642 Action Job

bassoneer

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Read my Update on Page 3 with solution to this dilemma. It was not what I thought it would be, but very interesting.


I have a model 642 .38 Special (no IL) and it is a very good gun to carry. However, the trigger pull on this gun has been awful since I got it a couple of years ago. My friend bought one at the same time as me, and we both took them to a gun smith in Knoxville (Predator Custom Shop) and had an action job done...they replaced some springs and said they would smooth out any rough machining surfaces. Well, it is greatly improved, and a little lighter than before, but still does not compare to my older guns (both 642's that had action jobs came back better, but not as smooth as say, my 640-1). It's not even in the same ball park with the smoothness of the older guns. My question...is there anything else I can do to make the trigger smoother (not lighter...smoother, so it doesn't stick)? When I shoot, the trigger doesn't pull back smoothly...it seems to stick and jerk when I go very slowly (as my grandfather taught me). I am aiming for the target, but at the last second it pulls to the right because I have to jerk the trigger to get it to move that last bit. I don't think it is the number of pounds on the trigger pull, nor do I think it is the length of travel...I think it is just not a smooth trigger. I have been thinking about taking it apart and using some oil on the parts that touch, but I would rather not...what do the 642 experts advise?

Thanks, B
 
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Definately not an expert. Recently had an action job on my 642. It is much smoother and slightly lighter. The gunsmith also polished the trigger itself, the edges were very sharp. The other thing which gets to your question is that it appears the smith did lube the inside components well. I have noticed a bit of oil coming out near the trigger.
 
I had virtually the same experience. My solution was...I sold the 642 and returned to using my Chief's Special.
 
I'm not an expert either, but can relate the following experience from my J frame collection...I have a Model 432 PD, an older model 642, and an older model 60. The 432 has MIM hammer and trigger. The comparable designed (Centennial - concealed hammer) 642 and the exposed hammer Model 60 have blued steel hammer and triggers. I have taken all three apart and carefully and lightly stoned them to remove any burrs, and lightly lubricated them. As a result, the trigger pulls on the Model 60 and Model 642 are considerably smoother and lighter than on the Model 432. One of my planned projects, as soon as my broken arm heals, is to obtain a blued steel trigger and hammer for the Model 432 to see if it makes a difference.

Best of luck,

Dave
 
I would recommend is talking to the gunsmith that did the work.

Also, with a new gun, dry fire it at least 1000 times, clean and lube before doing any work on the gun. I actually prefer a stock gun that has been shot/dry fired a lot vs. a modified gun (especially one that has a very light rebound spring).
 
I would recommend is talking to the gunsmith that did the work.

Also, with a new gun, dry fire it at least 1000 times, clean and lube before doing any work on the gun. I actually prefer a stock gun that has been shot/dry fired a lot vs. a modified gun (especially one that has a very light rebound spring).

I should have mentioned that I've had the gun for two years and shot it a lot already...didn't get better over that period of time. Also, the trigger pull is not that much lighter...it is still heavier than any other gun I have...that's not the issue. The travel distance isn't the issue. The only issue is it feels "crunchy" in places. None of my old guns do that. I still like the gun because of it's size and I added Crimson Trace grips about 6 months ago. It is a long term investment for me as a carry gun and I depend on it almost every day. It would just be nice if it had a smoother trigger pull. And it is, now that I've had a professional gun smith do an action job. I just think the parts in this gun may not be capable of providing the same smoothness as one of my old guns. Just wondering if oiling the inside parts that come in contact would make a difference...B
 
Google Sand Burr Gun Ranch. Check out their site. Then call them. Ashleigh will answer as she runs the shop but see if you can speak to Denny who does the 'smithing. He will give you a straight answer on what might work best.

Denny has tuned one M10 for me and I am pleased with the work.
 
I should have mentioned that I've had the gun for two years and shot it a lot already...didn't get better over that period of time. Also, the trigger pull is not that much lighter...it is still heavier than any other gun I have...that's not the issue. The travel distance isn't the issue. The only issue is it feels "crunchy" in places. None of my old guns do that. I still like the gun because of it's size and I added Crimson Trace grips about 6 months ago. It is a long term investment for me as a carry gun and I depend on it almost every day. It would just be nice if it had a smoother trigger pull. And it is, now that I've had a professional gun smith do an action job. I just think the parts in this gun may not be capable of providing the same smoothness as one of my old guns. Just wondering if oiling the inside parts that come in contact would make a difference...B

Two words, or one...depending on preference:

Wilson Combat, or Wolff.

