Need 9mm reloading elp.

[Trigger9]

Would the 9mm reloading experts help a beginner with the proper recipes? If so, I do aopreciate the help.
I have already checked with the Alliant, Winchester & other companies for recipes, but received no info.

I understand that different combinations of components would constitute a different formula, is this correct?

Thanks,
Trigger9

 

[Vulcan Bob]

Things can get a bit confusing at times. The thing to do is to buy a good reloading manual of your choice and use the data within for your loads. Follow the data exactly and you will have no problems. However you may have to try several loads to find what your particular 9mm likes to eat. For example a load that works great in my gun may be a dismal failure in yours. With the 9mm pay particular attention to the bullet seating depth, a bullet set too deep can really spike pressures in that little case. The manual will tell you the correct seating depth for the bullet used. Buy a digital read caliper to accomplish this, they are not all that expensive these days. If possible find a experienced "mentor" to give you a hand.

 

[Bat99]

Start with a reloading manual. Read it. It will give you multiple recipes with different powders and bullet types/weights. Start with a minimum to medium charge (there will be a min/max to guide you).

As far as bullet types, generally the manuals will give you something like FMJ, LEAD, or XTP. Select the appropriate type. If you're using something like Berry's plated bullets, you'll need to use the LEAD bullet recommendation as Berry says the shouldn't be driven over 1259fps. That shouldn't be a huge concern with 9mm.

Have fun. That's the name of the game. Find something that works for your intended purpose, then see if you can improve it with subtle changes.

 

[rwsmith]

Good loading manuals...

Good loading manuals with 'how to' sections as well as load data.

I like the Speer and Lyman books (Lyman has more lead loads)

You HAVE to know the basics before you start. The loads are developed with certain, brass, bullets, primers and powder. It's hard to get the exact recipe but you learn to back off a little to allow for that. My Speer #14 says to use ONLY the components shown. Well, that is nigh impossible, especially with component shortages. Back off and work your load up.

Make sure you are using the right powder for the type of shooting you want to do. Some are formulated to be their best in auto pistols, but a lot of powders will WORK.

Are you going to plink, shoot targets at long range, short range, Some hunt with pistols but I doubt a 9mm makes a good hunting round, though some probably use it that way.

I have a S&W 3rd gen pistol that eats any load I've ever made. I have a kel tec that is VERY picky about ammo.

 

[Nevada Ed]

You are working with GUN POWDER !!

Lots of knowledge on this subject is a very GOOD THING !!

Beginners need to take baby steps..........learning as they go.
Read as many books and articles as you can find on your weapon and ammo, to start to understand what you are getting into.

Most loaders will NOT give out data.......... that is what loading manuals are for.

Stay safe.

 

[bigggbbruce]

I understand that different combinations of components would constitute a different formula, is this correct?

Thanks,
Trigger9

Uhh...yeah..!

Example.. Nosler 115gr JHP O.A.L. 1.100", Sierra 115gr JHP O.A.L. 1.055", Speer GDHP 115gr O.A.L. 1.125.

Powders to propel 115gr. HP38 4.7gr-5.1gr, H6 6.7gr-7.0gr, Bullseye 4.3gr-4.7gr..

You need to choose components and then work up loads with what you have.

 

[otisrush]

Be sure and ensure that the bullet you're using is set to a depth where it passes the "plunk" test in your barrel. After dropping the round into the chamber it should freely fall out of the chamber when you turn the barrel over - meaning the chamber is pointing down.

I think it's fair to say (others correct me if I'm wrong) that you want the depth to be as short as it needs to be - but not much shorter. Apparently 9mm pressures are already pretty high. The pressure goes up as COL goes down.

OR

 

[Vortec MAX]

Would the 9mm reloading experts help a beginner with the proper recipes? If so, I do aopreciate the help.
I have already checked with the Alliant, Winchester & other companies for recipes, but received no info.

Alliant should have recipes on their website. The Hodgdon website will have recipes for Winchester powders.

