light loads in a 357, 38 vs 357
- Thread starter beagleye
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nebmike
Member
You'll get all sorts of thoughts on this. Here are mine...
I do handload using .357 cases and have loads ranging from mild with cast lead bullets, to wild with jacketed bullets. I dont use .38 cases for reloading (though I do shoot a lot of factory .38's), only because I dont want to readjust my dies every time I switch.
There is nothing wrong with using light loads in .357 cases, and a lot of folks would recommend it just to avoid the crud ring that can build up in the chambers from shooting the shorter .38 cases. Personally, I have never felt like this was an issue -- but then I also clean my guns thoroughly every time I shoot them.
An arguement the other way might center around potential accuracy issues with light loads in .357 case compared to a similar load in a .38 case, because of load density and pressure variances. I'd suspect though, that the load and gun will both outshoot the average shooter either way.
FWIW, YMMV.
I do handload using .357 cases and have loads ranging from mild with cast lead bullets, to wild with jacketed bullets. I dont use .38 cases for reloading (though I do shoot a lot of factory .38's), only because I dont want to readjust my dies every time I switch.
There is nothing wrong with using light loads in .357 cases, and a lot of folks would recommend it just to avoid the crud ring that can build up in the chambers from shooting the shorter .38 cases. Personally, I have never felt like this was an issue -- but then I also clean my guns thoroughly every time I shoot them.
An arguement the other way might center around potential accuracy issues with light loads in .357 case compared to a similar load in a .38 case, because of load density and pressure variances. I'd suspect though, that the load and gun will both outshoot the average shooter either way.
FWIW, YMMV.
badguybuster
Member
that being said you should practice some with what you carry
bmcgilvray
Member
I enjoy segregation when it comes to .38 Special and .357 Magnum and don't use .38 Special cases in my .357 Magnum revolvers. I don't think it is detrimental to shoot .38 Special ammunition in a .357 Magnum revolver if one cleans his firearms regularly.
Snapping Twig
Member
In addition to the above information, bullet jump is minimized with .357 cases.
I don't know how important it really is, but it makes a bit of sense that the less freedom the bullet has before the forcing cone the better.
5g of W231 in a magnum case under your favorite 160g bullet is a nice load.
I don't know how important it really is, but it makes a bit of sense that the less freedom the bullet has before the forcing cone the better.
5g of W231 in a magnum case under your favorite 160g bullet is a nice load.
It does not matter which you do.
IDPA/SSR revolver shooters shoot tens of thousands of .38 Special in 66s and 686s because the shorter cases are quicker and easier for speed reloads.
1. The accuracy is the same.
2. Yes, you have to clean the carbon/lead ring out of the cylinder, which is quick and easy with a "Tornado" brush available from Brownells.
3. If you put .38 loads in a .357 case, all you have to worry about is sticking a bullet if using very light .38 target loads, so just stay off minimum loads.
IDPA/SSR revolver shooters shoot tens of thousands of .38 Special in 66s and 686s because the shorter cases are quicker and easier for speed reloads.
1. The accuracy is the same.
2. Yes, you have to clean the carbon/lead ring out of the cylinder, which is quick and easy with a "Tornado" brush available from Brownells.
3. If you put .38 loads in a .357 case, all you have to worry about is sticking a bullet if using very light .38 target loads, so just stay off minimum loads.
nightshade2x
Member
I run exclusively .38 loads through my .357's (and I have alot) when doing any target/plinking/steel work, primarily 158 gr. SWC and 148 gr. DEWC's. Only time the .357's get shot is for defensive practice/hunting/fun factor...
Have fun and be safe.
Nightshade2x
Have fun and be safe.
Nightshade2x
#1 is exactly correct. The added bullet jump hurting accuracy is
theoretical only, and not observed in practice.
#3 There is more to worry about. Light loads can cause detination.
The theory is that powder level in the case is so low that when the
primer discharges, it blows over the powder charge and not through it,
leading to a radical pressure spike.
Therefore, I'd caution you to not load your .357 case at less
than 80% full, as you might do using .38 load data in a .357 case.
