Keeping your A/C operating and not getting ripped off

Tex1001

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This is a slight update to a thread that I posted a year ago.
I read a while back the thread about car dealership nightmares. I thought that a thread about air conditioners might save a few people some money and anguish. I have operated my own residential/commercial company on the side for 33 years (30 of them profitably). I taught refrigeration technology at the local college for 8 years. Here are some bits of wisdom for non-technical residential homeowners:

Note:A/C manufacturers don't want you to know this, but residential A/C units are built to operate in a max outside temperature of 95 degrees F. How about that southern and western states?

1) THE $50 A/C TUNEUP COUPONS YOU GET IN THE MAIL OR ON YOUR DOORKNOB ARE NOT NECESSARILY A SCAM.
At the start of the A/C season, they are a good way to meet new or potential customers. Components that are failing or suspicious looking can be spotted before they fail and cost big bucks. An honest tech will let you watch him work and he should be able to answer questions using non-technical terms. Any parts replaced should be left with the homeowner for inspection.
2) OUTSIDE SUMMER TEMPERATURES DICTATE HEAD PRESSURES.
Low pressure means low refrigerant charge. A tech should tell you whether you need refrigerant based on an outside temperature reading, and doing a quick calculation, then taking a pressure reading.
3) FREON DOESN'T “WEAR OUT”. THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A “FREON WEEVIL.”
I still meet people who have been told something similar by a sleazy operator. It makes me cringe. Refrigerants will last forever if correctly charged and there are no system leaks. An honest tech will point out a leak to you.
4) A TINY R-22 LEAK ISN'T, BY FEDERAL LAW, REQUIRED TO BE FIXED.
These systems can have refrigerant added. This applies to R-22 and other “Molecular” refrigerants. R-22 is typically used in systems more than 5 years old.
5) A LEAK ON AN R-410a SYSTEM, HOWEVER, MUST BE REPAIRED.
The new refrigerant, R-410a, is a “Binary”. If you have even a small leak, the system MUST be recovered, repaired, evacuated, and recharged with NEW refrigerant or it will not cool properly.
6) WATER LEAKING FROM AN A/C UNIT (FURNACE) MEANS A CLOGGED CONDENSATE DRAIN.
A/C systems condense water (Humidity) out of your living area. This, along with the “Cooling” is what makes you comfortable. When this drain pipe is not draining (Think: Off season) mold can and does build up inside. A completely clogged drain must be blown out. A cup of old fashioned chlorine bleach poured down the drain every three months will inhibit mold. The A/C tech will show you where this drain is.
7) CLEANING YOUR CONDENSER (OUTSIDE) COIL IS VITAL.
Your condenser can't operate if it is clogged with grass cuttings, dust, or dog hair. A condenser can be cleaned with a garden hose with a sprayer head. Spray parallel with the cooling fins. The condenser must be powered down. Never spray water on an operating condenser. Bent fins should be carefully straightened. A small flat screwdriver and needle nose pliers will work.
8) CHANGING YOUR FURNACE FILTER EVERY 3 MONTHS IS VITAL.
A clogged filter will restrict cooling. It can also burn out a fan motor. Check the filter each month by holding it up to a strong light. If you can't see any light through the filter, replace it.
9) NEVER OPERATE YOUR A/C OR FURNACE WITHOUT A FILTER.
Running your A/C without a filter means that the crud your filter would have caught will pile up on your evaporator coil where it can't be removed unless the furnace is dismantled (Big bucks). Don't run filterless for a day, or even an hour.
10) MODERATING INSIDE TEMP SETTINGS CAN SAVE ELECTRICITY.
If you can stand to set your inside temp at 78 deg in summer and 68 deg in winter you can save 10%-30% on electricity costs.
11) PROGRAMMABLE THERMOSTAT CAN SAVE ELECTRICITY.
If you are on a regular schedule to leave and return, a programmable thermostat can let indoor temps rise or fall and still have the indoors back to comfort levels when you return. They must be installed properly. They need a common electrical control supply line run. Mechanical thermostats do not need this common line. This installation must be done by someone with electrical knowledge or disaster could result.
12) INSULATION CAN SAVE ELECTRICITY.
13) ATTIC VENTS CAN SAVE ELECTRICITY.
A good set of attic vent fans can lower the attic temp by 30 degrees, but only if you keep your soffet (Under eave) vents clean. A temp switch on each fan set to 95-100 degrees, along with a timer (Set to turn off 1 hour after sunset and on at dawn) will optimize power consumption. Motor bearings must be lubricated every 2 years or so. Attic vent fans keep ductwork and the furnace working at their best. The attic temp rise is largely a function of sun light (Infrared) hitting the roof. That's why you get 30+ degree differential. Older motors draw 5-6 amps each because they are shaded pole motors. Newer ones (You can get them at your Depot should be split phase. permanent split capacitor types. They have the same CFM output, but draw 2-3 amps each. The newer motors are worth the upgrade if you can do the install yourself.
14) WINDOW SHADES OR REFLECTIVE FILM CAN SAVE ELECTRICITY.
15) LIGHT COLORED ROOF SHINGLES REFLECT MORE INFRA RED THAN DARK ONES.
16) IF YOUR CONDENSER UNIT IS IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT IT WILL SHORTEN ITS LIFE.
_______________________
I don't have Alzheimer's- My wife had me tested.
 
