Arthury
Member
As many of you may already know, you can buy an Apex USB kit to replace the original Safety Plunger (SP) to achieve this.
What is causing the grittiness?
In celebration of July 4th, I shall share with you how this can be done in less than 30mins.
Tools needed
Disclaimer/WARNING: This posting is for informational purpose only. If you attempt to do this, you may lose your S&W warranty and may incur risks that can cause serious injuries/death. Do it at your own risks.
Here's what I did to mine:
When you're done polishing that SP, it should have a mirror shine.
After I re-installed everything back, my trigger is now smooth and has lost that grittiness. Remember, you are only removing the grittiness. The trigger travel distance has not changed. If you want a gun for competition, you will still need to get the Apex competition hard sear and the shorter striker spring to lighten the trigger.
What is causing the grittiness?
- If we look into what is causing the grittiness, we will realize that the flat surface of the SP that will be in contact with the trigger bar activator has small tiny concentric ring-like ribs on it. Those ribs are the ones that produce the grittiness. All you need to do is to polish those rings away.
- Next, if look carefully, you will see that the circular edge of this same top surface has a 90 degree abrupt drop to the cylindrical edge. You will need to polish the abruptness on the circular edge away so that the edges are not 90 degree but a smooth and more gradual curve drop to the cylindrical vertical edge. This way, when the trigger activator moves across the mirror surface to the edge, that smooth curve will give it a better glide.
In celebration of July 4th, I shall share with you how this can be done in less than 30mins.
Tools needed
- A small table vice
- Small hammer
- Flat edge metal file used to knock the rear sight out
- Automative boy work smoothening block
- Automotive body work scratch remover (smallest grain)
- a couple of pieces of cloth
Disclaimer/WARNING: This posting is for informational purpose only. If you attempt to do this, you may lose your S&W warranty and may incur risks that can cause serious injuries/death. Do it at your own risks.
Here's what I did to mine:
- Remove the slide, like the way you do for a field striping/cleaning
- Wrap your slide with a cloth before you clam it on your vice so that the vice will not mar the surface of your slide
- Remove the SP per the Apex YouTube video to install their USB. Note that if this is your first time sliding off the rear sights, it may require several strokes of your hammer to even shift it 1/8", so wrap whatever you are using to hammer the rear sight with some kind of cloth so that you will not destroy the surface of your rear sight.
- Remove the SP and polish that surface with an automotive body work polishing block. Be gentle with the polishing and check often to see that your are polishing only the rings away. You want to do this slow so that you are not taking too much off. The intention is to only remove the tiny concentric ring ribs without changing the size of the actual SP. In fact, if you feel uncomfortable about taking off too much, you can just take off enough so that the rings are barely there. That's good enough. You really do not need to completely rub off the rings.
- After you remove the rings, polish it to a high shine using a fine granularity automotive scratch-remover (like Meguiar). This step will make you proud after you are done. I can see my face on its mirror-like shine.
- Re-install the SP back following the reverse procedural steps
When you're done polishing that SP, it should have a mirror shine.
After I re-installed everything back, my trigger is now smooth and has lost that grittiness. Remember, you are only removing the grittiness. The trigger travel distance has not changed. If you want a gun for competition, you will still need to get the Apex competition hard sear and the shorter striker spring to lighten the trigger.
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