Yoke Screw

[len917]

Hi all.
My 36-1 yoke screw keeps loosening. Quite annoying. Movement of screw by 1/32" either direction will loosen it for the yoke to come out, or tighten it and cylinder won't close.
Any ideas?
Thanks

 

[arjay]

A little clear nail Polish on the threads might be enough

 

[usedkid]

The yoke screw needs to be fitted to enable the screw to be fully tightened. You may want to try switching the other side plate domed screw with this one…they are the same with one of them being fitted correctly for the yoke screw. Side plate may have been removed and the screws got mixed-up.

 

[BHP9]

Or you can do this.

 

[ken158]

Or you can do this.

Interesting conversion of sorts but has nothing to do with a yoke screw and the OP's J frame does not have a leaf spring…

 

[Inusuit]

I agree that the OP may have the wrong screw.

 

[len917]

I'll try the old switcheroo, if it works then I'll do the nail polish thing
Thanks

 

[chief38]

Your Yoke Screw is either worn, stripped or not fitted properly. It could also not be tightened to the correct torque - that is sort of a skill with guns..... tight enough but not excessively. It could also be the wrong one. Personally I do NOT like using Locktite on Yoke Screws as I routinely remove the Cylinder when cleaning a Revolver and Locktite would interfere with that process. IMHO Locktite should NOT be needed if using the proper screw in good condition and tightened correctly.

There are only a vey very few instances I can justify using Locktite on a gun in good working condition. Usually fixing the problem is the answer - not "gluing" it in.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

If you need a replacement Numrich has most of those screws in stock. Look at #33 on the M36-1 page.

Good luck

 

[steelslaver]

Take a look at the groove and "button" on the end of your yoke pivot shaft.

I can't see how a good screw with a proper tip turning even one whole turn can go from to tight to loose enough for cylinder to be removed. The threads for that screw are 32 to the inch so you only get 1/32" of travel per turn.

Does the end of your yoke crew have about 1/16" or so tip with now threads? The no thread area is needed because if the tip has threads, they will drag on sides of groove.

Is the groove clean, uniform with no burrs? Is the button on end undamaged? A spot that has some how been bent in will cause yoke to bind on screw.

Next are the threads on you screw good? Does a screw with good threads tighten up in frame if the yoke is removed? Should be 8-32 threads.

 

[austintexas]

If swapping screws doesn't work you might try stoning a little off the end of the yoke screw so it doesn't bottom out on the yoke when tightened.
SWCA 892

 

[len917]

Disassembled yoke etc for a cleaning hoping the cleaning would get the screw to do its job. Reassembled everything and now the cylinder touched the forcing cone. I loosened the screw, held vylinder to the rear, tightened screw-still a problem. The actual problem is that the cylinder turns properly, cylinder turns when dry firing but cylinder will not completley open, I have to tap it. What did I do wrong? Do I need a shim at thr front of the cylinder?

 

[dvanncvann]

Ejector rod may be loose.

 

[len917]

Ejector rod may be loose.

I think you are correct. How do I correct it?

 

[jbtrucker]

Larry Potterfield Midway USA has videos on cylinders .

 

[steelslaver]

To tighten rod

Insert 2 or 3 empty cases in chambers, Place rod in chuck and tighten chuck. Hold chuck and cylinder and turn cylinder to left as everything past the late 50s used left hand threads on rod. A drill chuck makes a good gripper for the rod. You can also use 2 pieces of heavy leather and a vice. You do not want to mar the rod.

I do not believe the rod being loose with cause the cylinder to rub barrel however.

Lets start over from the beginning.

Did you gun function correctly for you at one time?

What occurred before the initial problem? Did you disassemble or what?

Does the yoke pivot correctly if you install it without the cylinder? Try all 3 side plate screws in yoke screw position to find one that works right.

When you install rod in cylinder, small spring goes on center pin, big spring and big spring goes on small portion of collar that rides on rod body. Make 100% sure area under star and back of star is clean. Star arms should set flush where they meet cylinder. Are the 2 little pins in cylinder OK? Never got bent a bit loosening or tightening rod with out empties in chambers??

Did you look at groove and button on end of yoke pivot shaft as I asked earlier? Are they OK.?

 

[CALREB]

Im having a hard time keeping track of what is going on with your gun. The original problem sounds like you got the screws mixed up. So switching the 2 round headed screws should have fixed it. If not then you might need a new fitted yoke screw. Now if you cleaned the yoke and cylinder and now it wont close properly its probably not the extractor rod, especially if the cylinder wont seat all the way down on the yoke. A brush bristle may have broke off inside the cylinder or yoke or the channel for the yoke during cleaning and now its is binding or wont let the parts seat correctly. Take some q-tips or similar with a little oil and wipe out those areas. Believe me sometimes they are hard to see. Maybe that will help

 

[len917]

To tighten rod

Insert 2 or 3 empty cases in chambers, Place rod in chuck and tighten chuck. Hold chuck and cylinder and turn cylinder to left as everything past the late 50s used left hand threads on rod. A drill chuck makes a good gripper for the rod. You can also use 2 pieces of heavy leather and a vice. You do not want to mar the rod.

I do not believe the rod being loose with cause the cylinder to rub barrel however.

Lets start over from the beginning.

Did you gun function correctly for you at one time?

What occurred before the initial problem? Did you disassemble or what?

Does the yoke pivot correctly if you install it without the cylinder? Try all 3 side plate screws in yoke screw position to find one that works right.

When you install rod in cylinder, small spring goes on center pin, big spring and big spring goes on small portion of collar that rides on rod body. Make 100% sure area under star and back of star is clean. Star arms should set flush where they meet cylinder. Are the 2 little pins in cylinder OK? Never got bent a bit loosening or tightening rod with out empties in chambers??

Did you look at groove and button on end of yoke pivot shaft as I asked earlier? Are they OK.?

1-Functioned correctly althought cylinder was always tight.
2-yes I disassembled for cleaning. Did not remove rod.
3-I'll try pivot without the cylinder.
4-Switched sideplate screws an is now holding.

 

[len917]

Im having a hard time keeping track of what is going on with your gun. The original problem sounds like you got the screws mixed up. So switching the 2 round headed screws should have fixed it. If not then you might need a new fitted yoke screw. Now if you cleaned the yoke and cylinder and now it wont close properly its probably not the extractor rod, especially if the cylinder wont seat all the way down on the yoke. A brush bristle may have broke off inside the cylinder or yoke or the channel for the yoke during cleaning and now its is binding or wont let the parts seat correctly. Take some q-tips or similar with a little oil and wipe out those areas. Believe me sometimes they are hard to see. Maybe that will help

I'm going to re-check evefything. The cylinder closes but has trouble opening. I measured the size of the opening from forcing cone back, the cylinfer with and without shell installed.
There is room for the cylinder to enter.

 

[len917]

Removed yoke & cylinder--took apart again, cleaned again, re-installed everything and guess what? It works-as good as new.
Thanks for you help guys
Len917