First post, lots of 686 questions

[dwever]

I think you were asking about the Pro Version since you mentioned 7 Shot. The PC version is an 8 shot and I would seriously consider that weapon. Mine can be seen at Doug Wever's Photo Galleries at pbase.com, but you really need to look up Exfeebe's pictures on this forum. Years ago, our agency used the 686, and as recently as last year we could purchase an anniversary model.

I have owned two 1911's, a S&W PC Melonite and an S&W Gun Site Edition Commander.

Why consider the Performance Center version .357 (2.625 barrel)?

First, in my opinion, most 686's, including the SSR's surprisingly, need action work out of the box for serious double action shooting. S&W offers that for around $150 for any 686 by their Performance Center I believe. Add in shipping and any charges from the gun shop you use, and it can add up.

2. Weight, Size, and Balance: For me at 6'1" and a little over 200 lbs. with big hands, the K frame in the 686 4" was slightly too light and too small in my hands. The K frame also transfers more recoil than the 37 oz. (2.625') or 44 oz. (5") PC N Frames. The N frame doesn't hurt even with .357 loads with wood grips.

3. Action: Both of my Perf Ctr 627's (5" and 2.625) the action has been smooth out of the case (I can drill a 25 yard silhouette shooting twice per second in double action in moderate light with the short barrel), the weight and balance is right, the size is just right. And of course the big N frame's going to handle recoil better.

4. Increased capacity and moon clips: I like the increased capacity of 8 rounds and option for moon clips carry, (particularly since I'm used to 15+1 + 2 spare 15 magazines when on duty with the mandatory Glock Model 22).

5. Perf Ctr being an N Frame doesn't conceal quite as well as the 686, but it is workable if you're intentional.

6. You don't have near the holster selection with the PC, but everything you need is out there. Three I recommend that are available for 686 or PC version: Galco High Ride, DeSantis Thumb Break Scabbard two slot, and Galco Combat Master.

 

[snowman]

2. Weight, Size, and Balance: For me at 6'1" and a little over 200 lbs. with big hands, the K frame in the 686 4" was slightly too light and too small in my hands. The K frame also transfers more recoil than the 37 (2.625') or 44 oz. (5") PC N Frames.

Sir,

I'm going to assume you meant "L frame" in the above references to the 686(??)

Andy

 

[dwever]

Not sure, I'm pretty sure our agency revolvers were K (medium), and the S&W web-site lists the 686 as a Medium Frame (Product: Model 686).

Someone posted: Think of Smith & Wesson's frame designations in the following manner:
"J" frame-small
"K" frame-medium
"L" frame-large
"N" frame-extra large

Of course, you could always just say that the "L" frame is an extra medium because the K and L are very similar with interchangeable grips but the L being a bit beefier at stress points.

 

[Bullet Bob]

686's are definitely L frames. For over 100 years, N's were the large frames. Not sure what they call the X & Z frames!

Edited to add: althought the double action on 686 SSR's may not be light enough for the various shooting sports, mine is perfect for what I would call "real world" events.

 

[dwever]

I'll add respectfully Bullet Bob, especially since the Snowman says that he is a newbie, that light trigger action is not the concern for double action; rather, smoothness through the cycle is. Below is a detailed explanation of what is intuitive to shooters.

At any point in the double action cycle that an increase or decrease of pressure changes to maintain a constant movement due to mechanical variations in the action, the guns aim will change temporarily until the shooter's muscle tension adjusts for the new amount of pressure required.

With a right handed shooter, a slight increase of needed trigger will pull the guns aim to the right and vice versa with the effects increasing with the amount of pressure variation and distance to target. Further, when variations of the action are sensed by the shooter, we instinctively slow the action down to keep the sites on target through fine continuous adjustments of muscle tension and aim. None of that is good.

Not only does the shooter need to compensate with a change of trigger pressure, he will also needs to bring the site picture back on target caused by the lag in time between the pressure requirement change and the compensatory muscular response by the shooter described above.

