SW1911 after 500 rounds= Frustration - Solved?

I now have 940 rounds through the gun after the 200 I shot today. I am happy to report that I had 200 flawless shots today. Well, I actually had 199 because one of the rounds had a bad primer and didn't go off.

What fixed it, you ask? I only made one change today and that was to remove the Wilson Shok-Buff. Yep, I had one of those little rubber/plastic things on there. A friend of mine suggested that I remove it. Wonder of wonders the gun is working well now.
 
What fixed it, you ask? I only made one change today and that was to remove the Wilson Shok-Buff. Yep, I had one of those little rubber/plastic things on there. A friend of mine suggested that I remove it. Wonder of wonders the gun is working well now.

One should know better than to use such foul implements on a 1911.;)

A good read below.
The Gospel According To John
 
Good to hear you found your problem. I used buffers in my 1911's many years ago, when the pistols were built a little looser than they are today.
 
I use a buffer in my Gold Cup and have not had any problems. I tried in my Commander and it does not work at all. Possibly the poster was right about a tight gun not doing well with the buffer. I know they do not seem to work well in the shorter guns.
 
Shok-Buff? :eek:

I have the exact same model of 1911 that I bought brand new from S&W four years ago and have never had a failure of any type, accurate as any target pistol I've ever owned... But mine didn't come with a "Shok-Buff"... ;)

Glad to hear you got it working, now you can enjoy your new gun.

-TS
 
1911 Malfunctions

In the first photo, the slide stop appears to be slightly out of parrallel with the frame, by less than a mm. Also, the slide stop appears to have too much material on the lug. Other causes could be inadequate slide stop plunger tension or a bad magazine (yea, I know, lots of folks like to blame the magazine for nearly all 1911 problems).

With the factory loads you are shooting, there is no reason to be changing the stock recoil spring, or to use a shock buffer, or anything other than the stock guide rod. Save those mods for bullseye shooting when you are shooting wadcutters and reduced loads.

Failures to feed could be bad ammo, rough feed ramp, bad extractor, bad magazine or bad magazine spring. Start with the ammo, eliminate that as a problem, then look for a rough feed ramp. With ball ammo this is less a problem than with wadcutters. Finally, number your magazines and note which one is being used when there is a failure to feed. Swap the spring, but not the follower with a known good spring. As you move the magazine parts around you can eventually determine if it is magazine frame, the spring or follower. Keep written notes about magazine number, first round, last round, type of ammo. Be methodical and don't let the bench shooters point you in different directions, like "use only Wilson mags", or change to a lighter/heavier recoil spring. You will get the problem solved sooner and for less money.

Once you eliminate or correct problems with the 1911 and ammo, if problems continue, there's not much left except what is attached to the grip.
 
Well, I'm very sorry to report that in the next 100 rounds I had another fail to feed. As much as I hate doing it, I sent it back to S&W. We will see what they say.

I was very much bugged when I took it back to the shop where I bought it. The first thing the attendant said was, "Oh, you should buy some Wilson mags." Then he followed that up with, "That's why you should have bought a Glock." I'll not be buying any more guns from them.

Maybe I'm unique, but I don't think I should have to buy any extra parts to make my gun work. I spent over $1K for this thing, it should work with the two mags it came with. At least that's the way I feel about it. If it's the mag, S&W should pay for the new one.
 
Well, I'm very sorry to report that in the next 100 rounds I had another fail to feed. As much as I hate doing it, I sent it back to S&W. We will see what they say.

I was very much bugged when I took it back to the shop where I bought it. The first thing the attendant said was, "Oh, you should buy some Wilson mags." Then he followed that up with, "That's why you should have bought a Glock." I'll not be buying any more guns from them.

Maybe I'm unique, but I don't think I should have to buy any extra parts to make my gun work. I spent over $1K for this thing, it should work with the two mags it came with. At least that's the way I feel about it. If it's the mag, S&W should pay for the new one.

Sorry to hear you had to send it back but after all your efforts it sounds like that's a smart move.

And the gun at the shop actually said "...that's why you should have bought a Glock." WOW, that's pretty unreal and cold; I'd not be doing anything with that shop again.

Let us know how it goes and what Smith has to say but I agree, it should shoot with the mags they provide.
 
Keep us posted plz. Hope you get it back soon and it works like it should.
 
