A pre-'64 Model 70 Winchester thread **New info 3/10/11**

M-70 Win

I've had several mostly in the pre-war vintage mainly in 22 hornet to include a hornet carbine.Now I have a 250 Savage Supergrade made in 49,which is just about at the end of the line for that configuration.
 
But could someone take a few minutes and explain to this ignorant fellow why they are so special?

Paladin85020 did a good job of laying out the details that most M-70 lovers like. But it's really the sum of all of that. In the pre-64 Model 70, a lot of design elements coincide in a way that is pretty much perfect.

Kinda like the S&W N-frame, the claw hammer, and the Ace comb.


Okie John
 
pre 64 m-70's

Have 2 pre 64 mod 70's.Don't have a reference to match s/n to date of manufacture.Hope somebody here can help.First is in 300 H&H with straight comb stock and checkered metal butt plate s/n 4058xx.The other is in 375 H&H with monte carlo stock and solid red Winchester pad s/n 4928xx.Thanks in advance for any help.Was pleased to see this thread in the forum.Was worried I was the only one who liked S&Ws and pre 64 mod 70's.
 
I only have one,,a pre-64 Carbine in 250 Savage.
I don't recall the year/mfg.
I've never shot it,,doesn't look like anyone else has either.

They're nice rifles but I tend to go for Mauser and Mannlicher sporters when it comes to bolt rifles.
 
Have 2 pre 64 mod 70's.Don't have a reference to match s/n to date of manufacture.Hope somebody here can help.First is in 300 H&H with straight comb stock and checkered metal butt plate s/n 4058xx.The other is in 375 H&H with monte carlo stock and solid red Winchester pad s/n 4928xx.Thanks in advance for any help.Was pleased to see this thread in the forum.Was worried I was the only one who liked S&Ws and pre 64 mod 70's.

This is from an internet document I copied a couple of years ago. It seems right, but I don't know the source.

4058xx = 1957
4928xx = 1960
 
Thanks Armadillo for the quick reply.Was thinking about selling the 300 H&H but because of this thread will keep it and start shooting it and the 375 H&H again.Thanks again for the help.
 
New to site

I just picked up a 1954 Model 70 in a .220 swift with an Unertl 12X scope and Unertl rings. I know of the potential of "burning" out the barrels with the swift round but this gun has very little wear and my gunsmith said it looked pristine. Any thoughts on what I should have paid?
 
I have one I hope someone here could explain. I purchased this from a trustworthy man I've known for years. He says he ordered this rifle new for his friend in the late 50's. He bought it back from the friend's widow after his death and sold it to me. The gun is supposedly unaltered, and appears so to me, as it is in immaculate condition. It is a Featherweight 243, and the serial number is 113xxx. That's too early for this configuration!!! Could Winchester have had some actions laid back and used them at a later date? Can you get a letter on them like an S&W?
IMG_1314.jpg
 
Hi all, I have a pre 64 model 70 in .243. Coupla questions: it has a heavy barrel with no sights.Is it a varmint or a target? It shoots about 2&1/2" groups at 100 yards. The rifle is in very good condition and I feel it should do better. Accurizing tips would be appreciated. thanks Norm
 
Are you sure its the gun? :) I know, it might be a little insulting coming from a stranger. But its a fair question. The next question is what brand and bullet weight are you using? Do you belong to a range, or do you know any bench rest shooters? Buy a box of 2 different brands and bullet weight ammo (WalMart for under $20 each). Then have a different shooter take them to the range on a nice day for shooting. See what kind of groups they can turn in.

What it does is eliminate the biggest variables, the shooter and the ammo. If it still underperforms, its the gun. If it closes the groups down to the 1" area, its you.
 
That featherweight I posted will shoot cloverleafs at 100 yards with 100 grain factory Remington ammo. I's suggest you try a different scope and make sure your mounts are tight before going any further.
 
I know a young man who was given a pre-64 Model 70 in .300 H&H Magnum by his grandfather. His grandfather had bought the rifle in the late 40s or early 50s, and he took really good care of it. The rifle looks new. The young man doesn't really like .300 H&H Magnum. He would rather have one in .300 Winchester Magnum. I have offered to buy him a new Winchester (or Browning, Remington, etc) in .300 Winchester Magnum in trade for his .300 H&H Magnum. He is thinking about it. I have absolutely no use for a pre-64 Winchester Model 70 in .300 H&H Magnum, but I would be more than happy to get it.
 
Are you sure its the gun? :) I know, it might be a little insulting coming from a stranger. But its a fair question. The next question is what brand and bullet weight are you using? Do you belong to a range, or do you know any bench rest shooters? Buy a box of 2 different brands and bullet weight ammo (WalMart for under $20 each). Then have a different shooter take them to the range on a nice day for shooting. See what kind of groups they can turn in.

What it does is eliminate the biggest variables, the shooter and the ammo. If it still underperforms, its the gun. If it closes the groups down to the 1" area, its you.
Mr. Burg,
I have a ruger no. 1 that will shoot bug butt groups at 100 yards so I don't think it's me. I gotta admit though that would be my first question also. I think I will try some real light bullets. My thinking is maybe the twist would be favorable to them. Since it is (I believe) a varmint model.
 
I have five of them:

1. 1946 .300 H&H has engraving and silver and gold floor plate.

2. 1955 .300 H&H unmolested in about 95%.

3. 1957 .30-06 was cutomized around the 70's and rechambered to
.300 WM. It came in a custom stock with gold plated floor plate
and trigger guard. Since the stock had a presentation plaque
embeded to the previous owner and the bottom metal was
worn. I had Robar refinish the bottom metal and put it all in a
McMillian stock.

.4 1961 .243 this one is a full custom from Yost-Bonitz. It came in a
custom laminated stock with heavy SS fluted barrel. I found this
one at Cabelas, for the price I had to buy it.

.5 1952 .308 featherweight unmolested 80%
 
I have one I hope someone here could explain. I purchased this from a trustworthy man I've known for years. He says he ordered this rifle new for his friend in the late 50's. He bought it back from the friend's widow after his death and sold it to me. The gun is supposedly unaltered, and appears so to me, as it is in immaculate condition. It is a Featherweight 243, and the serial number is 113xxx. That's too early for this configuration!!! Could Winchester have had some actions laid back and used them at a later date? Can you get a letter on them like an S&W?
IMG_1314.jpg
SO, does anyone have any ideas about this rifle? Thanks, Greg
 
Norm, for best accuracy with the M 70, the front and rear guard screws should be tight, but the one in the middle, just behind the magazine, should be fairly loose. Also if yours has a screw from the stock into the barrel, it should be loose. These things help the accuracy.
 
The date stamp on the barrel only represents the year that the barrel was made. It may or may not be when the rifle left Winchester, only the serial number will give an idea as to date of manufacture. That is not totally reliable as some numbers may have lagged behind true chronological order.
 
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