Crimping hand gun rounds

Ratbelly

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Is it necessary to crimp all handgun reloads, or is there a "cut off" between smaller and larger rounds? The only thing I have reloaded for hand gun is 500 mag, but now I'm going to work on 44 and 41 magnum. Thanks guys
 
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With all "heavy" calibers, a firm crimp is needed to prevent bullet "jump" on recoil. One locked up cylinder will show you why. A consistant crimp also improves round consistancy.
 
Crimping is the way to go, plus the feature is built into your seating dies so its not an extra step. Just make sure you trim all you cases to the same length otherwise you may run into problems.
 
Crimping??

Some pistol cases are roll crimped (38 Special), others are taper crimped (45 ACP).
 
Heavy recoiling rounds used in revolvers need to be crimped to prevent the cases from being pulled off the bullets as the gun recoils. The cylinder acts like an inertia type bullet puller because the rim of the cases rest against the back of the cylinder. Autoloader rounds need a crimp to prevent the bullet from being forced back into the case while it is being fed into the chamber. If the bullets get forced back into the case pressure will be increased because the case volume decreases due to the bullet moving back into the case. I'll let somebody eles explain the different types of crimps and why they are used.
 
Is it necessary to crimp all handgun reloads, or is there a "cut off" between smaller and larger rounds? The only thing I have reloaded for hand gun is 500 mag, but now I'm going to work on 44 and 41 magnum. Thanks guys


Short answer. Yes. Crimp just like for your 500 mag.
 
Crimping is the way to go, plus the feature is built into your seating dies so its not an extra step. Just make sure you trim all you cases to the same length otherwise you may run into problems.

I had heard this before, but my S&W 500 dies don't crimp unless I'm doing something wrong with the set up? I had to buy a roll crimp die.

Somewhere I read that revolver rounds get a roll crimp & auto's get a taper crimp? Seems like it should be easy to remember.
 
I had heard this before, but my S&W 500 dies don't crimp unless I'm doing something wrong with the set up? I had to buy a roll crimp die.

Somewhere I read that revolver rounds get a roll crimp & auto's get a taper crimp? Seems like it should be easy to remember.

Yes that's correct, but you can get taper crimp dies for revolvers if you use plated bullets or bullets without a cannelure (crimp groove)

What brand of dies do you have?? I can only speak for Lee dies as that's what I have for pretty much every handgun caliber.

The revolver calibers will roll crimp and the semi autos will taper crimp.
 
I bought RCBS just to try a set out. Figures, I should have stuck with Lee
 
Hi There.
It's been ten years since I bought dies and did any reloading in my recollection Lee sold seperately a "factory crimp" die.
I used them together on my Dillon 650 with the regular Dillon dies.
Point is you can buy the factory crimp die to use with your RCBS sizing and seating dies.
 
I double checked and it is a set of Lee dies, but it's the three die set.
 
I double checked and it is a set of Lee dies, but it's the three die set.

That's fine also. set up is almost the same, Seat the bullet a little long like to the beginning of the crimp groove, then turn the whole die in about a half turn. The bullet will go in a little bit and then crimp. It's pretty much trial and error. The instructions are in the Lee Manual which are better than the info provided with the dies. If you do not have the Lee manual. let me know and I will send you that page.
Or buy the Lee factory crimp die and you crimp as a separate step which is more convenient when you change bullets.
 
Along with a crimp preventing bullet jump in revolver rounds a firm crimp is necessary for proper powder ignition and burn with the slow burning powders associated with Magnum ammo. This is especially true with W296/H110.
 
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