old 357 magnum
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gkitch
Member
Ofas, we are going to need some pictures.
bamabiker
Member
If it's an old 357 magnum with a J serial number I think he has a one of a kind.
I think you need to check that serial number.
I think you need to check that serial number.
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cgt4570
Member
Yep. Pre-war = no letter prefix.
Early post-war = S
Later post-war = N
More modern = a mix of numbers and letters.
If it's a Registered Magnum it will have a second number stamped on the crane, this would be the registration number.
gripper
Member
ofus, I'm sure you meant your gun has a S prefix as there were no pre war guns in the 76000 serial number range. If so you have a pre 27 probably shipped around 1950. If by chance your gun has a N prefix it's an early 1970's model 27-2. I hope this helps.
Chad Gripp
Chad Gripp
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ofus, welcome to the forum. Can you make sure that your friend took the serial number from the butt of the gun and not from the frame surface that is exposed when you swing out the cylinder? Numbers on the hidden frame surface are process control numbers that have no meaning outside of the factory.
Your friend can check inside the ejector shroud under the barrel and the rear face of the cylinder, too. The serial number should be found there as well. There may be an S prefix if it is a postwar revolver, and the S may be separated from the numerals by several spaces.
A five screw gun (four in the sideplate, one in the frame in front of the trigger guard) is necessarily no later than the mid 1950s. The four-screw models began appearing in 1956-57.
Your friend can check inside the ejector shroud under the barrel and the rear face of the cylinder, too. The serial number should be found there as well. There may be an S prefix if it is a postwar revolver, and the S may be separated from the numerals by several spaces.
A five screw gun (four in the sideplate, one in the frame in front of the trigger guard) is necessarily no later than the mid 1950s. The four-screw models began appearing in 1956-57.
Many thanks to all who have responded to my inquire. After DC Wilsons instructions on the serial I have found the true serial is S 1644xx. I would still like to find out what is the year of manufacture. Does anybody have an idea what the value of the this gun might be? My friend has told me that the gun is in excellent condition.
I am sorry for taking so long to get back to everybody, but work has kept me very busy the last 3 days.
I am sorry for taking so long to get back to everybody, but work has kept me very busy the last 3 days.
Art Doc
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
Around 1956 or 57. Just before it became the Model 27.
gkitch
Member
value
Assuming it is wearing S&W factory grips and is in excellent condition but has no box, fair money would be somewhere between $450 and $550. There are some S&W lovers on this forum who will say $more, and any gunshop will offer less, but that is a realistic street price. If it is wearing aftermarket grips deduct $50-$100.
Assuming it is wearing S&W factory grips and is in excellent condition but has no box, fair money would be somewhere between $450 and $550. There are some S&W lovers on this forum who will say $more, and any gunshop will offer less, but that is a realistic street price. If it is wearing aftermarket grips deduct $50-$100.
In gKitch's excellent condition, I would say the value is close to double his posted range. Depends on how 'excellent'. My opinion only.
Ed
Ed
gkitch
Member
It's true, I'm cheaper (more conservative) than most.
Do you have any Pre-27s for sale? I need a few.
There is something about those long-tube early 357's that gets my heart beating a little faster. Here is one with some custom KB stocks on it. I think that a fair price for an excellent early post war long tube 357 would be in the $650 to $900 range. If it had the box that numbered to the gun and related paperwork and tools, add another $300 to the top end of that range.
My friend also has a 6.5 inch M-27 with the serial number 1866xx. Any ideas on the age and value of this gun, he tells me it also is in excellent condition. Once again, many thanks for everybodys respones. To those of you in Charleston, is it warm enough for you? I lived in Summerville for a few years back in the middle 70s. I still travel to Union several times a year to visit my father.
Art Doc
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
Barrel length has a HUGE effect on value with the 357s. Everybody, his brother, his preacher and his cousin Ira wants the 3.5" guns. The 5" models also have a strong following. The 6" guns fall dramatically in demand the therefore price. The 8" guns fall even further.
Some are snorting at $500 +/- for a nice 357 but if it has the long barrel this is not a ridiculous appraisal. Sure, sellers will ask for a grand or more, but how many actually sell?
Some are snorting at $500 +/- for a nice 357 but if it has the long barrel this is not a ridiculous appraisal. Sure, sellers will ask for a grand or more, but how many actually sell?
SP:
In general I agree with your assessment on how the market values the longer 357's (I think $500 is low, especially for a pre-27 long tube, but there are probably deals out there at somewhere in the $550 range for a 27-2 or later). I have a bunch of 3.5"ers, and a handful of 4", 5", 6" and 6.5" and a bunch of 8.375" post war N-frame 357's. I do have to admit that the short snubbie ones are very cool. BUT, when I go to the range or out to the desert and shoot 38's or 357's, it is a well worn pre-27 8.375" gun that I love to shoot. It tames any recoil. It points well. And, most importantly, it puts the bullets where I want them to go (at almost any distance). Disadvantage - it does not holster well (I don't even own a holster for the long tube N Frames).
Interesting note: Last Friday, I took my two teenage sons into the desert to shoot. I took 27's or pre-27's of all lengths. They shot all of them, but their favorites .... the 6.5" early 27-2 and the 8.375" pre-27. I hope that the collecting world continues to under value the 8.375"ers, as that leaves more for me...
Mine is a 50th Anniversary from 1985, S/N REG008X.
Does not count then I supose....
Does not count then I supose....
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