Novice question about a reloading equipment and components

[fiodorpugach]

Hello, I need an advice. I just bought the new S&W 500 4"; and I'd like to try some custom loads. I've never tried reloading of the handgun cartridges. I did some shotgun's 25 years ago, but it was all-manual technique (if was a fun though). Cabelas.com is currently running the free shipping promotion; so I decided to purchase some reloading equipment. But sorry my stupidity – I have no idea what do I need!
1. I need some basic cheapest kit, but I need the full kit (currently I have nothing);
2. I'm going to re-use brass, so I will need to extract primers;
3. I don't need the fast automated reload, I'm not going to reload hundreds cartridges at once, and I can spend some extra time;
4. I don't need some special convenient features, but I need reliability;
5. I will never reload anything but 500 S&W – that is it;
6. The kit should be compact; I'm limited in space – too many hobbies, to many things…
Experts, please give me some recommendations!
Also is the better place to purchase it than cabelas.com with the current free shipping? They are good in customer service and returns.

 

[thearborbarber]

I cut my teeth on the Lee challenger anniversary kit.

Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Anniversary Kit - MidwayUSA

 

[snw19_357]

So you need a press and everything?

1) Lee is inexpensive but not cheap. My Lee press is 25 years old and has loaded -------s of rounds. They also make up caliber kits, get the press and dies, etc. for one cartridge.
2) I like the turret press. It isn't an automatic/progressive but you can have all of the dies set in one turret and change between the dies quick and easy.
3) Again, I have loaded ------- rounds over the years and it has never let me down.
4) For now.
5) No bigger than most single stage presses.

Not an expert but I reload every round I fire and have been since I bought my first firearms.

 

[fiodorpugach]

Thank you for your advices; I found that Lee is good and not expensive brand. I ordered all these:

https://www.cabelas.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=731940&categoryId=0&parentCategoryId=0&subCategoryId=0&indexId=0&itemGUID=56b0c124ac1070534fa367191618fbca&destination=%2Fuser%2Forder_details.cmd%3Fid%3D%2FIOx49gYz7KbY75QmpNe4A%3D%3D%26key%3D346c0209ac107054142abb861e8bdf0d
https://www.cabelas.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=731713&categoryId=0&parentCategoryId=0&subCategoryId=0&indexId=0&itemGUID=56b0c119ac1070534fa367191fc191e0&destination=%2Fuser%2Forder_details.cmd%3Fid%3D%2FIOx49gYz7KbY75QmpNe4A%3D%3D%26key%3D346c0209ac107054142abb861e8bdf0d
https://www.cabelas.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=741082&categoryId=0&parentCategoryId=0&subCategoryId=0&indexId=0&itemGUID=56b0c128ac1070534fa367195ca8149c&destination=%2Fuser%2Forder_details.cmd%3Fid%3D%2FIOx49gYz7KbY75QmpNe4A%3D%3D%26key%3D346c0209ac107054142abb861e8bdf0d
https://www.cabelas.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=741209&categoryId=0&parentCategoryId=0&subCategoryId=0&indexId=0&itemGUID=56b0c12cac1070534fa36719464d47f9&destination=%2Fuser%2Forder_details.cmd%3Fid%3D%2FIOx49gYz7KbY75QmpNe4A%3D%3D%26key%3D346c0209ac107054142abb861e8bdf0d
https://www.cabelas.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=705252&categoryId=0&parentCategoryId=0&subCategoryId=0&indexId=0&itemGUID=56b0c131ac1070534fa367192cf9d030&destination=%2Fuser%2Forder_details.cmd%3Fid%3D%2FIOx49gYz7KbY75QmpNe4A%3D%3D%26key%3D346c0209ac107054142abb861e8bdf0d

Am I good now to start reloading, or I need something else? I know I will need primers, powder and bullets. What's else?
Thank you for your help!

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I know you said Cabela's has free shipping but the savings you will get from buying from Kempf is worth it. They have a Lee Classic 4 Hole Turret Press Kit for $177 including a set of dies. I highly recommend you buy both "upgrades" for a total of $22 which are the both primer tools and the Pro Powder Measure. The Pro Powder measure is well worth the price as is the Classic Turret press over the Deluxe Turret press. (total of $199)

Add a scale, tumbler, calipers and components and you're pretty much set up to load.

 

[Skip Sackett]

First off, welcome to the forum. I noticed some things in your "language" structure that may mean that English is not your first language. Where are you? If I am wrong, please forgive me. Sometimes I read more into things that are really there.

At any rate, what ArchAngel has said is good advice. You will get a lot of "opinion" on this issue. "Single stage" versus "progressive" for a beginner is the oldest argument going on reloading forums, bar none!

The Lee Classic Cast Turret press is the best of both worlds and for a beginner, it will suit you very well.

The absolute first thing you need is a good manual, period. I would suggest the current Lyman. Read the front of it before you try to load 1 round. Others have suggested "The ABC's of Reloading" for beginners. It may be a good choice, never have read it but..............

There is always, youtube.com too. Lee has some reloading videos on their site too. Well worth watching. RCBS also has videos. They will help a lot.

