OP
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Definitely doable. There was talk earlier between industrialfish and I about having the whole thing mount to the picatinny rail.
Dust cover for the 15-22
- Thread starter PainterlyShotgroup
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Definitely doable. There was talk earlier between industrialfish and I about having the whole thing mount to the picatinny rail.
tacticool22
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But then you lose valuable space on the upper for optics and whatnot. If you attach it just like you would below the port, but above it, you don't lose any rail and maybe acts like a secondary brass deflector if it is stopped from going flat against the upper.
OP
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Well, yeah I see your point and it's a good point, I guess the idea then was combining it with a riser for secondary optics.
But yes, one could absolutely mount a dust cover above the ejection port and have it kill two birds with one stone by also functioning as a brass deflector.
Do you shoot left handed? I do.
Are you thinking of fabricating something?
But yes, one could absolutely mount a dust cover above the ejection port and have it kill two birds with one stone by also functioning as a brass deflector.
Do you shoot left handed? I do.
Are you thinking of fabricating something?
tacticool22
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I shoot left handed only for practice. This is one project I am thinking of staying out of.
I thought about the dust cover when the rifle first got here, but I wasn't sure of the market. I can machine, stamp, fab or injection mold the covers, but the investment is pretty substantial, so for now the current expert needs to run with it. With the number of replies to this post I would say you have a great start for a customer base.
I thought about the dust cover when the rifle first got here, but I wasn't sure of the market. I can machine, stamp, fab or injection mold the covers, but the investment is pretty substantial, so for now the current expert needs to run with it. With the number of replies to this post I would say you have a great start for a customer base.
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CPTBeaker
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OP
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Well, here is the first pass at the mold for the cover door. I am thinking that I might continue to use sheet metal for the bottom hinge. So far as I can see, it is the simplest way to handle the bottom hinge. The Kydex should get here early next week so I will start trying to form these...
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CPTBeaker
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Not Fimo, but how about JB Stick?....Just another idea.
I did a quick test with this stuff. I took about 1 min to shape this. I was mainly concerned about strength once cured and not the shape so much. The working time for this stuff is about 8 min before you can no longer shape it. You could pre-make some small wooden stamps to help shape in the ridges and general look before it gets too hard. I obviously didn't shape in the part where the pin would pass through. The pin hole could be carefully drilled after the fact using a small drill press. This stuff can be sanded, drilled, filed, painted, etc. after it's hard to get the final desired look.
Strength isn't a problem..
The cover and bosses could be fabricated and painted flat black. The bosses could be attached with 3M tape.
Second try. I spent ~ 15 minutes on this one and didn't take my time with it. Someone with more skill and patience could do much better.
I did a quick test with this stuff. I took about 1 min to shape this. I was mainly concerned about strength once cured and not the shape so much. The working time for this stuff is about 8 min before you can no longer shape it. You could pre-make some small wooden stamps to help shape in the ridges and general look before it gets too hard. I obviously didn't shape in the part where the pin would pass through. The pin hole could be carefully drilled after the fact using a small drill press. This stuff can be sanded, drilled, filed, painted, etc. after it's hard to get the final desired look.
Strength isn't a problem..
The cover and bosses could be fabricated and painted flat black. The bosses could be attached with 3M tape.
Second try. I spent ~ 15 minutes on this one and didn't take my time with it. Someone with more skill and patience could do much better.
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OP
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Dude! That looks better than mine! Nice job! That was going to be a question I was going to ask was if people would want a design closer to the real thing or a design like the one I made? That JB Weld stuff looks promising for sure, I might have to try my own...Good work CPTBeaker!
your molded hinge looks very similar to some aluminum hinge that i use at work every day. Looks like your on the right track. this is why i cannot wait to get my own machine at home, LOTS of stuff i can make, oe make to my liking. having a trade is an awesome thing.
CPTBeaker
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Got tired of goofin' around.
I fabricated one out of Delrin.
I need to get a spring, magnet, and some 3M tape.
I fabricated one out of Delrin.
I need to get a spring, magnet, and some 3M tape.
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Citoriplus
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Looks great, have you tried to use a ball point pen spring?
Bend the ends straight and Ta Da you have a spring.
A rubberized refrigerator magnet cut to fit the ejection port and glued to the cover should do the trick for a magnet.
Any thought of making more I would take a couple of those.
I think Brownells or Midway sells AR dust cover springs for about $1 each or three for about $2.50.
Bend the ends straight and Ta Da you have a spring.
A rubberized refrigerator magnet cut to fit the ejection port and glued to the cover should do the trick for a magnet.
Any thought of making more I would take a couple of those.
I think Brownells or Midway sells AR dust cover springs for about $1 each or three for about $2.50.
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Looking good! How did you go about fabricating it? How hard is delrin to work with?
CPTBeaker
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Citoriplus
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Very nicely done, just wish I had the tools to do it as well as you have.
GeoffSFAs10
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Very nice. All of these are looking very nice.
Brett248Vista
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wow there is a lot of ingenuity in this thread! You guys are doing a bang up job! I want one now 
CPTBeaker
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GeoffSFAs10
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Looks awesome dude!! I think the plastic look of that cover fits with the overall look of the rifle very nicely. What is the Derlin stuff you speak of? Where do you get it?
EezyBeezy
Member
Nice work! almost looks factory. Any way to make the bar flush with the outside edges of the base? I just think it will look cleaner..
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