Would like to get some photo advice please...

JJEH

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Guys,

I know we have some topics like that, but I really would appreciate some specific advise from our photographers here...

I was playing around and tried different stuff, like light, flash, angles, etc.

Here are 3 shots from the same angle:

W/O Flash
11927787dt.jpg


With Flash
11927788ot.jpg


B/W
11927790ul.jpg


I don't want to become world best picture taker, but I'm really not that satisfied with the results...

My camera is a Fuji FinePix S2500HD and put it on automatic mode...

I appreciate any thoughts, ideas, critics,... imprecations :D
 
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  1. Set up next to a window that will give you bright indirect natural lighting and see how it comes out.
  2. Hook up a white sheet on a U shaped frame and set up in the center of it - hook up two white light floods behind the sheet and see how you like that one.
Pete
 
If you are going to stay with "auto" (I do as I am lazy:D) as the other stated, natural daylight is best. early morning or late afternoon.

I is way to bright here most of the time so I use 3 or 4 natural day light CF bulbs(6500 K) in those silver reflector things (Lowes or Depot)

Hope you don't mind I "stole" (I will delete it) your pic and just used auto adjust to brighten it and cropped it a little. Without the whole big file it is hard to manipulate (set your camera to the highest pixel setting. It will make a big file but more detail and you can always make it smaller for posting.

testpicLarge_zpsae8a2ba5.jpg
 
Alright, I put the whole thing closer to a window.

Both pictures are w/o flash, but more natural light...

11928383fb.jpg


11928384jg.jpg


Still not satisfied. Guess I have to do alot of practicing...
 
Rule3, that's what I do. Big pixel on the camera and then Microsoft Office 2010 to resize it. I tried playing with the colors and brightness... but I'm too stupid for that... it's just getting worse...
 
Try a background with more contrast. The grays blend in to much with the gun.

Thanks, I will. Gotta get some new batteries tomorrow and take some new pictures. Cannot find the charger, don't know where it is... :confused:
 
Hi,

Congratulations on your quest to take better images, vs. just getting "snap shots." Geez, I hate the term "snap shot" as much as I hated the way our late hunting club president used to shoot at any deer that he'd catch a glimpse of. He'd just yank up the rifle, see a cross hair on deer hide, and "snap" off a shot. I tracked a lot of deer for that guy.

No, shooting images correctly is not the same as a quick snap shot, but understanding what to do, and setting up your shot intellegently will let you truly "bag" a "trophy" of an image.

1. First . . . SHOOT FROM A "REST." Just like with accurate target shooting we must eliminate the shooter's shake from the equation! In other words, "bench rest" your camera on a shooting bag or table.

Best of all, use a tripod if you have one. If you don't have a tripod, invest in one and your photos will go from "soft" to "sharp" right away!

Additional tip if you have a tripod or a rest that won't move . . . set your camera on "timer" mode, then gently depress the shutter button with the finesse of a great trigger pull . . . then gently remove your hand entirely from the camera before it fires. Doing so will totally remove any vibration caused even by a blood vessel in your body vibrating the camera! Sort of like triggering a gun on a bench via a Ransom Rest!"

2. WHEN SHOOTING SHINY METAL OBJECTS WITH CURVES IN THEM . . .
Never, ever use flash. The light from the flash will bounce right back to the lens and show you every little smudge and the most miniscule little scratches which possible you'll never see with a naked eye!

You want soft, even, diffuse light when you shoot. Others have covered this well. Outdoors on a shady day works well, as does shooting indoors on a table or bed with soft, filtered sunlight. Lots of ways to do it . . . just no harsh light (like a flash) reflecting on the gun!

3. MAXIMIZE YOUR DEPTH OF FIELD (the range of depth from the front of the gun to the back that is acceptably in focus in your shot). This means . . .

Move your camera's rotary dial from "P" mode to "A" (Aperture) mode. "Program" mode is programmed to make the same mistake every time under certain situations. It's absolutelywonderful for "snap shots" but you are wanting a sharp gun image!

Once you set the knob to "A" go to your +/- adjustment area and hit + until the Aperture you select is a high number (ie: 16 or higher vs. 4 or so). Remember, the HIGHER the number, the greater the depth of field that will remain in acceptable focus!!!

Shooting close-up photography means the depth of field will be quite shallow from front to back on the gun . . . so you need a high "A" number to make this happen. On "P" mode you might be quite disappointed. It doesn't know what you are shooting!

BTW, you MUST use a tripod or brace the camera so it cannot move AT ALL when using a high A number like 16, 19, 22 or higher, for the camera will be forced to slow down the shutter speed to expose correctly for a high "A" setting! NO vibration is a must when the shutter may be open for a long time!