Along with the manual, a "kit" will need to include a scale, press, dies, powder measure device of some sort, dies, a kinetic bullet puller, priming device (hand held or on the press like the Lee Turret) and components; bullets, powder, primers.

At any rate, again, welcome to the "best" part of the forum!

 

[Carnage_7]

For loading the .500 you really should have purchased the Lee Classic Turret-it is built like a rock and can handle the .500 cases. I am not so sure about the Lee Breech reloader you purchased. If you can change your order I would.

 

[Steve in Vermont]

I've just returned to reloading recently and found I forgot more than I remembered. A couple of recommendations. Get a good scale. Improper powder loads are dangerous and a good scale will prevent this. I use a RCBS 505 and like it. Real simple and easy to use. Read your manual completely before even starting. Search this forum. It's literally a gold mine of information from people with 20 - 30 years experience. Don't hurry any task. Take your time. Lastly, ask questions. No-one will make fun of even the most basic question (found this out through experience). Welcome to reloading and good luck.

 

[Maximumbob54]

If you are really only going to reload the one caliber and you aren't looking for high volume I would use a hand priming tool over any prime on press method. And I would use a good cast iron single stage press. With a hand primer you can feel the primer going in and from the feel know if there are any problems. Also, hand priming seems to give the most consistent seating that I have done. I use the RCBS that you need a shell holder for. I would buy the square tray for it instead of using the round one but it still works fine with the round. I like the Lee dies for the price vs. quality but I think you can get much more precise loads with RCBS or other dies. The Lee dies use the rubber O rings to hold and I'm not big on that. I like the lock nuts for adjusting on the RCBS but I much prefer the Hornady lock rings for the dies themselves. The Hornady rings have a flat cut on the sides and don't use a set screw to hold the threads, they clamp tight with a screw. But the Lee dies are the cheapest setup and offer a powder through die and add a shell holder with each set of dies. And it's hard to beat the RCBS warrantee. I keep trying to pay for the few things I lose or break and they just keep sending them to me.

 

[Mike Bloh]

Hello and welcome,

I have not reloaded this caliber so my responses will be speculative and general.

Do as much research as possible on reloading this caliber, more references are better than few. Invest in several reloading manuals.
I would suggest starting with Lee reloading equipment. Deal direct rather than with retailers. (Lee Precision, Inc. Reloading Tools and Equipment).
The most accurate scale that you can afford. I don't suggest using "dippers".
You'll need the dies (~$40.00/Lee) and a
(Primer removal die comes with the kit.)
A Press
If loading one caliber only a single station press rather than a turret. Insure that you get a closed ("D" press) rather than an open ("C") press. A hand press may be a challenge to resize for these cases

I'm unsure if you'll need a case lube and case lube pad or similar case prep set-up. You may find that cases are easier to resize if properly lubed.
Clean and lubed cases will also add life to you die set. Resizing dirty, unlubed cases can cause scratching of the case(s) and dies. (Ultimately your uncleaned, unlubed case(s) will stick and sieze in the die. This occurs at the time when its most inconvenient.)
Case maintenance tools (e.g. manual primer hole tool, case length tools, etc.).
A primer installer.
Most of this and more is available in the Lee 50th Anniversary Kit (~$143.00)
So you can get in for $200.00 or so to start, for equipment.

You'll also need a Vernier Caliper to measure case/cartridge length and diameters, bullets, primers, powder, cases, a couple of plastic cartridge boxes and, the most important item, a log book. Into this you'll record all of your loading data and the results.

I purchased the above kit when I started reloading 20 years ago and still use it. Even though I have an inexpensive RCBS digital scale, I still use my Lee Precision manual scale that came with the kit.
You may want to invest in a electric Case Cleaning Machine and related cleaning media.
If you really get into it, you may want to consider casting and lubing you own lead bullets, but that's probably down the road.

If your experience is like mine, then case preparation will be the bigger part of your labor. Case length can be an issue in larger calibers like this one. Once the cases are "good" then the reloading part goes very quickly. Create a workflow that all but eliminates the possibility of errors.
Take your time, start low and work your loads "up", make low numbers of "batches" until you achieve the results you're looking for. Then you can create larger batches. Record your efforts in your log.

Hope it helps.

 

[fiodorpugach]

Thank you for all your comments and advices! Now I have some initial understanding about the equipment and the process. I'm only still unclear about cases cleaning. Do I really need some special tumbler and tumbling media; or I can use some common cleaning techniques?

 

[Maximumbob54]

A good tumbler with walnut preferred or corn cob not so preferred is the common cleaning method. But a Lee (or similar) universal depriming die and use that to get rid of the used primer. Then tumble. There are polishing additives you can use to enhance the cleaning and polishing of the walnut. Not a need but a good desired item. Carbide lets you resize without case lube. Some do it anyways but I don't. If you buy steel dies that don't have the carbide sleeve then you need the lube for sure. You can buy the bottle type and pad to soak and roll or the newer spray on type. I just buy carbine and avoid it all. One minor thing about the sizing die: The entry point has a certain amount of flair to allow the brass better entry. More flare is less chance of crushing brass, but you size it less at full stroke. It's very minor but some people go ga-ga over the minor details. My RCBS dies have minimal flare and I have crushed the brass a couple of times when it wasn't lined up perfectly on the shell holder. attention to detail would have caught them both, but both times I was "in the reloading zone" with the monotony of it. That's a good time for a break by the way... If you do decide to use lube read the minimum use of it or you can ruin brass with too much of it.

