Boz
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Lower cleaning
- Thread starter rdxpo
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Claymore_Dude
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roadkill45
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gunscrubber=non-chlorinated brake cleaner at 1/2 the price. just spray out your lower, use air if you want, the brake cleaner evaporates in about a minute, i love Rem Oil, so a quick squirt and wipe down and the lower is done. i hunt with 2 AR's and a SG every weekend with the guns mounted on the front of my ATV, only the scopes have covers and i use a rubber finger thing they use to count money/paper with over the end of the muzzle. this is through sand that is like the sahara. if i over grease or grease anything, sand will stick to it like glue. Mobile One, Rem Oil, brake cleaner and a bore snake have never let me down. i still have to blow out all the sand even if i have not fired a shot, but it is just a cursory wipe down, not a total cleaning. M4 TM below, just disregard the points that don't apply to the 15-22.
http://www.kdeguns.com/ar-manual/M4 16 23Pchange8.pdf
http://www.kdeguns.com/ar-manual/M4 16 23Pchange8.pdf
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Faded_Jeans
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Probably a silly thing to mention, but I always have wooden food skewers on hand, and almost every time I clean a gun I grab one and use the pointy end to push gun patches around tight corners. I find it useful, anyway.
drequeen
Member
Just called my LGS, they usually have Froglube in stock (they're out now). All I have is Rem Oil and Hoppes Elite (for lubrication). Any thoughts on Hoppes? I haven't seen it mentioned on here (unless I missed it). Excited about the Froglube, should be in stock next week.
Maddmax
US Veteran
Frog Lube is what you are looking for. It has a Food Grade Safe Rating and is safe for the environment. Smells good. Works great,I use it on all my weapons. Just follow the instructions and you will be good to go.
RED ZMAN
Member
Believe it or not, in the army it was regular practice after firing hundreds of blanks, which really make your weapon dirty, to use a car parts cleaner, carburetor cleaner, or brake cleaner.
I've even seen infantryman swear about taking the weapon into the shower with hot soapy water. The most important part is using stuff it's not going to damage the weapon, damage the protective Bluing coating on the weapon, and to properly dry, clean, and lubricate it.
I personally do detailed cleaning every couple 100 rounds on all of my weapons. Make sure that they've got a decent coating of CLP on them, And wipe down the outside with a silicone gun rag.
Blasted from my Samsung Galaxy SIII (CM10.1 Masta Mix).
I've even seen infantryman swear about taking the weapon into the shower with hot soapy water. The most important part is using stuff it's not going to damage the weapon, damage the protective Bluing coating on the weapon, and to properly dry, clean, and lubricate it.
I personally do detailed cleaning every couple 100 rounds on all of my weapons. Make sure that they've got a decent coating of CLP on them, And wipe down the outside with a silicone gun rag.
Blasted from my Samsung Galaxy SIII (CM10.1 Masta Mix).
roadkill45
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I've seen quite a few guys in the shower with their A2's!!! after 21 years Army you see some amazing stuff. i preferred the hot water in the wash sink and brake cleaner, bore snake and a tooth brush.
I do the same thing.. the big bag of Amazon.com: Farberware Classic 12-Inch Bamboo Skewers, 75-Count: Home & Kitchen@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51kIgOQTjgL.@@AMEPARAM@@51kIgOQTjgLs work great for pushing patches. I end up sharpening the tips in a rotary pencil sharpener when they get dulled. The plastic picks break and bend for me.. these work so much better and are disposable/reusable.
As far as the FCG, I blow it out with Amazon.com: Metro Vacuum SK-1 Air Force Blaster Sidekick Compact & Portable Motorcycle Dryer: Home Improvement@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41N7kvpf2yL.@@AMEPARAM@@41N7kvpf2yL. A little loud but it get's everything dry and spotless after a little brushing with mc2500 or mpro7 degreaser.
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I too am a fan of my "air gun" attached to my compressor set at 90PSI for all firearms cleaning needs. Before I got a parts washer years ago, I used Birchwood Casey's Gun Scrubber. It's sort of like brake cleaner, but won't melt plastic, because it doesn't have any Methyl Ethyl Ketone or Acetone in it. In other words: "Brake Cleaner Bad". 
I use low-odor mineral spirits now in the parts washer, which is continually circulated through a filter. My parts washer sits atop a 55-gallon drum of it. In other words: "Mineral Spirits Good."