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What EER is most cost effective to purchase. It seems the higher the number, the higher the price. Any recommendations, brand wise? Thanks

(I know, simple question, complex answer :))
If (When) my A/C ever dies I will buy the highest SEER that I can afford. It will pay back the higher cost in electric savings. If you have to replace your condenser or system, ask your installer about a system that comes from the factory with a nitrogen charge instead of a R410a refrigerant charge. That way you can stay with an R22 system. The SEER rating will still apply. Systems using R410a utilize head pressures that are 50%(!!) above those in an R22 system. I don't think that R410a compressors will hold up.
I like Lennox and Arcoair. STAY AWAY FROM TRANE AT ALL COSTS. Trane's condensers are now all aluminum (Can't be repaired if punctured) and they have "Christmas tree bristles" that do not clean well.
_______________________
I don't have Alzheimer's- My wife had me tested.
 
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My own experience of 38 years in the apartment maintenance business confirms 100% of your recommendations. Like you I never liked Trane systems or the newer Bryant systems. I do like the Ruud/Rheem systems but many tech don't for some reason, maybe because if it is maintained with any regularity they last a long time. I had a complex of 140 units built in 1974, and sold it in August 2007, it still had close to 2/3 of the original units working. I also had an smaller complex (my mom owned) of 76 units built in 1971. It had Bryant furnaces and a/c's. She sold it about the same time as I did. These went through more fan motors (both furnace and a/c) but fewer compressors than the Rheem's did. I also worked for a long time at a complex with GE furnaces and a/c's. I have never seen such a high warranty replacement rate. But that could have been bad installers! I got a job after I sold my complex, because I knew how to work on the mid to late 70's Rheem a/c's and heat pumps, and so many techs out there don't.

Your comment about the high head pressure on R-410 systems is whole heartily agreed with by every Tech I talked with 10 years of experience!!! I saw some with 10 year compressor warranties, that might be OK. Ivan
 
What EER is most cost effective to purchase. It seems the higher the number, the higher the price. Any recommendations, brand wise? Thanks

(I know, simple question, complex answer :))

Are you looking for a window unit? If so? heres what ive looked at in the last few days. Imgetting another window unit--which is a Frigidaire (Great brand too) 8,000 BTU which will freeze 350 sq feet fast. The EER on the unit im buying in a week or so--is 11.3 or 11.7--I forget which? Im getting mine at a Sutherlands--lumber company--and have dne extensive window unit research locally. The price for this is incl tax--$260.00. They have a larger unit--I dont know the BTU but the EER is the same--for about $500--which is too big for my place. They have a smaller one 5,000 BTU--the EER is the same--and its for about $120.00.

I HAD been looking at one from WM--they had soe decent ones for about $100--I dont recall the BTU but the EER was only about a 7.something-or-other. Now they only one they (in my area carry) is oe that goes fro about $250.00 I dont know what the brand is? but not one I ever heard of.

The Best Buy in my area also sells them--but their prices are too frigging high. SEARs sells them, but prices too high ad--ive decleared war with SEARs because of what they did to me a couple months ago.
 
Dang...The house I just moved into has a Trane :/

We actually just had a tech come out and check it out, turns out the unit was working but the duct work under the house was ripped to shreds by stray cats who got in. Quick fix at least.

At least now when we set the thermostat at 74, the inside temperature reads 74 now, not 82 :p

Sent from my SGH-T769 using Tapatalk 2
 
Ivan, I forgot about Rheem/Ruud. Thanks.
The only problem with Lennox is that their electrical schematics cannot be deciphered by ANYBODY.
I understand that federal regs are mandating another refrigerant change (R39). R39 is a component of R410a, but is as flammable as propane. Things may be about to get interesting.
I wasn't a big fan of heat pumps until I moved into my present house and then set it up right.
I didn't think that anyone north of Mason/Dixon used A/C.
_______________________
I don't have Alzheimer's- My wife had me tested.
 
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Just turned mine on last week. Central. Ran for @ a half hour and quit. No breaker trip, fan worked fine.

The lock on the outside breaker box had not been touched in at least 15 years. Bolt cutters on the totally rusted Master. Breaker OK.

