Dust cover for the 15-22

The cover is composed of two pieces. The cover door and the bottom hinge. The bottom hinge is fastened to the upper just below the ejection port by 3M auto motive double sided tape (very strong holding stuff). The two pieces fit together like a door hinge with a pin holding them together with a spring in the middle. The ends of the spring, which are torquing towards each other, are behind the two pieces (represented by the grey dotted lines). One is anchored behind the mounting tape on the bottom piece and the other presses against the inside of the cover door pushing it open. A magnet is mounted on the inside of the cover door and makes contact with the bolt, holding the door closed, until you pull on the charging handle to chamber a round, thus breaking the magnetic bond and releasing the door.
 

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Ok thanks I'm starting to think about making one but maybe slightly different and using a modified ar cover
 
For a more permanent installation, would something like this work? It would require the drilling and tapping two small holes.

cover.png
 
If you want to drill thats fine, but this is a no drill mod, which also means its removable if need be. PLus wih the 3M automotive tape, that thing may as be screwed to the upper, haha. That stuff doesnt budge
 
3M VHB is the tape to use. I saw video of street signs that were in a hurricane and the only ones that didn't fly away were the ones that were held onto the pole with VHB tape.
There is only .15 inch or 3.8mm of material to thread into, so be careful.
There is a lot more material above the ejection port and you don't have to worry about the bolt hitting a screw.
 
PainterlyShotgroup said:
I'm liking what I see. They have all different colors and patterns.

I'm going to have to order some different thicknesses and see which has the best workability-to-strength ratio.
It is going to mean possibly sacrificing my prototype to make a mold, but as long as they come out looking and working good, it will be worth it...
Click to expand...

Good luck with the Kydex. I'm glad Rustspot knew where to get it. Knifekits was were I originally saw the product, but I couldn't remember. Anyway, I hope that works better for you. Just remember, I want one when they become available. God bless.
 
kcmitch said:
How do you get the 3M tape off if you wish to remove the cover?
Click to expand...

What I find weird about the 3M tape is, once you stick it on and assuming you clean the surface properly, the only thing that will take it off is you. if you want it off, you simply (with a little effort) pull it off or use something like a putty knife to get under it and remove it. You might have to use rubbing alcohol to remove any residue that may or may not be on the rifle. It is surprisingly easy considering this tape holds up to hurricane force winds without breaking a sweat....if tape could sweat, that is...
 
Kydex

Before you destroy your prototype, check and see at what temperature the Kydex becomes pliable. You may be able to use the receiver as a mold, just bend the Kydex to fit. Or, cover the receiver with a release agent and make a plaster mold. Then heat the Kydex enough to form to the mold. Just thinking. That may give you a reusable mold. The ejection port would have to be covered with tape or something while pouring the plaster.
 
kcmitch said:
Before you destroy your prototype, check and see at what temperature the Kydex becomes pliable. You may be able to use the receiver as a mold, just bend the Kydex to fit. Or, cover the receiver with a release agent and make a plaster mold. Then heat the Kydex enough to form to the mold. Just thinking. That may give you a reusable mold. The ejection port would have to be covered with tape or something while pouring the plaster.
Click to expand...

I don't think I'll have to dismantle it any more than just removing the hinge pin and and pulling off the lower hinge and door. My biggest concern was how to make the hinge loops with the Kydex, but I figure the impression the current hinge loops make will serve as a "starter" impression for bending the plastic properly. If I do it right my process should leave my prototype perfectly intact and reusable. Of course should the Kydex casts come out better than the prototype (which is the hope) then I'll be swapping out!

I will be taking the cover off the gun, so plaster will be no where near my rifle. This is the beauty of the 3M tape, the rifle can be restored to its stock configuration. no one would be the wiser....

Right now I am working on the write up. I am doing hand drawn "instructions" to go along with the written descriptions. The drawings are 8.5 by 11 so people will be able to print them out...I aim to have these up tonight. They may not be as detailed as some would like but I will be here to answer any questions and the idea is to build on these instructions and make them better as I go...

Sit tight, they are coming :) !
 
I think the easiest and cheapest way to do these at home, assuming you want to start a production run, would be to fab up a vacuum table, they are pretty simple to make, you could use perf board (Masonite) build a wood frame for it and make a port to connect a shop vac. Make a frame to clamp plastic into. Make a mold and then put the plastic in the oven get it up to temp and remove it and suck it down over the mold on the vacuum forming table. If you make numerous molds on one slab you could do numerous parts at one time.
 
@ Brett248vista: lol, I think you are right. However, I think a cool alternative would be to take a cheap toaster oven, use a hole saw to make a vacuum port in the bottom to connect a shop-vac to, heat the plastic up as it sits over the molds and let her rip! I just cringe at the thought of trying to transfer hot, pliable plastic sheets from an over to a vacuum box...but maybe I'm just chicken. Great idea though and I will see what I can do...By the way, if I pull this off, would you do me the honor of doing a review if I send you one?
 
Painterly,

Yeah I hear you about the plastic, you do have to be careful when transferring from the stove to the vacuum board, nearly molten plastic on the hands or arms would not be good. I would suggest a pair of OvGlove's :)

I would absolutely love to do a review for you. I haven't shot any videos in a while! I've been in "winter slacker mode" :)
 
Just ordered some Kydex. I am going to create the mold this weekend...we'll see what happens.
 
How about using clay or Fimo Link for the mold of your receiver?

The Fimo is oven hardening at ~230F and you can get it at Michael's Jo-Anne's Fabrics or other similar stores. After it hardens, its like solid plastic.

All you would have to do is apply it over your receiver, build it up as much as you want, then carefully remove it. Then bake it for for a little bit.

Now that I think about it, I think it would be possible to make the cover out of this stuff.

Just an idea.

fimo1.jpg
 
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I've worked with fimo and I have to say I'm not a big fan. It seems to be more for crafty, jewelry kind of stuff...
 
What do you think of mounting the hinge above the ejection port?
That way when it flips up, it could act like a second brass deflector for lefties.
 
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