Should be a J-frame owner but not! Update II New owner

[Rick_A]

These days you have really have to look, apparently. While I don't see any bad ones around here...there's lots mentioned on the internets.

My 442 no-lock was flawless.

 

[71velle]

I can try to take some up close photos it that helps. It looks well build, but its my first revolver so I have nothing to compare it to.

 

[SJshooter]

I can try to take some up close photos it that helps. It looks well build, but its my first revolver so I have nothing to compare it to.

-Look down the barrel with a flashlight and look for scratches or pitting.

-Make sure the gun is unloaded, pull the trigger and keep it pulled. While the trigger is back, see how much the cylinder moves. None is ideal, but the less the better.

-Dragging your finger along the ejection rod to slow the pace, slowly pull the trigger repeatedly, listening to make sure the timing of the gun is in place.

If it passes these three, chances are you have a winner.

 

[kaaskop49]

attn SJshooter

You know your guns, sir. Don't think anyone could pass off a bad one on you!

I understand the timing check, have done it more times than Carter's has little pills (remember that?). But I don't understand the dragging of the finger on the cylinder or ejector rod. Seems to me you're putting an additional stress on the mechanism that isn't there when the gun is fired...

Best wishes and good shooting!

 

[radar1972]

71velle,
In answer to your earlier question, yes, a Desantis Nemesis is a good pocket holster for a 642. That's what I use when a pocket holster is needed.

I normally carry OWB in an American Pride Leather holster for j-frame snubs, in the 4:00 position on my belt. Disappears under whatever shirt I wear. It's good quality, has excellent retention and only costs $24.95 at Amazon.com.

 

[71velle]

-

-Dragging your finger along the ejection rod to slow the pace, slowly pull the trigger repeatedly, listening to make sure the timing of the gun is in place.

Not sure if I understand this one. Is it to make sure the cylinder is locked before the hammer strikes?

Also their is a little movement in the cylinder after the trigger is pulled. Is this something that will worsen with time?

Back to Ammo I just saw lead round nose made by Magnatec (not sure on the name) it was cheaper than the FMJ by about $5 per box. Should I care if its FML or LRN?

Thanks for all the help!!

 

[Kilibreaux]

I saw a 642 no lock at the local store, went back to buy it and it was sold!! The sales person said let me check in back and came out with a box I was excited... Opened the box and it was the lock model. I probably shouldn't care but I dont want to have regrets down the road.

Interestingly, one day the "lock" models will be the ones worth extra money...it always happens that way with firearms!

Don't let the internal lock dissuade you from owning a very good firearm.

A lot of hooey is made of the possibility that the lock can somehow engage during a defensive shooting situation...that hyperbole ignores the salient fact that ALL revolvers including ALL that came before the internal lock model S&W's are capable of OPERATOR INDUCED malfunction that is far more likely to happen in a real-life, stress-fire, shootin situation than the IL deciding to deploy itself.
ALL DA revolvers can be short-stroked causing the cylinder to advance without the hammer being cocked - NO FIRE!
ALL DA revolvers can be short-stroked causing the hammer's DA lever to jam against the trigger sear resulting in LOCK-UP with the cylinder, hammer, and trigger "locked" until the operator releases pressure.
ALL DA revolvers can and WILL fail to return the cylinder to full lock if improperly handled during ejection of spent cases and powder debris gets between the crane and frame.
ALL DA revolvers can and WILL BIND UP once heat build-up causes the forcing cone to expand and contact the cylinder face! This will happen FASTER on a Ruger than a S&W due to Ruger's generally smaller BC gap, and will also tend to happen faster on magnum calibers, especially the .357 magnum when firing "real" .357 loads.
ALL DA revolvers can and WILL become inoperable during the ejection of spent cases if improperly handled and any single case rim drops in behind the ejector star.

When ALL humans are confronted with danger they undergo a stress transformation known colloquially as "Fight or Flight" during which fine motor coordination evaporates to be replaced by increased gross motor strength. Vision and hearing tend to "narrow" and the person becomes highly focused on the threat. All of these NORMAL and CANNOT BE MODIFIED human responses work AGAINST the mechanical "deficiencies" of the the double-action revolver.

This is WHY semiautomatic pistols long ago became the military standard...they have FEWER inherent mechanical weaknesses.

Many who choose to carry a DA revolver for self defense will claim, "none of this applies to ME," yet of course ALL of it applies because it is ALL beyond the control of anyone...the gun is made the way it is made and functions the way it functions...the shooter cannot "train" to overcome this BECAUSE the shooter him(her)self becomes the WEAK LINK during the stress of a lethal encounter.

