I think I know what this is...but...

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I'm not 100% sure. I think it is a pre-1957 K38. There is no model number stamped behind the yoke, and it has 4 screws in the side plate and one on the front of the grip frame but none on the front of the trigger guard.

The serial number is K194XXX. It shows some pretty significant holster wear on the barrel, front edges of the cylinder and frame, and even on the ejector rod. It also has a very obvious turn line - so it appears to have been both carried AND shot quite a bit. I couldn't tell if the stag grips are the real thing or not - but there is a small chip in the edge of the left one - as you can see in the photo.

But the lockup is tight, the bore is bright, and end-shake seems minimal, so it should at least be a good shooter. Assuming I am right in my identification, is it worth the $400 asking price? Sorry for the crappy cell-phone pictures. It was all I had with me....
 

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If you like it, my answer would be yes, 400 is a good price for that gun.You don't see them every day, but I would offer slightly less, I always do, all they can say is no...
 
The serial number puts it as a 1953 shipped gun, and I think the stocks are plastic imitation stag. Still a pretty good deal at $400 if mechanically sound.
 
I'm not 100% sure. I think it is a pre-1957 K38. There is no model number stamped behind the yoke, and it has 4 screws in the side plate and one on the front of the grip frame but none on the front of the trigger guard.

The serial number is K194XXX. It shows some pretty significant holster wear on the barrel, front edges of the cylinder and frame, and even on the ejector rod. It also has a very obvious turn line - so it appears to have been both carried AND shot quite a bit. I couldn't tell if the stag grips are the real thing or not - but there is a small chip in the edge of the left one - as you can see in the photo.

But the lockup is tight, the bore is bright, and end-shake seems minimal, so it should at least be a good shooter. Assuming I am right in my identification, is it worth the $400 asking price? Sorry for the crappy cell-phone pictures. It was all I had with me....

Looks like a ok shooter, the grips I'm sure are not original to the gun, they look like cheap plastic to me. The gun was probably made around 1953 and would be a Pre-M-15, not a
K-38 as a K-38 would have a 6 inch barrel, the same gun with the 4 inch barrel would be called a Pre-M-15 barrel.

As to it's value, it wouldn't be worth 400. to me but some guys may pay that just tp play with it.

To bad someone X'ed out the last three numbers ? being that there gone there would be no way to do any more research on it.
H. M. Pope
 
If its a 4 screw sideplate there will be a screw in front of the trigger guard unless its a j frame.Is it a 6 shot cylinder?
 
From your description and pictures the gun looks to have honest wear from use, not abuse, after all it is over 60 years old, the grips can be replaced with others you like for minimum cost, these K-38s in target or combat are some of my favorites and are fine shooters, if it helps I just paid 500 for one from 1952 in beautiful shape which was in my opinion a good price.
 
Too bad someone X'ed out the last three numbers ? being that there gone there would be no way to do any more research on it.
H. M. Pope
I X-ed them out in the photo - the numbers are there, but I thought they didn't have any significance in terms of ID-ing the gun. Just a habit not to show the whole serial number. I can tell you what they are if it will enable you to provide more info on the gun.

If its a 4 screw sideplate there will be a screw in front of the trigger guard unless its a j frame.Is it a 6 shot cylinder?
You're sure about that? It is definitely a K frame 6 shot - not a J frame. I looked at 3 or 4 guns while I was there, but I was 95% sure this one didn't have the screw in front of the trigger guard. Is it worth significantly more if its 5 screw?

I'm torn on this one guys. I've already got a J-frame and I'm not sure I really need another 38 special - unless the price is just too good to pass up - which this one doesn't seem to be at $400. Maybe if I can talk them down to $350 OTD taxes, transfer fees, and all...
 
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Maybe it's just the low-res photos, but I don't see a trademark on the sideplate or the four-line address block on the frame in front of the sideplate. Are they there? If not, they have probably been polished off. I have the feeling this gun may have been refinished. If it was completely healthy but slightly worn, $400 would be somewhere between a good price and a steal. If it has been touched up or cosmetically improved, I think I'd let it pass me by.
 
First, lets clear up a few facts.

1) The first of the five screws eliminated was the upper sideplate screw around 1955. The trigger guard screw was eliminated around 1961, so it is (or should be) a 5 screw.

2) It is not a J frame as the serial number starts with a K and no J frame guns have a K serial number prefix. K frame guns traditionally have target sights.

3) K 194XXX should have been produced around 1953, so it should have all 5 screws and not be model marked.

I agree that the photos do not clearly show an emblem or the 4 line address so refinish may be a possibility. Absent of a trigger guard screw, I have no clue what this gun is.

All numbers and letters of a serial number are necessary to date a gun exactly. There are some folks that are paranoid that if you display all of the numbers that someone will claim that the gun is stolen and you will end up losing the gun. In 40+ years of collecting, I have never heard a first hand account of this happening. (Just be careful if you hear blackhawk helicopters hovering around your house) :eek:
 
This gun is not refinished. The logo and address are there.
 
First, lets clear up a few facts.

1) The first of the five screws eliminated was the upper sideplate screw around 1955. The trigger guard screw was eliminated around 1961, so it is (or should be) a 5 screw.
I must be mistaken about the 5th screw then. Like I said, I looked at several guns all at the same time and it must've been one of the others that I checked and "confirmed" it had no screw in front of the trigger guard.


2) It is not a J frame as the serial number starts with a K and no J frame guns have a K serial number prefix.
Makes sense

K frame guns traditionally have target sights.
Unless they are a model 10, right?

3) K 194XXX should have been produced around 1953, so it should have all 5 screws and not be model marked.
Correct - no model mark

I agree that the photos do not clearly show an emblem or the 4 line address so refinish may be a possibility. Absent of a trigger guard screw, I have no clue what this gun is.
Both the logo and address are there - its just my lousy photos. I looked long and hard at the finish, no signs of pitting or any kind of metalworking marks that I could see. Trigger and hammer are the correct color of case-hardening.

All numbers and letters of a serial number are necessary to date a gun exactly. There are some folks that are paranoid that if you display all of the numbers that someone will claim that the gun is stolen and you will end up losing the gun. In 40+ years of collecting, I have never heard a first hand account of this happening. (Just be careful if you hear blackhawk helicopters hovering around your house) :eek:
OK, well, the 3 X-ed out digits are 356 so the full serial number is K194356

I'm kind of surprised no one has commented on the trigger shoe. I guess that shows how really bad the pictures are ;)
 
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Unless they are a model 10, right?

My bad, just proving that you must be careful writing and reading the written word. I meant to say frames bearing a K prefix serial number are typically target guns. (Not all K frames) In my defense, it was early and my pup decided that 1 AM should be playtime.:eek:
 
This was very informative
Indeed.

So, because of the short barrel it wouldn't be considered a target masterpiece? So then would it be a combat masterpiece? And either way, with the amount of wear its showing, its not really worth more than what they are asking for it - unless maybe the grips are real?

BTW, how would you tell of they are real vs. plastic? Would you have to take them off? Would plastic grips be hollow instead of solid slabs?
 

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