Tex1001
Member
This is a slight update to a thread that I posted a year ago.
I read a while back the thread about car dealership nightmares. I thought that a thread about air conditioners might save a few people some money and anguish. I have operated my own residential/commercial company on the side for 33 years (30 of them profitably). I taught refrigeration technology at the local college for 8 years. Here are some bits of wisdom for non-technical residential homeowners:
Note:A/C manufacturers don't want you to know this, but residential A/C units are built to operate in a max outside temperature of 95 degrees F. How about that southern and western states?
1) THE $50 A/C TUNEUP COUPONS YOU GET IN THE MAIL OR ON YOUR DOORKNOB ARE NOT NECESSARILY A SCAM.
At the start of the A/C season, they are a good way to meet new or potential customers. Components that are failing or suspicious looking can be spotted before they fail and cost big bucks. An honest tech will let you watch him work and he should be able to answer questions using non-technical terms. Any parts replaced should be left with the homeowner for inspection.
2) OUTSIDE SUMMER TEMPERATURES DICTATE HEAD PRESSURES.
Low pressure means low refrigerant charge. A tech should tell you whether you need refrigerant based on an outside temperature reading, and doing a quick calculation, then taking a pressure reading.
3) FREON DOESN'T “WEAR OUT”. THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A “FREON WEEVIL.”
I still meet people who have been told something similar by a sleazy operator. It makes me cringe. Refrigerants will last forever if correctly charged and there are no system leaks. An honest tech will point out a leak to you.
4) A TINY R-22 LEAK ISN'T, BY FEDERAL LAW, REQUIRED TO BE FIXED.
These systems can have refrigerant added. This applies to R-22 and other “Molecular” refrigerants. R-22 is typically used in systems more than 5 years old.
5) A LEAK ON AN R-410a SYSTEM, HOWEVER, MUST BE REPAIRED.
The new refrigerant, R-410a, is a “Binary”. If you have even a small leak, the system MUST be recovered, repaired, evacuated, and recharged with NEW refrigerant or it will not cool properly.
6) WATER LEAKING FROM AN A/C UNIT (FURNACE) MEANS A CLOGGED CONDENSATE DRAIN.
A/C systems condense water (Humidity) out of your living area. This, along with the “Cooling” is what makes you comfortable. When this drain pipe is not draining (Think: Off season) mold can and does build up inside. A completely clogged drain must be blown out. A cup of old fashioned chlorine bleach poured down the drain every three months will inhibit mold. The A/C tech will show you where this drain is.
7) CLEANING YOUR CONDENSER (OUTSIDE) COIL IS VITAL.
Your condenser can't operate if it is clogged with grass cuttings, dust, or dog hair. A condenser can be cleaned with a garden hose with a sprayer head. Spray parallel with the cooling fins. The condenser must be powered down. Never spray water on an operating condenser. Bent fins should be carefully straightened. A small flat screwdriver and needle nose pliers will work.
8) CHANGING YOUR FURNACE FILTER EVERY 3 MONTHS IS VITAL.
A clogged filter will restrict cooling. It can also burn out a fan motor. Check the filter each month by holding it up to a strong light. If you can't see any light through the filter, replace it.
9) NEVER OPERATE YOUR A/C OR FURNACE WITHOUT A FILTER.
Running your A/C without a filter means that the crud your filter would have caught will pile up on your evaporator coil where it can't be removed unless the furnace is dismantled (Big bucks). Don't run filterless for a day, or even an hour.
10) MODERATING INSIDE TEMP SETTINGS CAN SAVE ELECTRICITY.
If you can stand to set your inside temp at 78 deg in summer and 68 deg in winter you can save 10%-30% on electricity costs.
11) PROGRAMMABLE THERMOSTAT CAN SAVE ELECTRICITY.
If you are on a regular schedule to leave and return, a programmable thermostat can let indoor temps rise or fall and still have the indoors back to comfort levels when you return. They must be installed properly. They need a common electrical control supply line run. Mechanical thermostats do not need this common line. This installation must be done by someone with electrical knowledge or disaster could result.
12) INSULATION CAN SAVE ELECTRICITY.
13) ATTIC VENTS CAN SAVE ELECTRICITY.
A good set of attic vent fans can lower the attic temp by 30 degrees, but only if you keep your soffet (Under eave) vents clean. A temp switch on each fan set to 95-100 degrees, along with a timer (Set to turn off 1 hour after sunset and on at dawn) will optimize power consumption. Motor bearings must be lubricated every 2 years or so. Attic vent fans keep ductwork and the furnace working at their best. The attic temp rise is largely a function of sun light (Infrared) hitting the roof. That's why you get 30+ degree differential. Older motors draw 5-6 amps each because they are shaded pole motors. Newer ones (You can get them at your Depot should be split phase. permanent split capacitor types. They have the same CFM output, but draw 2-3 amps each. The newer motors are worth the upgrade if you can do the install yourself.
14) WINDOW SHADES OR REFLECTIVE FILM CAN SAVE ELECTRICITY.
15) LIGHT COLORED ROOF SHINGLES REFLECT MORE INFRA RED THAN DARK ONES.
16) IF YOUR CONDENSER UNIT IS IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT IT WILL SHORTEN ITS LIFE.