Now, do DA revolvers fail every time? Nope, just as INTERNAL LOCKS do not fail...anywhere near as often as human frailty induces a malfunction. So if you're going to own and/or carry a revolver for self-defense there is no reason not to choose one with an internal lock other than popularity or supposition.

Statistically, the MOST RELIABLE repeating handgun one can choose is the SINGLE ACTION! It CANNOT suffer any of the operator induced failures mentioned above, and it can't shoot fast enough to get hot enough to cause BC-cylinder binding. A single-action is a guaranteed six shots, whereas a double-action is only guaranteed ONE shot - same as the autoloader.

 

[SJshooter]

I understand the timing check, have done it more times than Carter's has little pills (remember that?). But I don't understand the dragging of the finger on the cylinder or ejector rod.

This just slows down the timing so you can really hear it. Great tip for beginners until they know what they are listening/looking for.

 

[vipermd]

+1 on Speer 135 gr +p short barrel Gold dots. Speed strips are nice because they are flat, I am used to speed loaders. Be Safe,

 

[71velle]

Interestingly, one day the "lock" models will be the ones worth extra money...it always happens that way with firearms!

Don't let the internal lock dissuade you from owning a very good firearm.

A lot of hooey is made of the possibility that the lock can somehow engage during a defensive shooting situation...that hyperbole ignores the salient fact that ALL revolvers including ALL that came before the internal lock model S&W's are capable of OPERATOR INDUCED malfunction that is far more likely to happen in a real-life, stress-fire, shootin situation than the IL deciding to deploy itself.
ALL DA revolvers can be short-stroked causing the cylinder to advance without the hammer being cocked - NO FIRE!
ALL DA revolvers can be short-stroked causing the hammer's DA lever to jam against the trigger sear resulting in LOCK-UP with the cylinder, hammer, and trigger "locked" until the operator releases pressure.
ALL DA revolvers can and WILL fail to return the cylinder to full lock if improperly handled during ejection of spent cases and powder debris gets between the crane and frame.
ALL DA revolvers can and WILL BIND UP once heat build-up causes the forcing cone to expand and contact the cylinder face! This will happen FASTER on a Ruger than a S&W due to Ruger's generally smaller BC gap, and will also tend to happen faster on magnum calibers, especially the .357 magnum when firing "real" .357 loads.
ALL DA revolvers can and WILL become inoperable during the ejection of spent cases if improperly handled and any single case rim drops in behind the ejector star.

When ALL humans are confronted with danger they undergo a stress transformation known colloquially as "Fight or Flight" during which fine motor coordination evaporates to be replaced by increased gross motor strength. Vision and hearing tend to "narrow" and the person becomes highly focused on the threat. All of these NORMAL and CANNOT BE MODIFIED human responses work AGAINST the mechanical "deficiencies" of the the double-action revolver.

This is WHY semiautomatic pistols long ago became the military standard...they have FEWER inherent mechanical weaknesses.

Many who choose to carry a DA revolver for self defense will claim, "none of this applies to ME," yet of course ALL of it applies because it is ALL beyond the control of anyone...the gun is made the way it is made and functions the way it functions...the shooter cannot "train" to overcome this BECAUSE the shooter him(her)self becomes the WEAK LINK during the stress of a lethal encounter.

Now, do DA revolvers fail every time? Nope, just as INTERNAL LOCKS do not fail...anywhere near as often as human frailty induces a malfunction. So if you're going to own and/or carry a revolver for self-defense there is no reason not to choose one with an internal lock other than popularity or supposition.

Statistically, the MOST RELIABLE repeating handgun one can choose is the SINGLE ACTION! It CANNOT suffer any of the operator induced failures mentioned above, and it can't shoot fast enough to get hot enough to cause BC-cylinder binding. A single-action is a guaranteed six shots, whereas a double-action is only guaranteed ONE shot - same as the autoloader.

If you read post # 15 you will see that I would have gotten a lock model it the no lock was not available. Both were so I chose the no lock. The lock setting it self was a smaller concern for me. I was more concerned about 1. counting on a lock to keep it "safe" and 2. if used if forgeting to unlock it prior to use.

Your list of failures is quite long but I would rather take my chances with a revolver than an auto. All day, every day and twice on Sunday.lol I haven't shot too many revolver or autos but have had stoppages with a few autos (quality ones) and none with a revolver.

The guns that I buy with the idea I might carry the back end value means nothing to me. But, the initial price really doesn't either.