Joe
I hate cleaning the crud caused by shooting short cartridges out of my .357 cylinder, so I use .357 brass for everything, including my target loads.
I use the classic 2.8 gr Bullseye + 148 gr HBWC in .357 brass, works great and I don't have to scrub out my cylinder when I'm done.
I use the classic 2.8 gr Bullseye + 148 gr HBWC in .357 brass, works great and I don't have to scrub out my cylinder when I'm done.
Fishslayer
US Veteran, Absent Comrade
Gamecock;135778429#3 said:
I did a lot of reading on that subject when I started reloading. Everything I found indicates this is more a problem with slow rifle powders in underfilled bottleneck cartridges.
I suppose a seriously light load of 2400 might cause a problem, but why would anybody do that?
38SPL HV
Member
...I also use 357 Mag cases and favorite practice round is 6.0 grs Unique under 158 gr cast SWC or Speer lead SWC.
I've always light loaded 357 Magnum cases. The bullet jump thing is important in rifles, but revolvers already have a lot of bullet jump in their inherent design. The crud ring in the chambers is the biggest advantage to using Magnum length cases.
Simplicity of die adjustment might be an advantage to just using Magnum brass. Having to stock only Magnum brass might also be an advantage. My habit has been to use Magnum brass just a few times for full power loads, then retire them to reduced power load use.
Simplicity of die adjustment might be an advantage to just using Magnum brass. Having to stock only Magnum brass might also be an advantage. My habit has been to use Magnum brass just a few times for full power loads, then retire them to reduced power load use.
gwpercle
Member
Except for the safety aspect , light 357 mag. loads being mistakenly fired in a 38 special revolver , you could light load 357 mag or load +P loads in 38 special cases ...just depends on how light / heavy we loading them and how many 38 specials you have !
In the past I have loaded 357 magnum loads in 38 special cases with the Lyman #358156 cast bullet crimped in the bullets lower crimp groove...it was designed to do this . The longer loaded round is easy to spot if you pay attention to things . I never tried to load any in a 38 special .
So it can be done...but should you do it...No , just buy 357 magnum brass and light load them .
You can load 38 special +P loads in 357 magnum cases and not have to worry about wrong ammo finding its way into a 38 special.
Gary
In the past I have loaded 357 magnum loads in 38 special cases with the Lyman #358156 cast bullet crimped in the bullets lower crimp groove...it was designed to do this . The longer loaded round is easy to spot if you pay attention to things . I never tried to load any in a 38 special .
So it can be done...but should you do it...No , just buy 357 magnum brass and light load them .
You can load 38 special +P loads in 357 magnum cases and not have to worry about wrong ammo finding its way into a 38 special.
Gary
My Friend, The .357
by Skeeter Skelton
Shooting Times Magazine
June 1988 (Has light, medium and heavy load data)
My Friend, The .357
by Skeeter Skelton
Shooting Times Magazine
June 1988 (Has light, medium and heavy load data)
My Friend, The .357
My lead SWC target loads are always loaded into 357 Magnum cases for use in 357 Magnum firearms
I have been doing that since the 1970s.
I do not even bother to keep 38 Special brass cleaned and sorted.
Some folks make a big deal about the crud ring, some folks say it is a myth, some folks say just scrub that cylinder real good and it won't be an issue.
For me if I never use 38 brass, then I never have to worry about real or myth, I never have to worry about if I scrubbed clean enough. With 357 Magnum all of that simply goes away
I have been doing that since the 1970s.
I do not even bother to keep 38 Special brass cleaned and sorted.
Some folks make a big deal about the crud ring, some folks say it is a myth, some folks say just scrub that cylinder real good and it won't be an issue.
For me if I never use 38 brass, then I never have to worry about real or myth, I never have to worry about if I scrubbed clean enough. With 357 Magnum all of that simply goes away
This is a very poignant article for me, since I am a fan of the Lyman 358156. I would suspect that Skeeter's medium and heavy 357 Magnum cast loads were digested more in K frame 6 shot Smiths and N frames. Presuming that the cylinder walls of a 686+ may be a bit thinner than those of a 6 shot K frame, how safe might these loads be in a 686+?
Sorry for hijacking this thread!