Check digital thermostat. Was working, now dark. Replace batteries. Nothing.

Pulled the thermostat off the mount, cleaned terminals and dust off everything. Replace, reprogram, now I have to put on warm clothes cause the constant 72 feels cold.:D
 
While I try to not go bananas with the AC, anything over 70 is utter misery. 66 is better. However, in the winter, 62 is as high as I go, and it goes down to 50-52 at night.
 
Come to Texas. You'll be a quick learner.
_______________________
I don't have Alzheimer's- My wife had me tested.


I spent a year in Texas one month. 1976 courtesy of the US Army (a real strange TDY thing in San Angelo).
 
I just took delivery of a fujitsu mini split. I know, it sounds like a strange yoga exercise or an exotic cocktail in a Bangkok nightclub....
but it is two very quiet airhandlers that wall mount ( 1 in livingroom 1 in bedroom)with the compressor unit mounted outside, downstairs away from my bedroom. A very quiet way to cool my presently 85 degree hacienda.
The technician is coming soon, I hope.....
 
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Saddest A/C story I'm involved with. A older lady from church wanted me to come by and service her a/c. I get there and it is some type of Trane 5 ton split usage unit I have never encountered before or since. The fan motor, compressor and electrical (24V and 220V) were all fine but there was a leak of good sized some place inside the walls of the house. Her husband was/is a small time builder and I knew he had a HVAC contractor so I declined to tare the walls out looking for an unknown leak. (This was in 1997 and she wanted me to just gas it up but I couldn't.) In August of 2003 or 04 she called me again with the same request. I ask "why not have the guy your husband had fix it before check it out?" He never had it fixed and the entire system was seized up. I figured I would never get paid if I put a new unit in. One of her 4 sons became a refrigeration service contractor for commercial walk-in freezers as well as residential apps. He fixed his mom up, in 2012.

In my home of 30 years, I have no A/C. It is a 120-130 year old farm house with 10' ceilings and a ceiling fan in every room and great flow through ventilation. Sometimes it gets pretty hot and humid in August but we go to a lot of movies and out to eat that time of year.

My oldest son lives in Beeville, Texas. They had a 96 degree day, in February this year and have broke 100 several times already. He had to get a whole new system last year, they were without a/c for 6 days in summer. The German wife almost past out several times and did twice. Ivan
 
My home a/c is on it's 20th season this year.

Only service ever done involves me removing the fan and motor, cleaning out the debris every year from the bottom of the unit making sure the drain holes are clear then sticking my leaf blower inside the unit blowing out all the debris that gets sucked into the fins.

I've never even added a fart of freon in all those years.

On 95* days the cooling vents read 58* here in 'Da Dank'.

I use my a/c sparingly, tho. I usually don't run it unless the temp gets above 85*. I have lots of shade trees around my crib.

I will run it at night when the temp doesn't drop below 70, cuz where I live 70* lows mean 95% humidity and I find that hard to sleep in.

"Da Dank" has 3- 2' x 3' glass panel skylights which remove 80% of sunlight generated heat which I cover with cardboard inserts during the hottest summer months. I still allow the light thru, just not all of it. I like my skylights especially during winter months.
 
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My system is thirteen years old and the unit outside is a Goodman and keeps the 1600 square foot house comfortable. Here is the problem that has just started. Every so often the blower will not come on and the pipe that brings the coolant into the house will get frost on it at the compressor and where the pipe inters the furnace. Monkey with the blower switches on the thermostat and give the furnace a whack and a way we go.

Going to have to call someone who knows what to do to fix it.
 
My system is thirteen years old and the unit outside is a Goodman and keeps the 1600 square foot house comfortable. Here is the problem that has just started. Every so often the blower will not come on and the pipe that brings the coolant into the house will get frost on it at the compressor and where the pipe inters the furnace. Monkey with the blower switches on the thermostat and give the furnace a whack and a way we go.

Going to have to call someone who knows what to do to fix it.

The frost on the pipe is probably a symptom of the blower not running. If the air isn't flowing across the coils at a good rate it can freeze up. I moved in a new house and the filter was clogged and the air was barely flowing and it would freeze up.

The capacitor and /or blower moter are easy to replace.
 
My fan motor started acting up a couple of Sundays ago so I called my friend. He came over Monday while I was at work and oiled it.

Fast forward to yesterday. Sunday again.

"Dang it's getting hot in here." I checked the fan and it was locked up pretty solid.

Called my friend and told him about it. He said. "I bought you a week with it."

I said, "You cost my wife another day from work, Thanks".

Last night I stuck to the bed, I was about 78 in the house and humid. We're getting afternoon thunderstorms almost daily this time of year.

He was here with a fan motor first thing this AM. He didn't charge me much.

I'll get him back. ;)
 

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