I am new to reloading .38 special and in particular wadcutters. Of course you need to keep the OAL below maximum so round will not hang up in cylinder, but are there any rules regarding how far to seat the bullet? I realize seating deeper will increase pressure. Also if using the same amount of powder in a starting load, will using a .357 magnum case as opposed to a .38 special case decrease case pressure significantly assuming bullet is seated to the same depth?
.38 Special 148 grain wadcutters
- Thread starter tgwillard
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148gr wadcutters are typically mounted flush (or almost flush) with the case. Autoloaders like the Colt Mk III or the S&W 52 require it. Check out the photo in this link.
http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/AMM352-5.html
I've never loaded them in a .357 case, but it shouldn't be a problem.
http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/AMM352-5.html
I've never loaded them in a .357 case, but it shouldn't be a problem.
Amici
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True wadcutters are loaded flush with the case mouth. Don't try speedloaders with them!
I had some CAST WC's that had a little button in the center. I loaded those with the bullet shoulder flush with the case mouth; the button protrued about 1/16"
Three grains of Red Dot worked well under them.
I had some CAST WC's that had a little button in the center. I loaded those with the bullet shoulder flush with the case mouth; the button protrued about 1/16"
Three grains of Red Dot worked well under them.
Like everyone else has said, I seat the bullets flush. I use the same recipe for both .38 and .357 brass.
nitesite
Member
Hard cast wadcutters have a crimping groove just below the wide flat meplat. So to roll crimp using the groove, the bullet will protrude slightly beyond the case mouth.
Of course, you can crimp over the top of the bullet and seat them flush but the little bit of lead makes chambering in a revolver quite a bit easier.
Of course, you can crimp over the top of the bullet and seat them flush but the little bit of lead makes chambering in a revolver quite a bit easier.
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Dale53
Member
I cast my own bullets and use the H&G #251 double ended W/C. It was designed for the 52 S&W to be seated flush. However, in the revolvers, I seat the first band out (similar to "nitesite" above) and crimp on the trailing edge of the first band. I also seat the sprue up. It is a bit ugly, but that way I have perfect bases - this is helpful to accuracy. I run these a bit faster than the hollow base wadcutters as they seem to group better (well under 1" at 25 yards off a rest). I use 3.5 grs of Bullseye and lube one groove.
Seating the band out helps to true up the bullet in the throats and as "nitesite" mentions, they are a bit easier to chamber. Here is a picture of a four cavity bullet mould with the #251 H&G:
The picture is courtesy of TexasFlyboy, the authority on H&G Moulds.
Dale53
Seating the band out helps to true up the bullet in the throats and as "nitesite" mentions, they are a bit easier to chamber. Here is a picture of a four cavity bullet mould with the #251 H&G:
The picture is courtesy of TexasFlyboy, the authority on H&G Moulds.
Dale53
socal s&w
Member
The Alliant manual states:
2.7gr Bullseye for the Mod. 52. (bullet MUST be seated flush with top of case.)
2.8gr Bullseye for target loads
Yes you can use a .357 case, I believe that it's normal to drop one tenth grains more to compensate for the extra 'room' in those cases when loading for .38 target type rounds.
2.7gr Bullseye for the Mod. 52. (bullet MUST be seated flush with top of case.)
2.8gr Bullseye for target loads
Yes you can use a .357 case, I believe that it's normal to drop one tenth grains more to compensate for the extra 'room' in those cases when loading for .38 target type rounds.
Steve C
Member
Here are the 3 types of wadcutters. Solid base can be loaded like any solid base bullet to high magnum velocity and usually have a crimp groove. Hollow base WC's are for target shooting only and must be loaded to lower pressure as high pressure will expand the skirt tight in the chamber or bore either blowing out the center of the bullet or leaving the skirt in the bore to become an obstruction for the next round.
Factory loaded wad cutters are usually the hollow base type bullets and are seated flush.
Factory loaded wad cutters are usually the hollow base type bullets and are seated flush.
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shovelwrench
Member
Yes,
.357 cases will signifigantly reduce pressure/velocity, but the upside is some gain in accuracy by eliminating some bullet jump. I have proved this with a 686, DEWC seated to groove, from a ransom rest.
What we did was find the most accurate load with .38 cases, then duplicate that velocity in .357 cases (working up from our .38 load, and a little beyond to see if group improved, it did not). We were using clays, 2.2gr in 38, 2.7gr in .357, yeilding just above 700fps. This cut about an inch off this particular guns group @25yds.
Personally, if your using .357 cases I would be inclined to use very bulky powder, theres a lot of space to fill with very little powder, my buddy refused to deviate from Clays.
.357 cases will signifigantly reduce pressure/velocity, but the upside is some gain in accuracy by eliminating some bullet jump. I have proved this with a 686, DEWC seated to groove, from a ransom rest.
What we did was find the most accurate load with .38 cases, then duplicate that velocity in .357 cases (working up from our .38 load, and a little beyond to see if group improved, it did not). We were using clays, 2.2gr in 38, 2.7gr in .357, yeilding just above 700fps. This cut about an inch off this particular guns group @25yds.
Personally, if your using .357 cases I would be inclined to use very bulky powder, theres a lot of space to fill with very little powder, my buddy refused to deviate from Clays.
cmort666
Member
I generally load 148gr. .38 wadcutters to slightly below the case mouth and roll crimp over them. I use 2.7-2.8gr. of Bullseye.
I shoot a .38 Special Giles M1911 and need to do this for reliable feeding.
The same load works well in my Model 14.
I shoot a .38 Special Giles M1911 and need to do this for reliable feeding.
The same load works well in my Model 14.
shovelwrench
Member
Thats funny, I have a Giles 1911 .38special too, I run 3gr of bullseye, crimped in the groove, and it functions perfectly.
Is your finnicky about fully chambering when it starts to get dirty?
cmort666
Member
No, I just find it works the best that way, and works equally well in the Model 14.
