Lead Removal for .22LR

[442js]

I picked up the Lewis Lead Remover for my 586 and 681 revolvers which helped remove a lot of the lead on them. My problem is my .22LR revolvers as the Lewis Lead Remover doesn't seem to make a kit for that caliber. I have a cloth that removes lead, but that can't be used on blued revolvers which my .22LR revolvers are.

What do you guys recommend for blued .22LR revolvers to remove lead build up?

 

[HalfSwiss]

I've shot a ton of 22LR and never had a need to remove any lead build up because there wasn't anything a regular old cleaning with a bore snake or rod and bronze brush wouldn't take care of real fast.

 

[Alk8944]

My recommendation is to not let it get badly leaded to begin with. Since sticky extraction is common with S&W rim-fire revolvers it is a good idea to take a cleaning rod with you while shooting. Every 2-3 cylinders full make 2-3 passes through each charge hole using a 6mm bronze brush and you have solved the extraction "problem". While you are at it, run the brush through the bore too and you will never have a leading issue in the bore either. The brush is used dry, not with solvent, so there is no mess and it takes just a few seconds to do.

Works with all center-fire calibers too, just use a brush appropriate for the caliber, like .38 Rifle in .38-357 revolvers, or 8mm in .32 caliber guns. the brush has to be the first oversize for the caliber of your gun to work well.

 

[cptdco]

I've used brass Chore-boy strands on a .22 revolver the same as I've used on centerfire guns. Worked fine.

 

[arc2x4]

shoot quality ammo and you will not see a leading problem.

I shoot alot of .22lr and have several K22s, CCI standard velocity, Aguila SV, Federal High velocity, never a problem. The only time I had leading was with remington yellow jackets which is hyper velocity ammo. Didn't shoot them anymore after that one time.

As others have said good cleaning rod and a bronze brush will take care of it.

 

[442js]

I've shot a ton of 22LR and never had a need to remove any lead build up because there wasn't anything a regular old cleaning with a bore snake or rod and bronze brush wouldn't take care of real fast.

I probably should have been clearer. The bore is fine since I use a bore snake, but the outside of the forcing cone is where it is really dirty.

 

[442js]

My recommendation is to not let it get badly leaded to begin with. Since sticky extraction is common with S&W rim-fire revolvers it is a good idea to take a cleaning rod with you while shooting. Every 2-3 cylinders full make 2-3 passes through each charge hole using a 6mm bronze brush and you have solved the extraction "problem". While you are at it, run the brush through the bore too and you will never have a leading issue in the bore either. The brush is used dry, not with solvent, so there is no mess and it takes just a few seconds to do.

Works with all center-fire calibers too, just use a brush appropriate for the caliber, like .38 Rifle in .38-357 revolvers, or 8mm in .32 caliber guns. the brush has to be the first oversize for the caliber of your gun to work well.

I agree, I always clean my guns when I come back from the range. Unfortunately, I bought the guns, and while they are in really good shape, they weren't cleaned that much. The bore and cylinder looks great after I ran the bore snake through them, and cleaned up the outside of the gun. The only problem is the forcing cone. I can't seem to get all that crud off the outside of it.

 

[442js]

shoot quality ammo and you will not see a leading problem.

I shoot alot of .22lr and have several K22s, CCI standard velocity, Aguila SV, Federal High velocity, never a problem. The only time I had leading was with remington yellow jackets which is hyper velocity ammo. Didn't shoot them anymore after that one time.

As others have said good cleaning rod and a bronze brush will take care of it.

I have CCI Blazers, but they are causing a problem in my model 63. I haven't tried them in my model 18 yet. I have Federal bulk ammo which I haven't tried yet so I am hoping that will work, and not be too dirty. I don't know what brand the previous owner shot, but that owner didn't believe in cleaning after each time at the range. I got the bore and cylinder clean, it is just the forcing cone. The outside of it is filthy, and it is driving me mad.

 

[beach elvis]

Iosso Bore Cleaner and a super-soft baby toothbrush will remove the fouling from the forcing cone. Also the cylinder face. My gunsmith bud recommended them to me as what he uses so I've not looked any further. There may be other stuff out there that'll do it too, but none that I'm personally aware of.

 

[dfariswheel]

.22 revolvers often will lead up as do cylinders. I've found that the use of premium copper or brass plated bullet ammo reduces it, but some will still lead.

My preferred method of cleaning the leading is to use .223/5.56mm M16 bore cleaning brushes, or the commercial threaded version made for the AR-15.
The over-sized, stiff bristles removes the leading with no risk of damage to the gun.
You do need to be careful not to allow the brush tip to hit the revolver's breech face.
Push it through he bore until the brush touches the breech face, then rotate the brush a few turns to clean off the forcing cone.

 

[stevieboy]

This is the second time recently that I've posted on this issue. The "lead" buildup that you describe is almost certainly not lead but is the carbon residue left from firing .22lr rounds, which are far dirtier than centerfire ammo. You'll almost certainly find that if you probe with a dental pick at the gunk that's built up around the forcing cone that it breaks free as a crumbly black substance resembling charcoal. If it was lead, it would come off with more difficulty and would appear as shiny metal fragments.

Here's how to avoid the buildup. Buy some bronze wool or Chore Boy. Both are available at hardware stores (e.g., Ace). Tear off some strands from the pad and roll them into a thick thread. Then, use the thread like dental floss to "floss" the area between the top of the forcing cone and the frame. If that doesn't work -- and it surely will unless you have an extra heavy buildup of carbon -- then gentle probing with a dental pick will get the gunk out.

I have no problem with buildup on my 617. I "floss" mine after each trip to the range. Takes less than a minute and whatever's built up is gone.

As I've said, .22lr ammo is famously dirty. I've tried more than a half-dozen rounds. I've found that CCI Standard Velocity is relatively clean burning. Better yet, my 617 loves the stuff and shoots it quite accurately.