What Is Your Zero?

[Ricer2231]

What scope do you have that dictates where it's zeroed?

A Vortex Crossfire II with BDC. Not that it actually dictates where I zero it at that's just where the BDC chart has the yardages set up for. I'm sure that makes it clear as mud! Haha


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[Skeptic 9c]

Open sights 25 meters military standard. Optics I follow the manufacturers recommendations, especially with BDC scopes of various kinds.

SWaMPy AR15 Sport 55 gr rounds.

Geoff
Who is hunting for a scope...so much glass so little money...sigh...

 

[LimaCharlie]

If you ignore the shooter's capability, where the bullet hits depends on the gun, the barrel length, the round, the bullet design, the wind direction and speed, the altitude you are at, the temperature, the humidity, the vertical angle, and the direction you are shooting compared to the earth's rotation. No two guns will hit exactly the same. For practical purposes if you zero a high power rifle at 200 yards, you can hold on target from zero yards to around 250 yards without any hold under or hold over with open sights or optics. If you go to the Winchester Ammo web site, there is a ballistics calculator available for download to a smart phone. Unfortunately, it only works for Winchester ammo. You can compare different rounds, different zeros, and different wind speeds to see a visual graph of the bullet(s) flight.

Winchester Ammunition

 

[Maddmax]

200 yard zero that gets you 300 yards with no hold-over? Magic bullet?

No. More like a higher end scope starting in the $450-$500.+ range and reloading. You can get programs to download on your phone (or PC) and dial in bullet weights,yardage,fps...all kinds of handy stuff. Then it tells you where to dial your scope in. My Nikons all have adjustable yardage and windage with return to zero with side focus for yardage. At one time there was a small boatload of long range shooters on here trading notes that were stretching their Sports past the 2-300 yard mark wackin' Pdog size targets easy and working on different bullet weight and powder charges in their reloads.

 

[CrustyShellback]

OMG, I've been transported back and am stuck in 1989. That's why I feel hungover... my body is having flashbacks to! Of course I walked into a trajectory thread, what did I expect?

Today is the day! Going to pick up my M&P 15 this morning and hopefully get our youngest son, out to the range. Though he wants to head out to the Elk Preserve... there's a several hundred acres behind it, where people go out to shoot. It's nice, because you don't have to call for line breaks, no rangemaster, usually no one else there. Though I expect today to be different, with the holiday.

Going to zero both my Mini and AR, to 50 yds... see how it goes.

 

[Maddmax]

A Vortex Crossfire II with BDC. Not that it actually dictates where I zero it at that's just where the BDC chart has the yardages set up for. I'm sure that makes it clear as mud! Haha

My Nikons do that too. Has different "cross hairs" for windage and elevation above and below what your actual zero is in 50 yard increments.
Spot on for range.

What I like. If you know the size of your target,you can use the lines to adjust to the right distance to target.

 

[Rastoff]

A Vortex Crossfire II with BDC. Not that it actually dictates where I zero it at that's just where the BDC chart has the yardages set up for. I'm sure that makes it clear as mud! Haha

Actually, that's perfectly clear. What we've run into here is a different understanding of terminology. What you describe is indeed hold-over. You're just using the markings on your reticle. Nothing wrong with that. Just be aware that those markings are not exact. It all depends on the load.

No. More like a higher end scope starting in the $450-$500.+ range and reloading.

The price of the scope is irrelevant. You can adjust for elevation and wind on any scope. With the calculations it's easy to adjust for distance. This is why I prefer uncapped turrets. This is where the value comes in for the more expensive scopes. Their turrets are precision made and return to zero with more repeatability.

Just for the record, a $500 scope is not a "high end" tool. It's really easy to spend a boat load on a scope. Just look up a Nightforce or Swarovski.

What I like. If you know the size of your target,you can use the lines to adjust to the right distance to target.

Yep, this is called ranging. With some simple math you can determine the distance to target with your reticle. Then it's easy to either hold-over or adjust for elevation. This is why I prefer the mrad sub-tensions on the reticle. It makes the ranging calculation much easier.

 

[Culina]

200 yard zero that gets you 300 yards with no hold-over? Magic bullet?

Nope, 69gr Sierra HPBTM on top of 25.5gr of Varget, 16" M4orgery with an aimpoint pro. If I can put them all in a 3" circle at 100 yards, a 5" circle at 200 and an 8" circle at 300 yards, I am happy. So far that works with having to adjust point of aim. No magic just practicality.

 

[Maddmax]

Actually, that's perfectly clear. What we've run into here is a different understanding of terminology.

The price of the scope is irrelevant. You can adjust for elevation and wind on any scope. Their turrets are precision made and return to zero with more repeatability.

Just for the record, a $500 scope is not a "high end" tool. It's really easy to spend a boat load on a scope. Just look up a Nightforce or Swarovski.

DIDN'T SAY HIGH END ! I said higher end scope starting in the $450-$500 range. The elevation is already built in to the scopes cross hairs I have,you zero and dial in from there for bullet weight or caliber. Some have a ranging dial on the left side of the scope that also is used to focus for the range you "dial in", NOT to be confused with magnification at the rear of the scope or confussed being able to adjust for parallax from the front of the scope either. The turrets are presion made,adjust by lifting the caps,water tight,locking and are repetitive to zero. I don't buy my equipment or "high end tools" at Walley World"....

I don't need to look up Nightforce,Swarovski to know you can spend a boatload on a scope.
.