I will cut to the chase here. Go buy and read The ABC's of Reloading. I bought mine over Amazon.com and keep rereading it from time to time. every reloader should have a copy.

 

[bigshot500]

You dont need to tumble brass, it serves zero purpose aside from making it shiny and pretty.

 

[fiodorpugach]

But do I need to remove a propellant residual from inside? Or it's possible to leave it 'as is' and just mechanically remove the big particles? I don't need the shiny brass at all, but I need the good load.

 

[John Ross]

But do I need to remove a propellant residual from inside? Or it's possible to leave it 'as is' and just mechanically remove the big particles? I don't need the shiny brass at all, but I need the good load.

No. Wipe cases off with a rag.

 

[fiodorpugach]

Questions about components for 500 S&W

OK, all equipment is on the way and I will have it shortly. For cleaning I found that and will give it a try:
Cabela's: Iosso® Case Cleaner - 1 Gallon

Now I'm thinking about components. And again I have some questions:
1. What primers should I use to reload the recently bought 500 S&W ammo? Internet says "Large Rifle", but I found at least 3 different Large Rifle primers - 8-1/2 Large Rifle (Winchester), 8-1/2 Large Rifle Mag.(Winchester), 9-1/2 Large Rifle (Remington). What will be correct for 500 S&W? What is the best brand?
2. What is the best powder choice providing I will use it ONLY for 500 S&W with 4" barrel? Internet says "Hodgdon Smokeless Powder H110", but may be something will be better for 4" barrel?
3. Where can I purchase the most inexpensive FMJ 500 S&W bullets for target shooting (not for hunting, but only for paper)?
Thank you very match in advance for any comments!

 

[Steve in Vermont]

Go to the "Tag" section at the bottom of these posts and open up "tumbler". Lots of good info, including a post from KF9VH dated 1-26-11 "Is there another option to tumbling?". I use this and it works. I mix the brass and components in a gallon jug and shake/roll it around. I decap my brass with a Lee Depriming Die and clean before sizing. Also, if I find the primer hole looks dirty I use a Q Tip and some rubbing alcohol. A couple of turns and it's as good as new.

 

[BobR1]

For a Manual I would get the LYMAN Third Edition Pistol & Revolver Handbook to start with. Starting on Page 100 we have a 4 page article on reloading the 500 S&W. It has loads from lite to heavy. Cast and jacketed.

Primers: Rifle or handgun may depend on your brass. Hornady brass may be still cut for Large Pistol Primers. Under 46,000 psi loads should do fine with pistol primers. I would go with CCI or Winchester. Skip Federal, as they are normally the softest.

For Soft Shooting Loads:

Powder: The plinking load listed in the Lyman Manual is a 350 grain XTP over 11.0 grains of Tite Group for 986 fps from an 8-3/8 barrel.

Reloading Equipment:
Press: Lee Classic Cast Single Stage (A Very Nice press for the $$)
Dies: RCBS Carbide
Priming Tool: Lee or RCBS Hand Priming Tool
Scales: 505 has always been a good choice. Cheaper ones will probably get you by. Make sure they have a magnetic damper.
Shell Holders: Lee NOTE: The Lee Press and Lee priming tool take different shell holders.
Lee Powder Dipper Kit to get your powder charge close on the scales.
Powder Trickler to get the scales balanced with your powder charge.

I would probably do some searching for a load using Unique powder myself. For bullets I think Berry makes a plated 50. If you reved it out much, you might need a C&H canalure tool to make an indent to crimp the case into.
If you go with cast bullets you might want to bring the weight up some. Short (aka Lite Weight) bullets with a huge flat point does not make for an accurate cast load.

480 Ruger Loading Info for comparison:
My all round plinking load for my 480 Ruger is a 400 grain cast over 7.5 grains of Unique. This is a soft shooting load in my 480 Super Red Hawk. I am sure it would shoot side to side on an average deer. It will really mess up armodillos, and poison snakes. My hunting load is a healthy dose of AA#9 under the same 400 grain cast bullet. The Unique load is much more pleasant to shoot.

Do a little research on Lite loads for the 500. You do not need heavy loads for plinking.

 

[fiodorpugach]

Is anybody tried faster powder for S&W 500 with the short 4" barrel (actually 3" without compensator)? Most reloading manuals refer to long barrels (BBL around 10") and H110, Lil'Gun or 296 powders. I have a filing that for the short barrel faster powder should be used. Experts, please advise!

 

[bigshot500]

stick with 110 and you will be fine..

Is anybody tried faster powder for S&W 500 with the short 4" barrel (actually 3" without compensator)? Most reloading manuals refer to long barrels (BBL around 10") and H110, Lil'Gun or 296 powders. I have a filing that for the short barrel faster powder should be used. Experts, please advise!