Used 686s seem as rare as hen's teeth so I'm considering a new one. I've narrowed it down to 4 choices and would appreciate some feedback to help me decide on one. First, barrel length: 2.5" or 3" and why do you hold this opinion? Second, 686 or 686+? The plus with 7 rounds is about $30 more, but is it really worth it in a cc gun? TIA
Seeking opinions on a 686 for concealed carry
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sgms
Member
If the 686 is what you want to carry go for it, that is one darn fine pistol. Just my own preference as to barrel length is I don't like shooting mag. loads in anything shorter than a 3 inch. 6 or 7 rounds depends, You want 1 more before reload or a little slimmer for C.C. me I go six and practice a lot with the speed loaders.
47D
Member
The 686 and the 686+ have the same diameter cylinder, so the 686 is not any slimmer than the 686+. The walls between each chamber are thinner to accommodate the additional round.
If I were buying a new 686 to carry, I'd get a 3" 686+. The 686 is already somewhat hefty, so why not go ahead and get the 3" barrel which gives you a full length ejector rod and the "plus" gives you an extra round. Now personally, I'd rather carry a more concealable (and lighter) K-Frame than the larger L-framed 686, but either will serve you well.
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ogilvyspecial
Member
I've carried both the 2.5" regular 686 & the 3" 686+ and I preffered the 2.5-incher. The L-Frame is already considered large by some people so the 0.5" extra bbl length between the two may make a noticable difference when added to the overall weight & size of the 686, generally speaking.
I no longer carry either on a regular basis and have since switched to a 2.5" K-Frame Model 66-2, which, to me, is just the right size.......
For what it's worth I carry cross-draw and my favorite 686 between the two mentioned above is the 3" 686+, just not for carry purposes.
Your mileage may vary......
I no longer carry either on a regular basis and have since switched to a 2.5" K-Frame Model 66-2, which, to me, is just the right size.......
For what it's worth I carry cross-draw and my favorite 686 between the two mentioned above is the 3" 686+, just not for carry purposes.
Your mileage may vary......
Most certainly practice with +P, and probably carry 357 (which will require some practice with that round. It's also possible that +P may be sufficient for carry with the option for 357.
If I was making a buy on a new gun I would go for a 686+ with a 3"bbl, Gold bead front site and a 10-8 U-knotch rear sight. Granted you may not need an extra round, but later down the road how many 686's will you find in that configuration?
I've carried both the 2.5" regular 686 & the 3" 686+ and I preffered the 2.5-incher. The L-Frame is already considered large by some people so the 0.5" extra bbl length between the two may make a noticable difference when added to the overall weight & size of the 686, generally speaking.
I no longer carry either on a regular basis and have since switched to a 2.5" K-Frame Model 66-2, which, to me, is just the right size.......
For what it's worth I carry cross-draw and my favorite 686 between the two mentioned above is the 3" 686+, just not for carry purposes.
Your mileage may vary......
I already have a 66 no dash with 4", so the 3" would be too similar that I hesitate to spend the $$ for what is almost a duplicate. In fact I have a 4" 67 no dash too.
I was planning on getting a cross draw from Lobo, but recently had GI surgery that eliminates the possibility of a belt, so I had Ray Cory make me a shoulder rig. I like it so much I may not go back to a holster on a belt. The increased weight of the 3" over the 2.5 will probably not be noticeable in that holster. I'm still not convinced the 7th chamber is worth extra $$.
I support whatever one chooses to carry, but to me that is a lot of iron to carry on a regular basis, But then I am not a very large person, I carried my 686 deer hunting this year, which with a good holster worked out OK, but for everyday it is a 442 for me. msn
photoman
Member
I would go for the 2.5" seven shot and a back brace.
Sportsterguy
Member
I too prefer a K frame versus the larger and heavier L frame. I pack a 2.5" model 66 in a Lobo IWB and don't know it's there. With a quality IWB (Lobo) holster, a (Beltman) belt and a set of Ahrend FG Boot Grips it dissapears, never to be seen by anyone with the right outergarmet on. Recently drove 570 miles with it on and had no discomfort at all. I packed a 4" 586 OWB for a few months, years ago and much prefer my 66 to it. Much lighter, easier to conceal and will shoot .357's but they will recoil a bit more in the K frame. Been packing my model 66 here recently as a replacement to my Colt Commander and absolutely love it! Packed 1911's for over 20 years but due to rheumatoid arthritis in my right elbow and the pain from the recoil of a 230 gr. Speer GD had to go with something lighter. Glad I made the switch as the snub 66 is just as accurate at 25 yards and reloads are quick with a pair of speed loaders, but I put in alot of practice to speed my time up. If you treat the cylinders with Militec-1 lube/conditioner as directed, hold the revolver vertical and put a good whack to the ejector rod the cases will drop out from my experience with my 3 K frame snubs. Never have one not drop, including hot .357's. You can get a very good used one cheaper then a new 686. I load mine with Speer 135 gr. short barrel .38+P's and feel very, very well armed. It's an accurate round that will get the job done without all of the recoil, muzzle blast and flash of a .357. Accuracy is what really counts with a handgun and the recoil of these rounds is very controllable for fast follow up shots. Thanks 18DAI for the ammo tip!
If you do buy the 686 I recomend you immediately remove the IL and plug it up. I saw one activate itself at a shooting match a few years ago and would never carry one with it for SD. Chances of it happening are very slim, but IF it did happen would not want to be in that situation! JMO
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C.S.63
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corgiS&W,
I am pondering a similar question also, and I am ranging from a 15 or 67 right on up to an N frame. (just missed a good deal on a 15)
Can you post some pics of that shoulder rig?
Due to my build I either carry owb or in pocket and that would be with a J frame or a small KAHR. Years ago I carried a model 10 OWB but then I did not have to worry about concealed but I was also alot younger and smaller in width.
I am pondering a similar question also, and I am ranging from a 15 or 67 right on up to an N frame. (just missed a good deal on a 15)
Can you post some pics of that shoulder rig?
Due to my build I either carry owb or in pocket and that would be with a J frame or a small KAHR. Years ago I carried a model 10 OWB but then I did not have to worry about concealed but I was also alot younger and smaller in width.
Allen-frame
Member
The 686 for concealed carry?
100% reliable.
Powerful with 357 magnum ammunition.
HEAVY , your pants will fall down
.
Allen Frame
100% reliable.
Powerful with 357 magnum ammunition.
HEAVY , your pants will fall down
.Allen Frame
47D
Member
I have this exact combo and couldn't agree more.
one eye joe
US Veteran
A 2 1/2 inch 7 shooter W/O a lock in a crossdraw is how I roll........
Yep... The suspenders hold up the pants.