I will share some experience from my testing. The best performing powders were CFE Pistol, Power Pistol, and AutoComp. There are others that performed well too, but those three were standouts.

Mike

 

[gwpercle]

This is one area where the good old fashioned, paper and ink reloading manual beats the inter net and web site info six ways to Sunday.
Get three or four manuals and you will be good to go with just a bit of advice from us oldsters.
If you will be using cast bullets...The Layman Cast bullet Handbook is a great source. Lead requires different data than jacketed.
Speer , Hornady and Lyman are my first go to's . Lyman makes another manual that covers both cast and jacketed, just not in as much detail as the other.
It's good to have published data there in front of you, they also have reloading instructions , tips and information you will not see on a web site.
When I cook I use a recipe, when I reload I use loading data, some may disagree but that's what it was when I started reloading.
Gary

 

[Arub]

I have an old Alliant reloading manual and the following recipes are from it (I have also used the data for the jacketed loads) (max load data):

115gr FMJ 1.120 min OAL 4.7 grains Green Dot, or 5.5 grains Unique puts you into the approx. 1150 - 1170 ft/sec range.

125gr FMJ 1.125 min OAL 5.2 grains Green Dot (1150 ft/sec) or 4.9 grains Unique (1077 ft/sec).

I have recipes for other Alliant powders and other projectiles - pm me with what you are loading and I'll check to see if it is covered in this manual.

 

[fredj338]

The problem with a "recipe" in reloading is it requires you to use the exact components if you want the exact results. So a manual becomes just a guide, not recipe book, as few of us will ever load the EXACT components in the manual.
Bullets are rarely plug & play. A jacketed bullet is diff than a plated bullet is diff than a lead bullet. All will require diff reloading data for use at the upper end. If you never go above midrange, then things get more universal. Everything starts with a good reloading manual or three. Then use the online powder manuf as cross ref.
Also look for some older manuals at used book stores or yard sales. There are many powders listed then that are no longer in vogue with the advent of new powders. Yet many of these older type powders are still readily available for shotgun reloading & also handgun.

 

[joeintexas]

My guess is by now you can see the first thing most reloaders will recommend is a good manual then cross reference the reloading section of the powder companies. To really get a good safe load you will have to decide on powder, bullet type, lead, plated,fmj,rn,smc,wc, etc, and bullet weight. All of this determines the amount of powder to use. Not complicated but certainly a few things to consider. Everyone here will have their own powder preferences and there are a bunch out there for 9mm. Once you decide on powder and bullet weight it's pretty easy to go from there. Good folks here that will help you along.

 

[shotgun693]

Generally I use factory ammo for carry stuff but with my reloads I just want a round that will cycle the action every time and either poke a hole or ring a target. Therefor I generally stick to a fairly light load with a 9mm. That might change in the future but for now it works for me.

 

[flyrobb]

The problem with a "recipe" in reloading is it requires you to use the exact components if you want the exact results. So a manual becomes just a guide, not recipe book, as few of us will ever load the EXACT components in the manual.
Bullets are rarely plug & play. A jacketed bullet is diff than a plated bullet is diff than a lead bullet. All will require diff reloading data for use at the upper end. If you never go above midrange, then things get more universal. Everything starts with a good reloading manual or three. Then use the online powder manuf as cross ref.
Also look for some older manuals at used book stores or yard sales. There are many powders listed then that are no longer in vogue with the advent of new powders. Yet many of these older type powders are still readily available for shotgun reloading & also handgun.

This is so true! I started using Xtreme plated bullets but there isn't much data for that EXACT bullet but there are general guidelines so it can be confusing.

I often think when starting it would be easier to get a couple manuals, as suggested above, and buy components that match the data, in those manuals, so you have the correct data for that powder and bullet. Much less confusing that way, then when you get a little more comfortable with the process you learn to translate the data to other components.