Consequently, for any double action application, "real world" or "shooting sports," consistency through the cycle, or smoothness, is more important that lightness of pull.

A lighter trigger will allow you to sense and react to minor variations more quickly, but consistency is your main need and is what keeps you on target for follow up shots which is life or death defending yourself while the consequences in shorting sports are comparatively negligible. So for "real world" is when your action is the most important.

Respectfully submitted.

 

[vytoland]

monroe...............

welcome to S&W. glad that you are here.

the S&W model 686 is an excellant choice for a .357 magnum revolver (new or used). dont get too hung up on mim parts and internal locks. it's no big thing.

model 686's come with 2 1/2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 3/8 inch barrels. find the one that looks and feels right to you and enjoy.

 

[snowman]

I'll add respectfully Bullet Bob, especially since the Snowman says that he is a newbie, that light trigger action is not the concern for double action; rather, smoothness through the cycle is. Below is a detailed explanation of what is intuitive to shooters.

At any point in the double action cycle that an increase or decrease of pressure changes to maintain a constant movement due to mechanical variations in the action, the guns aim will change temporarily until the shooter's muscle tension adjusts for the new amount of pressure required.

With a right handed shooter, a slight increase of needed trigger will pull the guns aim to the right and vice versa with the effects increasing with the amount of pressure variation and distance to target. Further, when variations of the action are sensed by the shooter, we instinctively slow the action down to keep the sites on target through fine continuous adjustments of muscle tension and aim. None of that is good.

Not only does the shooter need to compensate with a change of trigger pressure, he will also needs to bring the site picture back on target caused by the lag in time between the pressure requirement change and the compensatory muscular response by the shooter described above.

Consequently, for any double action application, "real world" or "shooting sports," consistency through the cycle, or smoothness, is more important that lightness of pull.

A lighter trigger will allow you to sense and react to minor variations more quickly, but consistency is your main need and is what keeps you on target for follow up shots which is life or death defending yourself while the consequences in shorting sports are comparatively negligible. So for "real world" is when your action is the most important.

Respectfully submitted.

Sir,

First, let me thank you for your contribution here; it is interesting and informative. I always appreciate folks who take the time to share their expertise with us.

I need clarification of the words, "...since the Snowman says that he is a newbie..." Are you referring to me here? If so, I'm trying to determine how I gave you the impression that I am a newbie. I've owned and fired 686s for a number of years now; that's why I was perplexed when you referred to them as K-frames. I knew that they were L-frames, and thought perhaps that you just had what some of us older folks call a "senior moment". You seem very knowledgeable and I just wanted to make sure I understood you.

Thank you again for your contribution to the forum, sir.

Respectfully,
Andy

 

[dwever]

My apologies. I likely confused you with someone else who identified themselves as new. My mistake.

 

[M3Stuart]

+1 on all the advice so far.

I did as someone else said; I got a 686-1 6" earlier this year, then just recently, traded it for a 4" 686-4 RB Plus.

So to the S&W newbie; buy a 686 you like, that you enjoy shooting, and can get for a good price. Then, when the time magically presents itself, you'll be able to trade up for the exact thing you want. (of course you might just have to buy the other gun then sell your old one.) As I said on the other thread; I have a total of $550 invested in my 686-4 4" which, to me, is an outstandingly good deal!

For the record, let me say that, IMHO, my 686-1 locked up a little tighter than my 686-4 does.

Regarding the MIM vs. Forged discussion: I go by quality and price. I have no issue with the MIM parts or the ILS. Buuuuuut, I can get the pre-lock guns for about 60% of the price of a new one AAnnnnnd they're great guns. So, you can read all my posts on this topic and they should be consistent; I will wait until I find a good deal on the gun I want. If they were selling new ones for less $, or they made a new one that was NOT available in a pre-lock model, then I'd buy it. And how do I know a good deal from a stinker? YOU Guessed it - by reading this forum!!!

 

[monroe]

Thanks for all the replies. I ended up finding a sweet '68 Python (which I had originally written off as out of my price range). I may still get a S&W in 45ACP, (625) but my 357 needs are met.