Talk to me about Frog Lube!

FL gets plenty of good reviews, just sounds like a lot of extra work to me. I use G96 complete gun treatment, Hoppes Elite bore gel (unscented), and Hoppes lube (for slide rails). No pre-heating required.
 
Heating the metal may seem like a hassle, but in the long run, it really isn't. What I did, initially, was to turn the oven on high. While it came up to temp(about 10 minutes-then turned it off) I stripped the weapon, cleaned the gunk out, dried it off and set the parts on a old pizza pan(sheet of tin foil covering it)and placed it in the oven. After a couple minutes, pulled the parts out of the oven and proceeded coat them with the FL. Set them back on the pan for about an hour, then wiped them down per the instructuctions, then reassemble. Next time after you go out to shoot, clean it again, and repeat the procedure. After about 3 times, you don't have to do the heat treatment.
 
The only heat treating I did was to shoot. I read the directions, threw them aside, cleaned my firearms as I shot them and then used FL, eventually I had cleaned them all and shot them. I like the way it works. Maybe it would work better if I used a hair dryer or oven but that didn't appeal to me so I didn't:eek: Seems to work better than my old standby (Breakfree CLP) I've cleaned it with BF and then did it again with FL and got more gunk out of it. One thing I do different is that I use an ultrasonic cleaner for pistol slides, barrels and various small parts from other firearms, then I lube after. I don't use ultrasound every time after shooting, normally about once a month. (I shoot at least 3 times a week). I think I'll stick with the FL.
 
I love not having to scrape carbon off the gun. Just wipes clean.

It's laughable people consider it more work. Just using a traditional CLP is more work because it instantly attracts dust, dirt, lint etc.
 
Glad you guys like your FL. I haven't tried it and don't plan to. I have used this www.sentrysolutions.com/docs/Brochure.pdf for several years and see no reason to change now. Www.sentrysolutions.com. It is oil-free, so doesn't attract or collect dust, dirt, grit, lint, etc. Outstanding cleaner and lube. Best rust inhibitor, even in saltwater high humidity environments, I have ever found for guns, knives, anything metal and will not harm plastics or wood. Developed for and used by U.S. military in world's harshest environments. Made in USA, non-toxic product. Get the Armorer's Kit for best value. You won't be sorry.
 
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If taking a hairdryer to your weapon is a turn-off to you, or seems like too much work (lol), you can always simply put he UNLOAED gun in the sun for 10 minutes. Frog Lube is an amazing product, dont knock it till you try it!
 
I am now a convert for Frog Lube...I will never use any other product.

I was skeptical too...but not now.

Some people will never change or try anything new...even when they should.
 
Use FL on my pistols, Morini and Sig X-5.
Works very nice, easy to clean after training, just wipe of and put some more on. Gonna use it on my incoming 686 to.
 
If taking a hairdryer to your weapon is a turn-off to you, or seems like too much work (lol), you can always simply put he UNLOAED gun in the sun for 10 minutes. Frog Lube is an amazing product, dont knock it till you try it!


This man speaks the truth.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I ordered the 4oz combo off Amazon. $25.25 no tax, no shipping charge. Not as expensive as I was thinking and will get my flippers wet!
 
I haven't tried FL yet but do plan to do so. I will be ordering some in the next week or two. How often is retreating recommended ?
 
Thanks for all the replies. I ordered the 4oz combo off Amazon. $25.25 no tax, no shipping charge. Not as expensive as I was thinking and will get my flippers wet!

Give it a shot its good stuff. My favorite part of using it is that I can go to bed without smelling hoppes all night.

One thing I realized is I probably use too much paste on the initial treatments. I tend to wipe off a bunch after it sets. Oh well. I got the 4oz paste 4 oz liquid combo. Since then I have done two applications on at least 5 pistols really laying it on and I still have most of the paste left. I've made a good dent but I have more than half a tub left.

Enjoy your new lube. The challenge will be what to do with your old CLP products.
 
I like it. I can use it indoors and my wife doesn't complain about the smell. Hoppe's drives me outside.

As for a CLP, it's great. I've converted over. Don't use FL with petro based lubes.
 
Waiting for my FL to arrive, probably Monday. I've watched the videos so I'm up to speed on the initial application and subsequently cleaning.

I'm now reading more about doing a retreatment with the heating process and all on a regular basis. What is the general consensus on what "regular" would be.

I have found Froglube to be great stuff in semi- pistols, but I do not like it in my semi rifles. With an AR, it just attracts a ton of junk. With the pistols, it smooths out everything. EVERYTHING.
I clean my pistols as usual, and depending on the level of carbon stuck in the pistol will determine if I use FL or Hoppes.
If it's dirty, Hoppes cuts powder and buildup better. Froglube is a lube, and that is all it is.
If I clean with Hoppes, I will dry the parts off with a good rag, then I use the FL paste on the pistols. Just slime it on, and wipe up the excess. Good to go. I am not heating the gun, and I feel the FL is smooth and good for a lot of shooting; 1000 rounds is not unusual.
 
I use it on suppressors by baking the baffles in the oven for 15-20 min at 200, where they are just a tad too hot to hold, then apply... after the parts cool, i reapply a light coat of the paste, and a thick coat on baffles front strike faces.

I did this to a new all aluminum unit prior to our range day on the 11th, and the can ran all day on a Savage MkII 22lr.... about 2000 rounds of federal 22 went through it as a free demonstrator.... took the can apart last night and wiped it clean with paper towels.... the stuff works......

The negative is that dirt/grit gets suspended in the lube, and you have to wipe off completely, as well as avoid petrochemicals.... other than that, I have nothing but kudos for it... all my firearms wear it now....
 
I am now a convert for Frog Lube...I will never use any other product.

I was skeptical too...but not now.

Some people will never change or try anything new...even when they should.
So am I supposed to just throw away my 10 year supply of what has been working for me for the last 20 years & go with FL? Yeah, when I run out of what I have I might give FL a try, but what I use works just fine for me, & I'm happy with it. While a synthetic oil like Mobil 1 might work better than the Dino oil I am using now, I still have gotten over 250,000 miles from some cars I have used in the past. The motors were still perfect, but I junked the car for other reasons. Mobil 1 could help for Z06 Corvettes at 7000 RPM, but I just drive a Chevy Impala that rarely see's 3000 RPM. When I finally run out of my Slip 2000, TW25B, & Tetra gun grease in 10 years or so, I will be glad to try FL. GARY
 
Don't forget ot lookup this stuff.Seal1.com you say you were a navy seal..Well then stick with this! Sure smalls the same ans it very slippery. Meal is treated the same way.. G
 

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