This a great forum with members that are always willing to help with questions so don't hesitate to tap in to their knowledge. For every answer you get you'll have 5 more questions.

BTW, Western Powders has load data online as well. Hand loading can be an all consuming hobby so have fun and be careful.

 

[fredj338]

This is so true! I started using Xtreme plated bullets but there isn't much data for that EXACT bullet but there are general guidelines so it can be confusing.

I often think when starting it would be easier to get a couple manuals, as suggested above, and buy components that match the data, in those manuals, so you have the correct data for that powder and bullet. Much less confusing that way, then when you get a little more comfortable with the process you learn to translate the data to other components.

This a great forum with members that are always willing to help with questions so don't hesitate to tap in to their knowledge. For every answer you get you'll have 5 more questions.

BTW, Western Powders has load data online as well. Hand loading can be an all consuming hobby so have fun and be careful.

This is exactly what I recommend to new reloaders. Buy 1000 bullets that are the same or very sim to what is used in the manual. Load that 1000 with one powder & understand & learn the process. Then you can expand your knowledge loading slightly off book by switching bullets.

 

[Deadctr]

I started reloading a short time ago, about 5 years.

Hear what everyone is saying here. There is good information on this site.

Buy a RELOADING MANUAL, and read it, then read it again. Go slow. Be deliberate. Talk your way through it, out loud, (sounds stupid but it works).

There is a great wealth of information on the internet. Unfortunately, a lot of very bad information too.

Another very important item;

If you pull load data off a powder manufacturers website, or even from some manuals, READ EVERYTHING! Some load data is listed as max loads. Know this and back off typically 10% on the powder charges in these instances for starting loads.

 

[Trigger9]

Hello & Thank you to all who replied.
Here are the componants I have already & are waiting to use.
1) Winchester 115gr FMJ RN bullets.
2) Both - Alliant Power Pistol & Hodgdon CFE Powders.
3) Both CCI & Winchester small pistol Primers.

These are what I need formulas, or recipes for.
I have an abundance of these componants & will not be purchasing any others for a long time.
This is why I do not wish to "load up" a library of reloading books, for one or two recipes.
This is where the help of the reloading experts comes in.
So, I really do appreciate all the help I can get to do this.
My wife is dying to go shooting, but I am dying to reload at the same time, to keep things recycling. This will allow us both to keep happy & visit the range more often.
Thanks again for your much needed help & sound advice.
Trigger9

 

[fredj338]

The win 115gr fmj is close enough to a Speer or Sierra or Hornady to use their data. The allient data will be generic, but again, 115gr r fmj are all pretty much the same.
So get a couple of manuals, visit the allient site. Start with avg midrange data. Load 5rds. Then load 5 up 1/10gr & down 1/10gr. Shoot them in order from low to high. Note accuracy, functioning. You can continue to work up of down as you like until the gun won't function or to avg book max.
Oal will specific to your gun & bullet choice. Load to the longest oal that fits your mag & bbl. regardless of what any data tells you, oal must fit your gun. Nothing hurt by loading longer. Loading shorter raises pressures, but at midrange, not a huge deal, with slower powders like pp, even less an issue.

 

[otisrush]

The reloading manuals have a whole bunch of information not associated with specific loads. It will help in the understanding of ammunition, how to make it safely, how things work. It will help with overall knowledge which is important when working up loads, etc.

I've heard others say, and consequently I've decided for myself, that I will NEVER load up a load posted to an internet forum. The opportunity and consequent ramification of a typo is just too large. It's too easy to fat-finger something. I would only load what can be verified in either a loading manual or at the powder manufacturer's website.

OR

 

[rwsmith]

Does it match the profile....

The win 115gr fmj is close enough to a Speer or Sierra or Hornady to use their data. The allient data will be genetic, but again, 115gr r fmj are all pretty much the same.

If a bullet is the same weight, same diameter, same construction, same profile, same material you can substitute, but still back off a little and work up.

PS: Are you looking on the manufacturers web sites in the reloading data sections?