WW and Tin alloy.

Hunt200

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I got my hands on 2 lbs. of pure tin and hundreds of pounds of WWs. The question is, how much tin should I add, to lets say 10 lbs. of WWs using it sparingly but effectively?
 
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I would try straight WWs and see how they cast. I use a 50/50 mix of stick-on to clip-on WWs at pretty high velocities and don't have any leading problems. Usually the key is to make the bullets big enough in diameter for your gun, if you don't want leading.
 
Tin major contribution is that it helps the alloy flow and fill the mold. About 2% tin is usually enough. I'd try the WW without tin and if you have trouble filling the mold add a little tin until it works.
 
Like has been mentioned above, tin is for flow. It does make bullets harder too. What it boils down to is what do you want the bullets to do once cast? High velocity or target work?

More tin, higher velocity should be attainable. I use 1lb of Linotype to 9lbs of WW for loads just over target velocity, 1000-1200fps. Linotype's main addition to the mix is it's content of tin.

Try to do a search and find out how much tin there is in Linotype.
 
I have 10-12 pounds of tin and about the same amount of Mono-type and really haven't seen any need for it up to 1750 fps.
 
I bought about 20 pounds of pure tin several years ago and cast it all into 125gr. 9mm bullets. Not to shoot! Every time I add a couple pounds of wheel weights to the pot, I throw in one of those bullets. For a long time I used 50/50 plumber's tin. Too expensive! On top of that, I shoot at home, so recover most of my fired bullets. Plus, anyone's that shoots with me! I shoot everything from a 9mm up to 45 LC. I'll be shooting that tin for a lot of years!
Dick
PS - I shoot lead in a 30/30, too!
 
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Linotypes main contribution is Antimony, which hardens the bullet, tin allows the alloy to flow out to fill the mould.
If I were you I would order some Linotype from Rotometals and use it to mix with your WW. WW is already a pretty good material, the newer stuff needs a little more Tin/Antimony to bring it up to snuff.
Lino is typically made up of 4%tin, 12%Antimony and 84% lead.
I would save my pure Tin to mix with pure lead, that is how you can achieve a 20-1 or 16-1 mix for a softer hunting bullet in rifles like the .45-70 etc.
Going from memory and note my formula's I think 20lb WW mixed with about 2lb Lino will work very well indeed.
Rotometals is a great company, fair prices and if you order over $100 worth of metal delivery is free.
I have 60/40 and 50/50 plumbers tin sticks if anyone is interested.
RD
 
+1 on the Linotype. I use 3:2 ration by volume alloy of wheelweights to Linotype. If sized & lubed correctly, can be shot out of any gun without gaschecks and without leading from 750 fps to 1450 fps. The same goes for pure Lino but you don't need that hard an alloy. Adding tin does very little to harden alloy but makes the melt pore and fill out bullets a whole lot better. The key to accurate bullets without leading is correct sizing and lube, not matching BHN to velocity-a notion currently in vogue in some circles.

:)

Bruce
 
Straight ww, aircooled, will do fine for vel to 1200fps or so. Adding 1%-2% tin will help the molds fill out better, especially in smaller bullet dia. It does harden the alloy a little @ higher ratios. I shoot LHP @ 25-1 pure lead to tin. They expand well to 1250fps, cast beautifully.
 
I shoot a 260 grain Keith bullet at 1570 fps out of my Winchester Trapper in .45 Colt. Cast of half wheel weights half pure lead the load leads the barrel, badly.

Cast from straight air cooled wheel weights there in no leading at all.


Cat
 
I found 2% tin is enough to make WW fluid and a perfect fill of the mould.-Also, WW contains arsenic wich permits heat treating.- In my experience, I got 12 Bn as cast, and 26Bn (!) droping in water from the mould.
 

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