So, I wonder what difference that three inch barrel will make...

Lew Archer

Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2010
Messages
298
Reaction score
359
Location
Ventura County, CA
...in my new Model 36-1.

Longer barrel equals longer sight radius. Longer barrel means, maybe, more velocity, less unburned powder, perhaps better internal, external and terminal ballistic performance. Longer barrel means more weight out front...maybe better for balance, recoil management.

So the wisdom goes.

Of course, longer barrel means it's a bit more difficult to conceal, depending on the method used. More weight means somewhat less comfort, when carried all day.

I dropped by one of my local gunshops, Greta's Guns,in Simi Valley, California, on Friday. Greta is the owner's dog, by the way. The owner, a retired LAPD copper, runs a very nice shop.

I was not in the market for anything. Well then...what did I see but a very new looking Model 36, square butt, blue steel, fixed sights with a pinned three inch barrel. Its serial number puts production between 1976 and 1977, as does its Bangor Punta blue box.

The gun looks very lightly used. If the seller had cleaned it, it would appear almost NIB. Faint turn line and that's about it for visible wear. The wood grips, correct for this model and its vintage, looked brand new. The box had some damage, but included paperwork was like new. Clearly, no one read the manual!

Bore looked very clean. No wear to the finish at the muzzle, just a little on the thumb piece (cylinder release latch). Gently testing the action, I decided it was an awfully nice little J frame. In addition to the box, the seller was including an old half empty box of Western ammo...mid range wadcutters. According to the salesman, the owner fired half a box worth and called it a day.

Asking price was $650. I offered $600. A truly new in the box gun should be $650, plus an extra $20 for the three inch barrel, according to the latest blue book values. A 98 percent gun should fetch $535, plus $20 for that three inch barrel.

Ok, we're in California and used guns go for a bit more than blue book here, given some of the limitations...private party transfer only of guns not currently on the California DOJ roster of guns approved for sale in California.

So, I offered $600, splitting the difference, more or less, between 98 percent and 100 percent. I figured I'd offer a price where the seller would get pretty close to his asking price. The reduced price would off set the usual fees, taxes and such a little.

The salesman called the seller, who immediately accepted and I bought the gun. Now, for the 10 day wait.

I've often thought it might be interesting to compare a three inch Model 36 to its 2 inch (well, 1 7/8 inch, really) counterparts. Plus, any fancier of Smiths needs only a hint of a rationalization to add to the accumulation, er, collection.

I hardly NEED another J frame: I've got a like new Model 40 (blue steel frame Centennial with grip safety); a very clean flat latch, blue steel Model 36, stocked with the original grips (with that "diamond" around the grip screw escutcheon): a factory refinished and tuned Model 49, stocked with Spegel boot grips ; a first generation Model 642, stocked with Hogue Bantam grips (it came with Uncle Mikes grips that had finger grooves and covered the backstrap, a bit bulky for such a gun, though I've got them somewhere); a recent production, "no lock" 442, stocked with linen micarta VZ grips; a Model 60, stocked with Pachmayr compact grips; and a four inch Model 63, stocked with Pachmayr grips, complete with finger grooves. With the exception of the .22 caliber 63, all are .38 special and all have the 1 7/8 inch barrel. The 442, 642 and 49 were all purchased new. The rest were acquired used.

So, this new gun fills a clearly much needed niche in the J frame collection! That's my story and I am sticking to it!

It seems like a really handy little revolver. I'm curious if that extra barrel length really makes it significantly easier to shoot. The J frames are wonderful guns, but tough to master. One day, this might make a viable self defense gun for my daughter (she's only 8 now!). I bought that Model 63 to eventually teach her to shoot a revolver. The three inch 36 might make a good defensive gun for her, when the time comes, depending on her interest, with similar feel and manual of arms to the Model 63, if she doesn't fancy a semi-auto by then.

I will post pictures once I get this new gem home...I look forward to hearing anyone's experience with the three inch J frames!
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Bought that same gun for my wife in 1978. Still have it, box and all. Recoil is lower because the 3" barrel is more of a target and a good bit heavier than the 2". Barrel length does make a good bit of difference with a 38 Special, or any cartridge for that matter. Go on line and look up "ballistics by the inch" for the 38. Then buy some Buffalo Bore ammo for it. You will be somewhat amazed at the power.
 
I like the Model 36s with the 3-inch barrel. I don't really believe the 3-inch offers any advantage in ammunition performance over shorter barrels. That's my opinion, for whatever it's worth. I like the 3-inch for aesthetic reasons, and it does seem a bit easier to point for me than a shorter barrel. And round butt or square...makes absolutely no difference to me.
 
