686 SSR

[kaaskop49]

I had been having ignition problems/light hits with off-brand foreign .357 factory ammo. I checked the strain screw and found it had not been screwed in completely at the factory. A full turn with a screwdriver solved the problem. I never lighten this screw, I must have 100% ignition.

Shot the 686 SSR again recently for the 1st time since above and found the same light hits. Nobody had touched that screw but it had apparently worked itself out; this time a 1/2 turn with the screwdriver was required.

Anything not drastic I can use to anchor this screw in place?

Thanks in advance!

 

[cwmoss]

Use a little Blue Loctite.
Daryl (cwmoss)

 

[kaaskop49]

attn:cw moss

Hey Daryl! Thanks much. Have always read about Loctite but never used it. Can it be 'over-ridden' at some future time such as for gunsmith maintenance? That it's not permanent? Stay safe Fire!

Alan (Kaaskop49)

 

[Cal44]

What I remember is red Locktite is permanent and blue is for something you may want to loosen later.

So it sounds right to use blue in case a smith needs to take out that screw at some point.

 

[kaaskop49]

Next 'Nervous Nellie' question: Am I applying the Loctite directly to the screw threads or in the threaded recess the screw sits in? Or doesn't it matter? Thank you.

 

[Cal44]

The times I've used it I put it on the threads before screwing down the screw. I've used it for automotive, bicycle, and electronics cabinet screws.

I'd feel more comfortable if someone with gun smith experience would weigh in here, as nothing I used it for had the critical nature and tight tolerances of a firearm.

Dave

 

[shawn mccarver]

Kaaskop49:

I am sorry you are having trouble. I know you are a frequent poster of good information on this forum, and I hate it when someone I feel like I know has an issue with an S&W. I wish I could look at it for you.

I would not use loctite at all. That strain screw, when screwed completely down, is supposed to have a shoulder to prevent it from backing out. I have never had one back out. Ever. 40+ years of shooting S&W revolvers.

S&W does not ship them "backed out" as that is known to be asking for trouble since they will work looser if not tightened all the way down.

I wonder if the gun store where you got it or the previous owner made some modification of which you are not aware. I have heard of some gun stores loosening the strain screw to make the trigger pull appear better to help the sale.

If discovered, they just deny knowledge and blame S&W. If you need loctite, I think you may have another issue. S&W has been pretty clear on this issue when I have talked to them about it, and I have asked the "loctite question."

Shawn

 

[Gunz50]

tolerances can and do make a difference , even S&W has + and - .
There might be a minimum size on the screw and a maximum size of the screw hole,causing it to be able to loosen with recoil.
Not a common problem but a possible one.
Try the blue Loctite, it won't hurt anything at all and is easily reversible.
If it works , it works, easy to do, why not try it.?

 

[tomcatt51]

The strain screw loosening is very common on the stainless guns, much less so on the blued guns. The stainless strain screws seem to be a poor choice of alloy/heat treat, they're simply too soft. The result is that they loosen and the tip deforms.

Blue loctite is commonly used. Purple 222 loctite is actually more appropriate. DO NOT use red.

 

[shawn mccarver]

The strain screw loosening is very common on the stainless guns, much less so on the blued guns. The stainless strain screws seem to be a poor choice of alloy/heat treat, they're simply too soft. The result is that they loosen and the tip deforms.

Blue loctite is commonly used. Purple 222 loctite is actually more appropriate. DO NOT use red.

I have never read anything about this. If true, however, it seems the better choice is a blued strain screw.

 

[tomcatt51]

...it seems the better choice is a blued strain screw.

I agree. My blued guns have their original strain screws except my 17-8. It has an 8-32 socket set screw because I needed more range of adjustment than the stock strain screw provided. My stainless guns all have socket set screws replacing the factory stainless strain screws. Socket set screws are by definition grade 8, good stuff.

 

[snubbyfan]

As the others said, use a drop of blue loctite. I will add that you should make sure both the screw and screw hole are clean.

 

[canvsbk]

I had the same issue with my ssr. The blue lock tite answer is the correct one.

 

[tomcatt51]

The blue lock tite answer is the correct one.

You can use blue and it's regularly done. Successfully probably because people DON'T clean the threads thoroughly.

If you read Loctites info (who does that?), blue (242) is meant to be used on 1/4"+ diameter fasteners. Purple 222 is for sub 1/4" fasteners. Clean the threads thoroughly, acetone is the correct cleaner/primer for loctite, and blue will give you fits trying to get your strain screw (or ejector rod) loose. Apply blue to "dirty" threads (probably most common) and you're ok.

 

[socal s&w]

One other product that I have used successfully many times to stop nuts and bolts from working loose in my baja bug machine is RTV. Most any color you want, it will not seize up and is easily removable at any time because it remains pliable.

 

[ikor]

The strain screw loosening is very common on the stainless guns, much less so on the blued guns. The stainless strain screws seem to be a poor choice of alloy/heat treat, they're simply too soft. The result is that they loosen and the tip deforms.

Blue loctite is commonly used. Purple 222 loctite is actually more appropriate. DO NOT use red.

I have seen this happen over and over again with many SS S&Ws, especially the 60 or so M67's (or whatever they called the M15 stainless with two piece barrels and lock before they discontinued them) stainless revolvers we use at our Academy. Blue Loctite will do the trick.