Here are some revolver tricks I use with IDPA.
Equipment:
1. Brownells makes a chamber polishing stone. Get one and polish the chambers mirror bright so the empties drop out when the gun's muzzle is raised.
2. Use a cratex tool to break the edges of the chamber mouths so a speed loader is more reliable to use.
3. Take the rebound slide out and use a cratex polishing rubber wheel (tube type fine grit) about the same size as the rebound slides spring tunnel. Polish the insides of the tunnel and the bottom of the rebound slide.
4. Use wolf rebould slide spring (just a pound or two less than factory weight.
5. Inside the rebound slide use a brownels trigger stop pin like this:
S&W REVOLVER CUSTOM TRIGGER KIT - Brownells
6. With a stone polish the contact parts of the cylinder stop and the trigger surfaces that engage the cylinder stop. Do the same with the hammer BUT don't touch the single action notch in either the hammer or trigger.
7. Use a window file (made for S&W revolvers) to debur the cut in the frame where the hand extends to the ratchets.
8. Use something like Micronlube to lube the insides once you put it all back together. You want a smooth pull more than a light one.
Smooth and no stacking.
Training:
1. You need to practice DA trigger manipulation EVERY NIGHT (empty gun of course.)
2. You need to practice reloading every night using dummy ammo in you speed loaders. Strive for smoothness over speed.
3. Drill for presentations (drawing) every night. Strive for the perfect index/sight picture. Close your eyes and draw to the 'stance' you prefer. Open your eyes. Are the sights aligned? If not shift one foot forward a bit and do it again until when you open your eyes the sights are in perfect aliment to the target. Then memorize your exact index (foot position, body position, hands, head.) That is THE position you want everytime you draw.
4. Do as much gun manipulation at home as you can so when you get to the range you can concentrate on index and trigger control.