Taurus 856 vs J-frames

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There's likely enough curiosity on the Taurus that I thought this would be helpful for others. However, it's also in support of this thread:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...622324-would-you-buy-6-shot-38-j-frame-2.html

Mine is the Ultra-Lite, but there is no size difference between it, and the regular 856 in full-steel. Since I was going to bob the hammer, I snapped a few pics of the innards. There's quite the difference in Taurus now, vs what you're eyes are used to with a Smith. A note of caution for anyone opening their own Taurus. Do NOT try to pull the trigger with the plate off, as you can do so readily with a Smith. The rebound spring and strut will sproing loose, and you do NOT WANT THE AGONY of trying to re-assemble it.

And yes, Virginia...it takes K-frame loaders.
 

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Sorry about the dupe in the above array. Just some observations on the Taurus:

Smaller than K-frame
Trigger is not as nice as a K, but every bit as nice as a good J
Longer ejector stroke for disgorging the spent brass
Less than half the price of a decent M12

OEM grips (not those old ones, LOL) flat SUCK. They try to mimic an old Pachmayr design, but they position your hand all wrong. The worst part is how they're attached. What's wrong with the two-panels and a screw that we all love? Or slip -over with one ala Hogue? Oh no, they are pinned on with a roll-pin through the bottom of the grip frame! Combination locator pin, and attachment. Ridiculous effort with pin punch and hammer to remove them.
 
Good information, especially the pics and details on the grip.

How does the recoil compare in the Lightweight to a Model 12?
 
I no longer have a 12 in the stable. When I did, it wore the Uncle Mike's rubber 'Spegel' style boot, with exposed back-strap. That said, I'd say about par, being that those older Taurus boot-grips have the cushion at the rear. I've never found them to be sticky in a pocket, either. Indeed, if any of you have a pair you're not using, PM me to buy them from you.
 
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