Mainspring issues on .32 Safety Hammerless 1st Model

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Hi all,

I am trying to diagnose an ongoing issue with a first model .32 Safety Hammerless. I've recently replaced the firing pin bushing/pin/and spring with parts from Jack First. While the pin retraction seems to work fine, I am getting way too much forward pressure with the existing spring. The new firing pin and spring work fine, as does the grip safety, but with the existing main spring, I am getting too much forward pressure on the pin and it keeps it pressing forward of the frame. What else do I need to check? See images. Without the main spring installed, the hammer, firing pin, and grip safety engage flawlessly. I am wondering if the spring a) isn't correct for the frame or b) if the spring has taken a set over the years and either needs to be replace or re-tempered and re-bent
 

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If possible, please give us a photo of just the stirrup. That's the part that connects the hammer to the mainspring and I think it was installed backwards. The stirrup is what makes the hammer rebound.
 
Interesting, I hadn't thought of that. Here are two images that focus on the stirrup. The first image shows it moved as far as it will go clockwise and the second shows it pushed counterclockwise.

I haven't been able to remove the hammer, I'm sure there is a trick I'm missing. Any tips on that? I wonder if someone possibly replaced the stirrup with one from a DA or possibly just a poor aftermarket part?
 

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Thanks for the photos. The second photo shows the stirrup is installed correctly. I now suspect that the mainspring is not correct and is too long. Measure the length of the spring, in a straight line, from the butt to the tip of the hooks with it Uninstalled and again installed. This is a bit tedious and could be done in two minutes with the revolver in hand. This will give me the info I need... I hope.
 
It is 2 7/8" from the base to the tip of the hooks when pressed flat against a ruler.

Re: the stirrup, does it look like its correct for the 1st model SH hammer? Also does the hammer seem correct for the 1st model as well? A lot can happen over 130+ years...
 
Right now, the only thing that looks suspect is the mainspring. The hammer and stirrup look correct, but the mainspring looks about 1/8" too long. I want to say that it is from a .32 HE. Another thought is that the strain screw has been shortened or is not seated tightly to the frame.

I'll be away most of tomorrow, but I'll try to check the mainspring size against what I know is correct. We'll get this sucker figured out.
 
I forgot to say that the mainspring appears to pull straight up or close to it. The spring should pull to the rear at about 45 degrees. That is my reasoning for the HE spring.
 
I think you are onto something with the strain screw. I have another first model and I compared the strain screws. One is about 1/32" shorter than the other. When I put the slightly longer one into the frame I've put the photos of, it pulls the firing pin just about flush with the frame. Is there a source for slightly longer strain screws that can be trimmed down to fit, or is it more or less the luck of the draw?
 
Now I realize I am also in need of a replacement split spring bolt return spring for the First Model SH... and they are not easy to find (n)

I've looked at Numrich, Popperts, and Jack First, but no luck. Any other sources I could check? I'm wondering if I could make one from an old pocketknife back spring and a Dremel cutoff wheel...?
 
I'm back from my 23-mile one-way foray into town. The split spring is next to impossible to find. I suspect that it was robbed from your revolver to repair another. The spring has a ~3/8" flag at one end and two really skinny spring legs that attach to the cylinder stop at the other. About the only way to find one is to buy an organ donor of the same model. Other than waiting patiently to find a donor, the only way is to make one. I wonder if that explains your spring issue.
 
Well the split spring in this one is fine, its broken in the other one I have. At this point I'm trying come up with at least one that functions properly. I ended up ordering a split spring for a .38 SH from Popperts just because they had them. If I can modify it for a .32 then lucky me, either way I will take detailed measurements of the one I pull. The one with the broken spring - one of the skinny legs snapped off, luckily I found it inside the mechanism and have it sitting on my desk now. I'm thinking it might not be too hard to replicate one. I guess that's half the "fun" of messing with antiques, right?

For the one I posted the pic of, the strain screw is 1/32" shorter than the one from the other one. Was there a "standard" length strain screw and they were all modified length-wise based on the spring?
 
I love messing with these antiques. The tempering of those skinny legs is challenging but not impossible. You'll find that the .38 split spring is longer than the .32 but, like me, you'll enjoy the hunt and the finished work.

As far as I know, there was only one standard length strain screw. What the +/- tolerances were, I have no idea. Try a popped .38 primer between the screw and the mainspring and see if that helps with the rebound. A small piece of shirt cardboard will work also.
 
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