_______________________
I don't have Alzheimer's- My wife had me tested.
I read a while back the thread about car dealership nightmares. I thought that a thread about air conditioners might save a few people some money and anguish. I have operated my own residential/commercial company on the side for 33 years (30 of them profitably). I taught refrigeration technology at the local college for 8 years. Here are some bits of wisdom for non-technical residential homeowners:
Note:A/C manufacturers don't want you to know this, but residential A/C units are built to operate in a max outside temperature of 95 degrees F. How about that southern and western states?
1) THE $50 A/C TUNEUP COUPONS YOU GET IN THE MAIL OR ON YOUR DOORKNOB ARE NOT NECESSARILY A SCAM.
At the start of the A/C season, they are a good way to meet new or potential customers. Components that are failing or suspicious looking can be spotted before they fail and cost big bucks. An honest tech will let you watch him work and he should be able to answer questions using non-technical terms. Any parts replaced should be left with the homeowner for inspection.
2) OUTSIDE SUMMER TEMPERATURES DICTATE HEAD PRESSURES.
Low pressure means low refrigerant charge. A tech should tell you whether you need refrigerant based on an outside temperature reading, and doing a quick calculation, then taking a pressure reading.
3) FREON DOESN'T “WEAR OUT”. THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A “FREON WEEVIL.”
I still meet people who have been told something similar by a sleazy operator. It makes me cringe. Refrigerants will last forever if correctly charged and there are no system leaks. An honest tech will point out a leak to you.
4) A TINY R-22 LEAK ISN'T, BY FEDERAL LAW, REQUIRED TO BE FIXED.
These systems can have refrigerant added. This applies to R-22 and other “Molecular” refrigerants. R-22 is typically used in systems more than 5 years old.
5) A LEAK ON AN R-410a SYSTEM, HOWEVER, MUST BE REPAIRED.
The new refrigerant, R-410a, is a “Binary”. If you have even a small leak, the system MUST be recovered, repaired, evacuated, and recharged with NEW refrigerant or it will not cool properly.
6) WATER LEAKING FROM AN A/C UNIT (FURNACE) MEANS A CLOGGED CONDENSATE DRAIN.
A/C systems condense water (Humidity) out of your living area. This, along with the “Cooling” is what makes you comfortable. When this drain pipe is not draining (Think: Off season) mold can and does build up inside. A completely clogged drain must be blown out. A cup of old fashioned chlorine bleach poured down the drain every three months will inhibit mold. The A/C tech will show you where this drain is.
7) CLEANING YOUR CONDENSER (OUTSIDE) COIL IS VITAL.
Your condenser can't operate if it is clogged with grass cuttings, dust, or dog hair. A condenser can be cleaned with a garden hose with a sprayer head. Spray parallel with the cooling fins. The condenser must be powered down. Never spray water on an operating condenser. Bent fins should be carefully straightened. A small flat screwdriver and needle nose pliers will work.
8) CHANGING YOUR FURNACE FILTER EVERY 3 MONTHS IS VITAL.
A clogged filter will restrict cooling. It can also burn out a fan motor. Check the filter each month by holding it up to a strong light. If you can't see any light through the filter, replace it.
9) NEVER OPERATE YOUR A/C OR FURNACE WITHOUT A FILTER.
Running your A/C without a filter means that the crud your filter would have caught will pile up on your evaporator coil where it can't be removed unless the furnace is dismantled (Big bucks). Don't run filterless for a day, or even an hour.
10) MODERATING INSIDE TEMP SETTINGS CAN SAVE ELECTRICITY.
If you can stand to set your inside temp at 78 deg in summer and 68 deg in winter you can save 10%-30% on electricity costs.
11) PROGRAMMABLE THERMOSTAT CAN SAVE ELECTRICITY.
If you are on a regular schedule to leave and return, a programmable thermostat can let indoor temps rise or fall and still have the indoors back to comfort levels when you return. They must be installed properly. They need a common electrical control supply line run. Mechanical thermostats do not need this common line. This installation must be done by someone with electrical knowledge or disaster could result.
12) INSULATION CAN SAVE ELECTRICITY.
13) ATTIC VENTS CAN SAVE ELECTRICITY.
A good set of attic vent fans can lower the attic temp by 30 degrees, but only if you keep your soffet (Under eave) vents clean. A temp switch on each fan set to 95-100 degrees, along with a timer (Set to turn off 1 hour after sunset and on at dawn) will optimize power consumption. Motor bearings must be lubricated every 2 years or so. Attic vent fans keep ductwork and the furnace working at their best. The attic temp rise is largely a function of sun light (Infrared) hitting the roof. That's why you get 30+ degree differential. Older motors draw 5-6 amps each because they are shaded pole motors. Newer ones (You can get them at your Depot should be split phase. permanent split capacitor types. They have the same CFM output, but draw 2-3 amps each. The newer motors are worth the upgrade if you can do the install yourself.
14) WINDOW SHADES OR REFLECTIVE FILM CAN SAVE ELECTRICITY.
15) LIGHT COLORED ROOF SHINGLES REFLECT MORE INFRA RED THAN DARK ONES.
16) IF YOUR CONDENSER UNIT IS IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT IT WILL SHORTEN ITS LIFE.
_______________________
I don't have Alzheimer's- My wife had me tested.
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