I use low-odor mineral spirits now in the parts washer, which is continually circulated through a filter. My parts washer sits atop a 55-gallon drum of it. In other words: "Mineral Spirits Good."
roadkill45
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hmmm, brake cleaner bad....the only bad experience i have had in over 40 years of shooting was with a rubber hogue grip that got a little melty. it was actual rubber though. have NEVER had an issue with a polymer gun. If you did a garage rattle can paint job on a hunting gun or whatever, like a few of mine, it will take off some of the krylon paint on the outside, but won't hurt a stock gun. gotta use the non chlorinated stuff, gun scrubber components are the same. that and a compressor..good.
I clean my krylon camo'd Bushy Predator with so many upgrades to it on the inside, with a Schmidt and Bender short dot on the top with the above so trust me i'm not afraid of using walmart brake cleaner. i do wrap the scope in a couple of ziplocks and rubberband the bottom just so i don't hit a lens by accident on a $2500 scope.
I clean my krylon camo'd Bushy Predator with so many upgrades to it on the inside, with a Schmidt and Bender short dot on the top with the above so trust me i'm not afraid of using walmart brake cleaner. i do wrap the scope in a couple of ziplocks and rubberband the bottom just so i don't hit a lens by accident on a $2500 scope.
I've been using Hornady One Shot Cleaner and Dry Lube.....Works well...It cleans, and then leaves a dry wax like lube that does not allow the powder and residue to stick to the internals....Subsquent cleanings work much faster and much better...It works well on the bolt and rails also......Best regards Plum
Majorlk
Member
Interesting. I have never tried it. I've been using CLP for so long I haven't paid attention to anything else. You have me a little curious now.
RED ZMAN
Member
Me too, I'll have to check this out.
Blasted from my Samsung Galaxy SIII (CM10.1 Masta Mix).
Blasted from my Samsung Galaxy SIII (CM10.1 Masta Mix).
photoracer
Member
If you clean it more often that every thousand rounds or two you are overworking yourself. With the exception of one part rimfires shoot better the drier they are. The rails for a slide or bolt are the only parts that need some lube. I don't even use any lube on the boresnake because the lube on the ammo takes care of that. I do put a little of the supplied grease on my Geissele trigger contact points. I clean all the action surfaces, and by that I mean the bolt, breech, and feedramp with Eezox. Occasionally I will wipe the exterior metal parts with Eezox, because it has the best anti-rust properties. I shoot competition just about every weekend (not all rimfire). And when I come home I do the same thing every time. I toss the range bag in the corner till the next weekend, then pick it up and put in back in the car, and drive to the next event. When I have the time and ammo I practice during the week. Last weekend I competed at Frederick, MD on Sat. and York, PA on Sunday. This weekend I will be at Glengarry, WV on Sat. and Palmyra, PA on Sunday.
Dikinalaska
Member
A note about lubrication. There are very few points than need any lubrication, and if you can see the lube on those, you probably have used too much.
- bolt carrier rails: just a couple of drops of CLP or a very small bit of gun grease on each rail.
- a single drop of CLP on the bolt latch inside the lower.
- a single drop of CLP on the hammer and trigger pins.
- a very small amount of gun grease on the hammer and trigger hooks.
Absolutely NO liquid lube in the firing pin channel. At most a squirt of DRY graphite.
The pins and hooks only need to be relubed if if you have cleaned them with GunScrubber or something similar.
Hey Major, I think my spray lube is a dry silicon. You have any experience with these? I got it for lubing the block and buffer tube for the slidefire, but am wondering how well it'd work for everything else. Also I've got the Timney drop-in unit. What maintenance should I perform on this? I asked elsewhere with no response and your opinion seems to be the one I trust over most. Thanks in advance
Majorlk
Member
I don't use it for lubrication on anything. I do use a silicone rag to wipe down the exterior of my firearms to remove fingerprints. I have heard it works on sliding plastics parts, though.
I have zero experience with Timney triggers. I have no idea how you lubricate them. All I ever do with any trigger is a SMALL drop of CLP on pins and other rotating parts and a very small amount of Tetra grease on sliding parts such as the hooks on the trigger and hammer. This is my routine on every firearm I have - rifle, pistol and revolver.
I hope this helps.
Dikinalaska
Member
Ya it does a bit. Helps on all other areas lol. Ya the Timney seems to be an enclosed unit so I don't know if I'm supposed to be lubing it anywhere. Maybe I'll just contact the manufacturer. Thanks for all the good advice.
Majorlk
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roadkill45
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i use the Chuck McComick (CMC) straight trigger drop in's for all of my normal AR's. Their site says one drop of oil on the hammer and it will lube the unit. IDK about the Timney but it should be the same since they are basically the same drop in. you just don't want a pool in the bottom, but they do have several weep holes in them for that reason alone. love that trigger. Had a Gisselle but it was just too finicky for me.
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