(I didn't read the entire thread.) One thing I have learned over a lot of years of shooting is that some people just do not get along well with 1911s. If that is the case, the best thing they can do is just shoot something else. You may be one of those persons. If your "high" grip causes difficulty, you absolutely should NOT adjust your grip "lower" for the benefit of the gun unless an experienced coach or instructor can show you that you are doing something wrong. Use your normal grip (while keeping your thumbs pointed generally at the target) and if you cannot get along with the 1911 under those conditions, get another gun that works for you.

I agree with you, for the money spent, the mags supplied with that gun should be fine. I have an identical gun (make and model) to the one pictured and I use the mags it came with. No problems. You shouldn't need to spend an extra dime to buy a single part to make that gun work properly. It should be fine as-is. Any changes should be purely discretionary.

Everyone has an opinion on shock-buffs. Mine is that I would never want one in a gun that I have to depend on. If the gun is reliable with one installed, great. Just be sure to change them often and keep an eye on it - constantly. Apparently your gun doesn't like them.

Let us know how you get along when the gun returns from S&W.
 
(I didn't read the entire thread.) One thing I have learned over a lot of years of shooting is that some people just do not get along well with 1911s. If that is the case, the best thing they can do is just shoot something else. You may be one of those persons. If your "high" grip causes difficulty, you absolutely should NOT adjust your grip "lower" for the benefit of the gun unless an experienced coach or instructor can show you that you are doing something wrong. Use your normal grip (while keeping your thumbs pointed generally at the target) and if you cannot get along with the 1911 under those conditions, get another gun that works for you.

I agree with you, for the money spent, the mags supplied with that gun should be fine. I have an identical gun (make and model) to the one pictured and I use the mags it came with. No problems. You shouldn't need to spend an extra dime to buy a single part to make that gun work properly. It should be fine as-is. Any changes should be purely discretionary.

Everyone has an opinion on shock-buffs. Mine is that I would never want one in a gun that I have to depend on. If the gun is reliable with one installed, great. Just be sure to change them often and keep an eye on it - constantly. Apparently your gun doesn't like them.

Let us know how you get along when the gun returns from S&W.

This is pretty much some of the best advice I've ever read about 1911s in general. It's the direction I've gone without really being able to put it into words.

A great 1911 is a great gun. One that is just reliable enough to never fully earn your trust is a heartbreaker.

If a gun can't be cleaned and lubed, then shoot 500 rounds without a hiccup out of the box, I don't trust it.

I really hope you get your issues fixed. I've had a couple Colt 1911s I really liked, but after proving themselves just reliable enough to not be trusted, I moved on.

Best,

Heekma
 
Thanks fellas. This really is a heart breaker for me. I shoot this 1911 the best of any auto loader I've ever owned. But, I'm with Heekma, if it won't go 500 rounds without a failure, it's not the right gun for me.

I have a Glock 27 that I really like, but I don't shoot it that well. Still, I can hit a man sized target at 10 yards consistently. With the Smith I can shoot 3 shot groups that measure less than 3" at 10 yards. The Glock has never failed in the 1,000 or so rounds I've put through it. I can't say the same for the 1911.

I will keep you all informed about what S&W says.
 
I owned a Gunsite Edition about two weeks before I was able to get out to the Range. Once I was able to get out and put a box or so through it most of my problems were FTE/FTF ejecting spent brass into my forehead, actually ejecting in all directions.

I called Customer Service on Monday and they sent me a FedEx return which arrived Wed., the 1911 went out wed aft
and was returned the following Tue with a list of what was Fixed or corrected.

I would take this route again if I had to, the gun hasn't had
an issue since.

Just my experience so far

Jerry
 
I can feel your pain. I had a very similar experience(sans the slide stop problem) with the SW1911SC. The jam created in the pot is what's affectionately know as a bolt over base malfunction and is a spring issue. I replaced the springs in my 7 and 8 round mags with the Wolff 11# springs and got the Tripp 7 round spring kit for the 8 round mags and problems disappeared.

I'm convinced John Browning designed the 1911 with the 7 round mag in mind. Others may disagree and say they've never had a problem with the 8 round mags but some of us have. The springs are just not strong enough in the 8 rounders and the follower is too short in the back leg to keep the rounds from tipping around during firing. The last round or two is general what causes the problem in a bolt over base(3 point jam) malfunction. I've actually had the rounds to stand up, nose pointing skyward due to spring strength. I'm not talking about a spring that's ten years ole, mine were new.