The 3" barrel to me is a bit more concealable s long as it is the standard barrel and not the heavy barrel. Just doesn't work as well in a pocket holster. The longer barrel makes retention in a holster a bit more secure. And, as Iggy said, the longer extractor rod allows more sure extraction.

There is a definite performance advantage, a bit more that the difference between a 3" and 4". If there truly was not a difference in performance between the 2" & 3" as WATCHDOG alleges, then there logically would be no difference going up to a 4", 6", etc, either, would there!! All it takes to find out that barrel length makes a difference is a chronograph.

The only disadvantage to the 3" is pocket carry, otherwise everything else is benefit!
 
I have shot a two inch model 64 alongside a four inch model 67...and found a very significant difference in ease of shooting. These were K frame .38s, of course. Even at close ranges, the extra barrel length and sight radius of the 67 (not to mention the adjustable sights) made accurate shooting easier then the two inch 64 with its fixed sights.

I don't recall that much of a difference between a three inch K frame .357 and four inch. I have Model 13s in both barrel lengths, and plan on trying them out with the same ammo, to see what difference it makes with two guns identical but for barrel length and the profile of the grip (square for the four inch, round for the three inch).
 
Last edited:
I have one and love that extra inch of heavy barrel. Guns shoot well and point naturally. I carry mine in a Lobo pancake and a Don Hume IWB #715.And a set of square butt oversize wood grips from Altamont. No pocket carry, but it's a great concealed weapon.

Go on Buffalo Bore's webpage and look at the difference between a 2 and a 3" barrel on velocity. I carry the 20C NON +P 158 LSWCHP. Buffalo Bore does their velocity testing with real weapons.

Buffalo Bore's website lists the above load at 854fps out of a 2"bbl. It lists the velocity of the same load out of a 3" barrel at 930fps. I've tested BB ammo over two different chronographs and found them to be whistling along as advertised.
 
Last edited:
I once owned a 3" 60-15, but found the extra inch to be nothing but a hindrance in the context of personal defense and concealed carry. Harder to carry, conceal, slower to bring into action and weapon retention was compromised all for being minimally more shootable and insignificant gains in accuracy at defense distances. Plus I had absolutely no need for single action capability and see it as a liability in a gun intended solely for defensive purposes.
 
The Buffalo Bore figures above are representative of the difference between snub and three-inch barrels that I obtained from other ammo makers. Generally, depending on the load and the gun, look for 60-80 feet higher velocity from the longer barrel.

The guns are also easier for most to shoot well, especially as distance increases. A target-sighted small gun like the M-60-4 is a good trail gun where you want relatively light weight and there's no need for vast power. But the Buffalo Bore 158 grain loads, esp. in hotter Plus P form, do provide considerable power, and the M-60-15, etc. and the Ruger SP-101 in .357 are even more potent, if difficult to shoot well for many rounds at once. But they are not target guns. They are practical emergency and food gathering guns.
 
Last edited:
The 3” J frames shoot real nice. I have three 3” 36’s and a 3” model 37. Most people seem to prefer the square butt. I like the round butt better, but that’s just me.

Sorry about that 10 day BS.
 

Attachments

  • 11 Mdl 36-1 3bbl p03.JPG
    11 Mdl 36-1 3bbl p03.JPG
    97.7 KB · Views: 58
Last edited:
I own a slew of 2" (or thereabouts) J frames but once I picked up a new 60-15 3" barrel version it seems that's all I shoot. The other J's are looking at me askance wondering when they will get their turn. I also carry it in a Lobo, but use his belt slide style.
q5d58pc
 
Last edited:
I find the 3" J-frames to be much easier to shoot well. As I usually carry IWB, the extra inch doesn't bother me. It makes a nice revolver for teaching new shooters, as well.
 
Congrats !
You will love that 3" Heavy barrel,
The 3" SB J frames feel totally different than the 2" snub round butts IMO kinda more like a miniature M&P especially with a nice set of J targets.

36-1 Heavy barrel side by side with a 3" Model 36 tapered barrel.


The Model 37 was also offered with a 3" tapered barrel although it apparently made no sense to offer a Heavy barrel 37,
Perhaps since the 37 is an "Airweight" .

all 3 SB versions for comparison (37 at top, 36 tapered center, 36-1 HB bottom)
 
Last edited:
Back
Top