Gas Block

[bergermeister]

From what I can gather the MP-10 gas block is held in place by two Allan machine screws acting as a clamp. I understand that the gas tube is only attached by the roll pin in the gas block. If so, the gas block with pinned gas tube should slide forward off the barrel to allow replacement of the handgauard with a 9" free-float, and the removed gas assembly slid right back in place...eh?

 

[Fourth Horseman]

From what I can gather the MP-10 gas block is held in place by two Allan machine screws acting as a clamp. I understand that the gas tube is only attached by the roll pin in the gas block. If so, the gas block with pinned gas tube should slide forward off the barrel to allow replacement of the handgauard with a 9" free-float, and the removed gas assembly slid right back in place...eh?

Correct. It's very easy to remove. Spin the flash hider off, unscrew the block's clamping screws and the block and gas tube will pull straight off the barrel, over the muzzle.

 

[bergermeister]

Goodo; Let me press my luck further-

Correct. It's very easy to remove. Spin the flash hider off, unscrew the block's clamping screws and the block and gas tube will pull straight off the barrel, over the muzzle.

Thank you sir! Then this JP 9.25" floating handguard JP Rifles should fit the MP-10 and clear the stock gas block/sight base?

 

[M1ASupermatch]

Correct. It's very easy to remove. Spin the flash hider off, unscrew the block's clamping screws and the block and gas tube will pull straight off the barrel, over the muzzle.

I chuckled when I read this ^. The screws on mine were installed with loc-tite and the gunsmith and I ended up Dremiling off (cutting) the gas block. I'll be interested to hear what your ecpxperience was after you get it removed.

 

[copemech]

Prolly recommended to put the barrel in a vice clamp to remove the flash hider as they can be tight!

My front sight came right off easy, almost too easy! With the gas tube! And my barrel nut was loose! Thus the first recco!

Gotta pull the handguard retaining plate, whatever you call it, trash it and go for the rest. Most free floats come with a barrel nut, so you gotta set up for that.

Then you gotta deal with the issues of FS and gas block alignment upon re-assembly. As there will no longer be a plate there, and you want the front rail to line up with the rear, you gotta do the math!

Not sure just how critical the gas port alignment is with a .030 or so part missing, as they are designed oversize as compared to barrel, yet a possible factor.

Alignment is the other issue in a rotational sense, I just put my upper on a flat glass table to level front and rear rails before tightening so they are level.

My gun had issues from the start and my gas port measured .068 . I enlarged to .073 and it has run fine with all ammo since. Just FYI!

 

[Fourth Horseman]

I chuckled when I read this ^. The screws on mine were installed with loc-tite and the gunsmith and I ended up Dremiling off (cutting) the gas block. I'll be interested to hear what your ecpxperience was after you get it removed.

Interesting. Mine were just hand tight. No problem taking them out at all. Even with Loctite it shouldn't be that hard. At worst some heat and they should break free.

 

[bergermeister]

Try Heat...

I chuckled when I read this ^. The screws on mine were installed with loc-tite and the gunsmith and I ended up Dremiling off (cutting) the gas block. I'll be interested to hear what your ecpxperience was after you get it removed.

If heat did not break down the Loctite the binding probably was steel/aluminum galling?

 

[bergermeister]

You Be CORRECT!

Correct. It's very easy to remove. Spin the flash hider off, unscrew the block's clamping screws and the block and gas tube will pull straight off the barrel, over the muzzle.

Easy-Peasy Thanks