Trigger Job on Rossi M68 (SW M36 Clone): Who & How? Much

Redcoat3340

Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2014
Messages
1,440
Reaction score
1,761
Location
Washington State
While searching for a slightly larger (than my 642 J frame) I came across a 3" Interarms Rossi "Champion II Model 68. Everything I could research says it's a decently made gun, pretty much a clone of the model 36, and was purchased at a very good price.

It came today but now I have to wait for it to "clear" though WA state's approval process. (Don't ask.)

The gun was tight and looked lightly fired. It was a good deal. The SA trigger was crisp and about 4+- pounds, the DA trigger seemed stiff and probably 12ish.

I'd like to get the DA smoother and about 3 pounds lighter.

My questions are: For a revolver, what does it entail? Is this a gunsmith job or something I can attempt myself (futzing around with sears and stones and stuff isn't something I'm familiar with so I am a bit reluctant that I might really screw it up)? Is there someone folks might recommend for the job (or is it pretty straightforward and any reasonably competent gunsmith [and I have a decent one I regularly use] ok to do it? And what do revolver trigger jobs cost? (Any work I've had done on triggers on my pistols has either been by BCMC here; Langdon for my PX4, and Sig factory for my Sigs.)

My other Smith revolvers all came with pretty nice triggers both DA & SA, so I guess I traded a bit of money on the purchase price for the cost of some trigger work. And of course I could just shoot the snot out of it, let the trigger work itself in and spend the money on ammo, which I'd do anyway.

(The Washington state process isn't all that bad, it just takes a week or so and I hate waiting.)
 
Register to hide this ad
As I remember, the internals are almost identical to the j-frame Smith and Wesson models, like the model 36 you mentioned. So much so, that I believe some of the parts may interchange. I'm sure any competent gunsmith would be able to modify the gun to meet your requirements.

You may even consider doing it yourself if you are familiar to the j frame internals. My only concern would be the availability of spare parts, including springs, etc.

There is a schematic on Numrich's web site if you want to take a look.
 
Last edited:
If you attempt to stone or smooth out the action yourself, just be careful as some internals are MIM (not sure about the revolver in question). MIM parts don’t always take kindly to a heavy sanding or smoothing out if I recall. Also when doing the work myself, I don’t touch a sear. A lot can go wrong quickly with that intentionally small edge. I prefer to look for contact points where the frame rubs the internals. Clean up or smooth out the sides of the frame and/or internals so they move easily and with less friction. You can accomplish much of the same with just repeated pulling of the trigger with snap caps. If that doesn’t help then you can move toward spring replacement. Which can definitely help with the weight but can impact reliability with certain ammo or primers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Like most of the S&W's, the DA pull is influenced a lot by the trigger rebound spring. If this gun is a close clone of a S&W, it might be worthwhile to get a reduced power rebound spring from Wolff gun springs.

I've settled in with using 15lb springs (factory is 18), go any lighter and the trigger return starts to get on the "glitchy" side and fails to consistently return to it's full forward position.

I wouldn't mess with any sear surfaces... as already mentioned, look for rough surfaces to smooth out, like the mainspring strut and outside of the trigger rebound slide and the frame surface it slides against.

I highly recommend Jerry Miculek's "Trigger Job" DVD, it explains a lot.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top