 

[Maddmax]

Nope, 69gr Sierra HPBTM on top of 25.5gr of Varget, 16" M4orgery with an aimpoint pro. If I can put them all in a 3" circle at 100 yards, a 5" circle at 200 and an 8" circle at 300 yards, I am happy. So far that works with having to adjust point of aim. No magic just practicality.

Amazing how well that can work. Simple and you don't need a degree in math or engineering to do it. Toss a little dust in the air to check the wind,lick your finger and wipe off the front sight and shoot the dang thing.

 

[CrustyShellback]

I'm curious... all you guys that shoot 69gr and above... are you all reloaders?

I just never see anything above 62gr on shelves.

 

[Culina]

I'm curious... all you guys that shoot 69gr and above... are you all reloaders?

I just never see anything above 62gr on shelves.

On the highpower line, from what I have seen, over 90% of the marksmen are using their own handloads. Off the shelf match ammo is about $1 a round, last time I checked, I was making my own reloads for about $0.25 a round.

Gun shops carry what sells, not a lot of people are willing to spend $1 a round for .223, those that need it usually roll their own.

 

[bhayles]

I'm curious... all you guys that shoot 69gr and above... are you all reloaders?

I just never see anything above 62gr on shelves.

If you have a Sport, S&W says the 1:9 5R rifling will stabilize a bullet that weighs up to 68 gr. Heavier than that needs a faster twist.

 

[Chew]

If you have a Sport, S&W says the 1:9 5R rifling will stabilize a bullet that weighs up to 68 gr. Heavier than that needs a faster twist.

The sports 1:9 barrel isn't 5R. The old 1:8 barrel was 5R.

Not that the 5R amounts to a hill of beans anyway, IMO.




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[JoseVazquez76]

I have a 25 50 100 200 300 yard zero. If I am 25 yards and want to shoot at 50 yards I go to my range book a few clicks here and there then all of a sudden I am now at 50 yard zero and so on and so on

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[ChattanoogaPhil]

200 yard zero that gets you 300 yards with no hold-over? Magic bullet?

The poster was using handloads, but for the rest of us.... It depends on the amount of variance you're willing to work with.

Lots of variables... but just generally speaking using a 62gr bullet at 3020fps... M855

With a 50/200yd zero the bullet path will travel less than 2in above and below line of sight out to 250yds and will be about 6in below line of sight at 300yds.

With a 25 meter zero the bullet path will be about 6in above line of sight at 120yds, 8in above at 200yds, 7in above at 250yds and about 5in above at 300yds. And if some are using 25yds instead of meters the bullet path difference from line of sight is even greater.

Curious you're not asking about that magic bullet theory for those posting about their 25 meter zero?

Without adjusting point of aim (holdover) what bullet path would you rather have out to 300yds, 25meter or 50yd zero for point and click shooting?

 

[Maddmax]

I'm curious... all you guys that shoot 69gr and above... are you all reloaders?

I just never see anything above 62gr on shelves.

I can't answer for everyone. But yes I reload. I do it for the lower cost,more consistant loads and the enjoyment. Finding bullets,powder and primers (of choice),can be a real scavenger hunt in these times for the people that weren't prepared before hand.

I load and shoot different twist rates (1-7,1-8,1-9,1-10),barrel lengths (16" to 24"),also different calibers in semi auto and bolt action. Not to mention handguns. Been reloading over 40+ years,pleasure shooting semi competition (when I had the time) and collecting well over 52+ years. I just retired and now have the time to get back into the competition with the serious shooters.

Part of the fun of reloading is finding the right match to your twist rate,bullet weight and fps. One of my rifles hates anything over 55 grain in a 1-10 twist and shoots best with 52-53 gr BTHP.

 

[ChattanoogaPhil]

Hey Crusty,

Not a bottleneck reloader (straight wall is the limitation of my talent) nor match shooter, but if you're looking for some ammo with heavier bullets SGAmmo has a selection of 69, 75 and 77gr in stock from various manufactures. They are good to do business with.

223 / 5.56mm | SGAmmo.com

 

[Rastoff]

Curious you're not asking about that magic bullet theory for those posting about their 25 meter zero?

Without adjusting point of aim (holdover) what bullet path would you rather have out to 300yds, 25meter or 50yd zero for point and click shooting?

Maybe I'm just picky. When I hear someone say, "...with no hold-over," I take them at face value and think that they think the bullet will hit at the center for all yardages mentioned. I guess I'm being too literal.

For me, based on what I'd call "point and click" shooting, I think the 50 yard zero delivers the best range of use. That zero will give me center of mass hits out to 250 yards. 300 yards if I put the dot/cross at the top of the target. At 7 yards it will hit about 2" low. Or, if using an EOTech, the bottom of the circle will be dead on at 7 yards.

 

[ChattanoogaPhil]

For me, based on what I'd call "point and click" shooting, I think the 50 yard zero delivers the best range of use. That zero will give me center of mass hits out to 250 yards. 300 yards if I put the dot/cross at the top of the target. At 7 yards it will hit about 2" low. Or, if using an EOTech, the bottom of the circle will be dead on at 7 yards.

My H1 has a 2moa dot. 50yd zero is center of the dot. So at 250yds I can start using the bottom of the dot and only be about 3in low out to 300yds. But that's pretty much beyond what I expect from me and my rifle. In this neck of the woods... well.... its pretty much all woods and other than during winter ya can't see 5yds beyond the tree line. The bad guy would have to be on the highway jumping up and down hollering "I'm here I'm here" to make much use of anything beyond these distances. But if I lived out in the desert I'd probably rethink my zero and/or choice of optic.