sharp and not rounded. It's only .005 inch tall so use a eye loupe to inspect it. Use a new stone to true it up, if it's not square. (I like ceramic stones for this) Then after the hammer is proper, stoning the trigger will correct the push off.

Remember use a 6 inch long stone. Changing the stone length will affect the trigger pull.

To test the trigger hook, you scrap it on your thumb nail. If nail is scraped off, you got it sharpened correctly.

If you want a lighter single action pull, you dull the angle by lightly stoning the angle parallel to the table top.

 

[Friedrich]

I didn't know it's called 'pushoff'.Mmmmmh. I sthink this is a job for the gunsmith. I never succeeded in removing the sideplate.