HOPE THIS HELPS . . .

I'll add other tips in a moment.

Tom
 
Try a background with more contrast. The grays blend in to much with the gun.

THIS^^^^^
I use light blue felt stuff my Wife had (goes with S&W:)) and use the lights I mentioned. If I take the same shot with a white or grey back ground the picture is terrible (again this is on lazy/auto mode)

Thanks Tom for you words of advice, I started playing with the aperture mode but got lazy again. I even made a "light house" and set up on a tripod even though I have anti shake and the pics were better but all I wanted was pics for record keeping. Outside is much easier for me.:o
 
What is it that you don't like about the photos? Hard to know where to go without first having more info.
 
What is it that you don't like about the photos? Hard to know where to go without first having more info.

Well, it's hard to explain. They look like more "snap shots" than "pictures." They kinda look "cheap" you know. Not really nice...
 
Okay, here's another try...

Procedure like tom turner said; tri-pod, self timer, Modus A, Aperture 10.

11933099xq.jpg


Same thing, just with auto correct ...

11933101tt.jpg
 
Hi again Jorge,

One way to get really even light, which really helps when shooting guns (with a camera), is a light tent. The externally lit light tent will allow the light to come through totally diffuse, and thus give perfect, even light.

I made one "on the cheap" and so can you. All you need is a few low cost, easy-to-get items. When you are done you can break it all down for storage in no time flat! BTW, DO NOT glue the PVC elbows together!

5903761134_fb1130309f_b.jpg



PS: I'm usually much too impatient to set it up, instead using other diffuse lighting that's naturally around us in places . . . but when I'm REALLY serious about getting a sharp shot, its the best way!
 
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Dang, you have a whole photo studio there...

Thanks for sharing this, I now will go and do my homework!

P.S. I'm impatient too, that might be my problem right there...
 
Hi again Jorge,

You are getting there. Actually, we all are once we decide to really pay attention and learn to improve our images!

Can I give a kindly suggestion?

"Black guns" are basically shades of gray. Eventually very dark gray turns into "black" and the lightest shades turn into white.

Compounding matters, the light meter in a camera doesn't know what part of the image it 'sees' on its screen is the part of the image that needs to be perfectly exposed, so the camera is programmed to "average" all the extremes together and come up with the "average" exposure compensation needed.

To the camera's image sensor, it is going to expose for an "average" luminosity of 18% gray. That is a medium gray color. At this point the camera isn't worrying about color so let's avoid THAT talk right now.

UNFORTUNATELY, your gun isn't medium gray in luminosity at all . . . it is deep black, but the camera doesn't have a brain . . . so it OVEREXPOSES your image to make the black gun "properly" exposed as medium gray. NOT GOOD!

Now let's talk COLOR. Your camera sets exposure based on luminosity (shades of black to white), so your background will help "trick" the camera if it sees a background of 18% gray OR a color background that is medium in shade that equals that medium gray in luminosity.

SUGGESTION . . . try a splash of medium shaded color behind your black gun . . . and maybe the gun will "pop" in the photo.

I HATE this attached image, but I've kept working on it to show you what it might mean to you.

My background here is a burgundy(medium/dark), so I have to "trick" my camera (since I know the background AND the gun are a little darker than most scenes). So, I adjust my exposure manually to "overexpose" this image by about + 1 or +1.5. This way, the camera won't expose for the programed average medium tones and end up with a gray gun! LOL

If I'd used a medium-toned color background I would not have had to manually trick my camera's light meter. YOUR camera will manually do the same . . . that's why that advanced feature is on it!

Hope this helps.

Here's the shot I hate . . . since this Para's frame is a gray-black in tone instead of a rich black like the slide. Plus the "black" plastic grips are also not pure black.

Even after a lot of post-processing effort, this is the best I could get it. It is still a pretty decent shot though . . . and I wanted to show it to you so you can see how a splash of color can make an image jump.

If you shoot your black gun on a monochromatic background it will trick the camera to overexpose the shot and make it all look flat.

Hope this helps! BTW, this image was shot INSIDE the light tent I pictured above . . . only I placed this colored fabric on top of the white paper under the gun and also draped it behind the gun and over the PVC pipe to make a burgundy "wall" behind the gun.

8017738202_706b31b5dd_h.jpg



PS: I also propped up the gun with a hidden prop that you can't see in the photo. This allows the gun to seem to "float" in front of the background, and also cast a shadow . . . and this gives the image depth.

1. Laying a gun flat on a surface won't have the same effect at all!

2. Letting the background be a couple of inches (or more) behind the propped gun also adds to the feel of dimension.
 
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