put money on a 17 should I have?

79ipa

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Hi,
I put 50 on a blued 22 caliber model 17 on saturday. I wanted a 22 to shoot that looks like my 586. The shop wanted $350 for the gun which I thought was pretty okay because I paid 400 for my 586 which is in better condition. This 22 still has all the bluing although it is missing some at the crown and it seems to have been shot alot judging by the turn ring. The lockup is looser than my 586 but i'm not really sure how much more so.

I have heard that model 17 target masterpieces can shoot 1.25 inch groups at 50 yards. How well should a 17 with adjustable sights and stardard hammer and trigger shoot? The prefix on the serial number has a k in it. Is there a way to tell what my serial number stands for if I have the serial number written down?

The gunshop said that I could roll the 50 dollars on the gun over to a different gun if I change my mind. I was also looking at a 642 a 638 and a kimber 22 caliber conversion for my s and w 1911.

The small 38's would make better carry guns than my 1911 which I still like. The model 17 would make cheaper practice than my 1911 and 586. The 1911 to .22 caliber conversion kit would make my 1911 cheaper and fun to shoot. I will probably wind up buying all of these guns at some point. However I'm not sure what one I should start with. Can anyone help me out here and tell me what to buy?
 
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serial

here are the first few digits of the serial...k8110
 
According to the book, your gun was made in '68 which would make it a 17-3. Open your cylinder, and look in the cutout on the frame. It should say 17-3 above the serial number.

I have a 17-3, and it is accurate!!!

The turn, line doesn't necessarily mean that it has been fired a lot. It could be that someone just cocked and let dowm the trigger a lot to help break in the action. I do that all the time with my centerfires, and dry fire them at people I don't like on TV.:D
I never dry fire my 17, because it's a rimfire, and S&W doesn't recommend it for them according to their web site. I know a lot of guys will tell you that it's OK with Smith's, but I won't be one of them. You risk damaging the firing pin, and the rear face of the cylinder.

They're not making the original 17's any more, and I would much prefer one over any conversion kit for your 1911. I have shot guns so equipped, and was not impressed. My 17 will shoot any of them under the table.

Most every single 17 I have ever handled had some side play (rotational), so I wouldn't worry too much unless it is excessive.
 
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Man, that is a bunch of info. Let me give it a shot.

I have a 17-4 that I love, it shoots any brand ammo, shoots very accurately for a revolver, and is a fun plinker as well as a small game killing machine.

350 bucks for a 17-3 is a great deal. I see them for more than 500 buck for clunkers and as high as 6-7 hundred range for nice examples.

I went through the "I have to have a conversion kit" mode. I have learned that: cost of the kit is as much as a good Ruger mark II and you have a gun, instead of upper that is usually picky with the ammo it likes, mags are more expensive than the regular mags for the gun and most are subject to the current crummy ammo that is coming out of the factories now days (IMO). I bought a conversion for my Springfield 1911 and a glock kit for my 17 and 34. Both kits worked, but were picky about ammo, and the mags for the glock were 30 bucks
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. Lucky for me I ran across two other people that were excited to get the kits from me so I shot them for about a year at no charge. (Lucky for me.)

The 642 is a fine gun for what it does, a pocket, 15-20 yard self defense gun that you can carry, but probably won’t shoot it a ton.

My advice, get the 17-3, everyone needs a 22 and you can’t go wrong with a revolver. They are not as accurate as a semi auto 22, but can do pretty good to hold up to filling the stew pot or to fend off the rats.

Save up for the 642 or a 638 for that matter. It will serve you well as a self defense gun, you just need to practice a bunch with it the farther you want to hit with it.

If you want a 22 caliber 1911, you can get a 22 cal 1911 from a few manufactures as an entire gun offering now, I shot a Kimber; it is a nice shooter.


Hope this helps.
 
I love my 1949 pre-17. The finish is worn but that is because it has been so well used and enjoyed. When others ask about good .22's I always try to steer them toward a good k-22. You will not regret the purchase.
 
The point about the conversion kits for 1911's is a good one. The one I shot would only work with Remington Golden bullets, or Cyclones, and that was even the recommended ammo by the maker!:rolleyes:

jbouwens,

My 17-3 will out shoot the 41's it has run up against so far, and does it with any ammo except Wally World bulk Federal, while they have used Lapua match. It is freaky scary accurate with Cyclone's from Remington, as well as Yellow Jackets. I haven't ever shot any match ammo in it, so I don't know what it would do with that stuff.

I won't be parting with this one. I would like to see what it could really do with a scope mounted on it. I can't hold the sights fine enough to take full advantage of its accuracy potential.
 
It's a piece of scrap! But go ahead and buy it, and I'll give you your $350 back, plus $25 for your trouble.;)
Seriously, grab it! It's a good price and a good shooter!
 
I'm in sort of the same boat. I found a 17-3 in a local pawn shop for $279; no box or manual. The trigger guard was ugly and one, 1/2-in spot on the right side of the barrel had some rust, but no pitting. The shop let me clean the gun for better inspection since I frequently buy things there. The lockup was as tight as my 627-5 PC, trigger pull was stiff, yet smooth, and the SA pull was light and crisp. I passed on an 18-3 last night due to super-high bids, and really, at this point I'd rather spend $279 on a designated shooter in form of a revolver than buy another Mark III.
 
For $350, how could you possibly lose? Buy the gun, clean and lube it up, and enjoy shooting it. If you get tired of it, sell it for at least what you paid, probably more. I doubt that you'll get tired of it, ever.

I'm betting that if you buy this one, you'll soon be looking for another one, then a model 18, and a 617 6", and a 617 4".......so be prepared!

Lou
 
put money on a 17 should I have?

You bet you're bippy you should have.

You won't have any doubts when you get it to the range.
 
I'm afraid if I saw on in my local dealers store that I'd crap in my pants . . . and that someone else would buy it while I rushed to the bathroom to clean up the mess.

At that price, it would last in our Forum's classifieds for maybe 7-8 minutes . . . in the dead middle of a slow night.

T.
 
pick up

I picked the gun up last wednesday. I will post picks when I can. I wasn't that impressed with the accuracy of the gun with the tested federal bulk box. I was getting like 4 inch groups off hand with the gun. I can do way better with my 586. I am going to change loads and then take it out for some turkeys and squirrels tomorrow or wednesday. I did notice that the left side of the hammer slides barely touching the left side of the frame. The gun came with rubbers on. I found out why when I opened the box that the gun came in. The left grip was broken in half. I guess that someone dropped the gun at one time. Oh well if needed I will send it back to smith and wesson.

I did shoot some 30 grain loads that are supposed to go 1600 fps through it over the chronograph and found that they went 1341 which should be plenty fast. Cci mini mags went like 1061 from a claimed 1225.

Just playing with this revolver and speed loaders should make me pretty fast at reloading my 586.
 
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