Custom-Tune® Spring Kit | S&W J Frame-Wilson Combat

Springs for SMITH & WESSON J FRAME Revolvers

Together with a light application of Gunslick grease, You'll enjoy a lighter/smoother action.
 
Two words, or one...depending on preference:

Wilson Combat, or Wolff.

Custom-Tune® Spring Kit | S&W J Frame-Wilson Combat

Springs for SMITH & WESSON J FRAME Revolvers

Together with a light application of Gunslick grease, You'll enjoy a lighter/smoother action.

Also should have mentioned...he did replace the springs with Wolff springs. Made a difference...it's better than before, but just not what I expected from an "action job". I may be expecting too much...Thanks for all the replies, B
 
Ask if he stoned the inside too. There's a great Youtube video that shows what to stone and what NOT to stone. My son and I just did my 642 and M&P 340 - WOW, what a difference! Look at the video and do it yourself if it wasn't done.

Also, if you know of anyone looking for a home in Knoxville in the Clinton Hwy/Merchants Rd area, let me know. I have one with over an acre of land that I'd like to sell since my wife and I now live in Northwest Georgia.
 
Maybe you should give Predator a call The 'smith who did
the work originally won't want an imperfect example of his efforts
being out there. A lot of his business probably comes from
word-of-mouth advertising. Give him a call...
Good luck, TACC1.
 
I should have mentioned that I've had the gun for two years and shot it a lot already...didn't get better over that period of time. Also, the trigger pull is not that much lighter...it is still heavier than any other gun I have...that's not the issue. The travel distance isn't the issue. The only issue is it feels "crunchy" in places. None of my old guns do that. I still like the gun because of it's size and I added Crimson Trace grips about 6 months ago. It is a long term investment for me as a carry gun and I depend on it almost every day. It would just be nice if it had a smoother trigger pull. And it is, now that I've had a professional gun smith do an action job. I just think the parts in this gun may not be capable of providing the same smoothness as one of my old guns. Just wondering if oiling the inside parts that come in contact would make a difference...B


Is this the only J frame you have? Just wondering as a J will never feel like a K or N.
 
For a CCW gun I'd be very discriminating w/r to what I had done to it and who I'd let do it.

How's it feel if you don't pull it very, very slow as you seem to be doing? I'm not sure what you or grandpa consider very slow, but I'd practice with it like you'd use it - which isn't very slow.

How's the trigger feel and what's the accuracy like with a proper smooth single-stroke brisk double-action pull?

If it's truly gritty maybe you just need to clean and lube the innards???
 
I'm a total gunsmith neophyte but still managed to successfully install the Apex J frame kit, and it lightened the pull of my 642.

https://apextactical.com/store/product-info.php?pid49.html

I think it's a little unfair sometimes to compare a new or newer revolver to an older revolver, as that older revolver has been shot for decades, and will have smoothed out because of those thousands of trigger pulls.
 
I installed the Apex kit in my 442 also and it made a big difference.

I had already shot it a good bit and dry fired it a lot more and the kit made for a much smoother and lighter trigger pull and still 100% reliable.
 
For a CCW gun I'd be very discriminating w/r to what I had done to it and who I'd let do it.

How's it feel if you don't pull it very, very slow as you seem to be doing? I'm not sure what you or grandpa consider very slow, but I'd practice with it like you'd use it - which isn't very slow.

How's the trigger feel and what's the accuracy like with a proper smooth single-stroke brisk double-action pull?

If it's truly gritty maybe you just need to clean and lube the innards???

You're right. If I pull the trigger quickly it seems very smooth. It is only when pulling slowly (i.e., aiming and taking my time with a target) that I feel a little snag here and tere. I also wonder if I should just take the side plate off and clean/lube...B
 
Is there any truth about the cowboy action shooting guys taking the side plates off of their revolvers and filling full of toothpaste then dry firing to hone/smooth the internals?
 
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