For myself and my pistols, I've found the CM mags with their XP spring or the Wolff 11# springs and Hybrid lips have worked miracles in curing a jamming problem.The GI mags they sell with the dimpled follower is another good one for FMJ and some hollow points. You have to experiment there to see if things will work with your particular choice of ammo and mag combination. Bottom line, you have to try what works with you pistol.

This is what mine was doing early on.
_DEF3821a.jpg
 
Thanks fellas. This really is a heart breaker for me. I shoot this 1911 the best of any auto loader I've ever owned. But, I'm with Heekma, if it won't go 500 rounds without a failure, it's not the right gun for me.

I have a Glock 27 that I really like, but I don't shoot it that well. Still, I can hit a man sized target at 10 yards consistently. With the Smith I can shoot 3 shot groups that measure less than 3" at 10 yards. The Glock has never failed in the 1,000 or so rounds I've put through it. I can't say the same for the 1911.

I will keep you all informed about what S&W says.

How many rounds through the Glock? When I got my Glock 22, it wouldn't hit anything, but suddenly about 750 rounds in, it began more-or-less hitting point of aim and producing decent groups, even at 25 yards. The grip angle, the not particularly crisp trigger, and the balance may require some getting used to. While I'm shooting it OK, every friend or family member I let fire it still sprays their shots all over the target, and may not always even hit the paper. These are not necessarily people who can't shoot. My dad was the captain of his ROTC rifle team. Yeah, he's ancient and not quite what he used to be. He still only occasionally misses a soda can 100 feet away with a 1911. He hated that Glock.
 
The ammo question gets asked all the time… but the slide sure looks to show a lot of soot… and the color doesn't look right. It should be charcoal gray, blackish… but yellow? What factory rounds are you using?

Is the FTF on the first round? Full Mag?

The slide lock issue… if the tension is good… a solid click to disengage… I would have to say, your thumb is riding tightly against frame, just below the slide lock. How well does the safety engage / disengage?

Second that I believe if you modify your grip the 1st situation will go away same thing happened with my brother. For the 2nd problem I would polish the feed ramp and throat.
 
Inquiring minds want to know?

Did you get the gun back from S&W yet?

I still do not believe it is the gun. Most such failures are related to ammo or shooter error.

No offense but I am not a fan of switching parts on a gun. Just as with a car, they are made with certain size tires and changing the tire size will change handling and braking for the worse. S&W spends millions in research for what works and what does not. If one wants a custom S&W 1911, then order one. Changing to after market parts has been the cause of a lot of litigation due to injury. Changing parts also can void a warranty.
 
This is a great thread -- very informative and educational. I have definitely learned some new things re: 1911's. Can't wait to find out the resolution to this problem.

Funny, I am considering my first 1911 and find myself leaning heavily toward the SW1911's. I logged in to the site this morning thinking "I wonder why there aren't more SW1911 threads on the site" and then stumbled upon this thread.

And I'll second the thought that the gun should run reliably just as it shipped from the factory with no mods and with the mags that come with it.

Which model# SW1911 is it?
 
Well, I'm very sorry to report that in the next 100 rounds I had another fail to feed. As much as I hate doing it, I sent it back to S&W. We will see what they say.

I was very much bugged when I took it back to the shop where I bought it. The first thing the attendant said was, "Oh, you should buy some Wilson mags." Then he followed that up with, "That's why you should have bought a Glock." I'll not be buying any more guns from them.

Maybe I'm unique, but I don't think I should have to buy any extra parts to make my gun work. I spent over $1K for this thing, it should work with the two mags it came with. At least that's the way I feel about it. If it's the mag, S&W should pay for the new one.

Think about this. If I've read your posts carefully enough so far you've replaced the slide stop, the guide rod, and installed a shock buffer. Yet your are complaining that the gun should be working properly. Frankly, I find that a bit baffling. Really, would you expect a Ford V8 to run properly if you installed the crankshaft from a Chevy V6 in it? Personally, I would suggest that you restore your 1911 completely to the condition it was in as delivered from the factory before your start complaining the factory not making a reliable gun. The simple truth is that when you start customizing any mechanical assembly you either have to know what you are doing or expect to learn from your mistakes.

BTW, I'm not criticising your customizing your 1911, simply pointing out that you should expect that it can cause problems. Take it as a learning experience. So far you've learned that an extended slide stop will require changing your grip and that a 1911 really doesn't need a gimmick like a shock buffer.
 
Back
Top