Exactly this is all you need, no point to make it harder then it has to be, and with frog lube you can still use your truth brush for minty fresh breath. Bwaaahaha
Lower cleaning
- Thread starter rdxpo
- Start date
Exactly this is all you need, no point to make it harder then it has to be, and with frog lube you can still use your truth brush for minty fresh breath. Bwaaahaha
tacticool22
US Veteran
FrogLube and compressed air. You will never look back.
Majorlk
Member
What part of the 15-22 is the "frog?"
drequeen
Member
With the exception of the FCG and the bolt latch, there's nothing in the lower that affects functioning and there's no reason it has to be spotless. "Detail cleaning" more than every few thousand rounds isn't necessary, unless cleaning turn you on.
30 seconds with an air compressor set to 90 pounds and I'm done.
Thanks, Majorlk. I've been at a loss as to exactly what method to use to give my 15-22 a quick cleaning, and this makes the most sense. Keep it reasonably lubed, and blow out the upper and lower with my compressor.
Majorlk
Member
A note about lubrication. There are very few points than need any lubrication, and if you can see the lube on those, you probably have used too much.
- bolt carrier rails: just a couple of drops of CLP or a very small bit of gun grease on each rail.
- a single drop of CLP on the bolt latch inside the lower.
- a single drop of CLP on the hammer and trigger pins.
- a very small amount of gun grease on the hammer and trigger hooks.
Absolutely NO liquid lube in the firing pin channel. At most a squirt of DRY graphite.
The pins and hooks only need to be relubed if if you have cleaned them with GunScrubber or something similar.
Turdducken
Member
Question to since on the topic of cleaning solvents for the 15-22, I use simple green on my Mosin Nagant because its 70 years old and has cosmeline into the depths of the steel and drips out when heated up. Works great and removes it as well as cleans any other form of stuff built up. As well its non toxic, not oil based or anything, also smells great haha! But what would your do and donts based on this rifle consist of as in cleaning agents. Also oil I use remoil for lube because as well for the mosin helps out alot and have had no problem yet using it (have heard quarrels as in messes peoples fire arms up... guessing thats an urban myth though cause none reported.)
Col. Plink
Member
Majorlk
Member
For general after-the-range cleaning any of the CLP compounds are good. For degreasing GunScrubber or similar. For lube, CLP, Frog lube or any of a dozen good products.
RemOil in on the bottom of my list. It's primarily mineral oil and I would only use it if I couldn't get anything else. It's good on squeaky door hinges, though. As for WD40, there is NO firearms application it is good for, no matter what the can might say.
As has been said before, when applying lube, if you can see it, you used too much.
RemOil in on the bottom of my list. It's primarily mineral oil and I would only use it if I couldn't get anything else. It's good on squeaky door hinges, though. As for WD40, there is NO firearms application it is good for, no matter what the can might say.
As has been said before, when applying lube, if you can see it, you used too much.
Turdducken
Member
Never been a fan of WD40 or really used it, so no worries there. Thanks though, would like to try out that frog lube paste, not a fan of spray lube and it spraying where you don't want to even with the little straw, still finds a way of getting somewhere you don't and requires more clean up. As well a fan of stuff that is not harmful, especially with my son who tares into everything.
Boz
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Claymore_Dude
Member
roadkill45
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gunscrubber=non-chlorinated brake cleaner at 1/2 the price. just spray out your lower, use air if you want, the brake cleaner evaporates in about a minute, i love Rem Oil, so a quick squirt and wipe down and the lower is done. i hunt with 2 AR's and a SG every weekend with the guns mounted on the front of my ATV, only the scopes have covers and i use a rubber finger thing they use to count money/paper with over the end of the muzzle. this is through sand that is like the sahara. if i over grease or grease anything, sand will stick to it like glue. Mobile One, Rem Oil, brake cleaner and a bore snake have never let me down. i still have to blow out all the sand even if i have not fired a shot, but it is just a cursory wipe down, not a total cleaning. M4 TM below, just disregard the points that don't apply to the 15-22.
http://www.kdeguns.com/ar-manual/M4 16 23Pchange8.pdf
http://www.kdeguns.com/ar-manual/M4 16 23Pchange8.pdf
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Faded_Jeans
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Probably a silly thing to mention, but I always have wooden food skewers on hand, and almost every time I clean a gun I grab one and use the pointy end to push gun patches around tight corners. I find it useful, anyway.
drequeen
Member
Just called my LGS, they usually have Froglube in stock (they're out now). All I have is Rem Oil and Hoppes Elite (for lubrication). Any thoughts on Hoppes? I haven't seen it mentioned on here (unless I missed it). Excited about the Froglube, should be in stock next week.
Maddmax
US Veteran
Frog Lube is what you are looking for. It has a Food Grade Safe Rating and is safe for the environment. Smells good. Works great,I use it on all my weapons. Just follow the instructions and you will be good to go.
RED ZMAN
Member
Believe it or not, in the army it was regular practice after firing hundreds of blanks, which really make your weapon dirty, to use a car parts cleaner, carburetor cleaner, or brake cleaner.
I've even seen infantryman swear about taking the weapon into the shower with hot soapy water. The most important part is using stuff it's not going to damage the weapon, damage the protective Bluing coating on the weapon, and to properly dry, clean, and lubricate it.
I personally do detailed cleaning every couple 100 rounds on all of my weapons. Make sure that they've got a decent coating of CLP on them, And wipe down the outside with a silicone gun rag.
Blasted from my Samsung Galaxy SIII (CM10.1 Masta Mix).
I've even seen infantryman swear about taking the weapon into the shower with hot soapy water. The most important part is using stuff it's not going to damage the weapon, damage the protective Bluing coating on the weapon, and to properly dry, clean, and lubricate it.
I personally do detailed cleaning every couple 100 rounds on all of my weapons. Make sure that they've got a decent coating of CLP on them, And wipe down the outside with a silicone gun rag.
Blasted from my Samsung Galaxy SIII (CM10.1 Masta Mix).
roadkill45
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I've seen quite a few guys in the shower with their A2's!!! after 21 years Army you see some amazing stuff. i preferred the hot water in the wash sink and brake cleaner, bore snake and a tooth brush.
I do the same thing.. the big bag of Amazon.com: Farberware Classic 12-Inch Bamboo Skewers, 75-Count: Home & Kitchen@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51kIgOQTjgL.@@AMEPARAM@@51kIgOQTjgLs work great for pushing patches. I end up sharpening the tips in a rotary pencil sharpener when they get dulled. The plastic picks break and bend for me.. these work so much better and are disposable/reusable.
As far as the FCG, I blow it out with Amazon.com: Metro Vacuum SK-1 Air Force Blaster Sidekick Compact & Portable Motorcycle Dryer: Home Improvement@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41N7kvpf2yL.@@AMEPARAM@@41N7kvpf2yL. A little loud but it get's everything dry and spotless after a little brushing with mc2500 or mpro7 degreaser.
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