pc'd bullets vs traditional cast/sized/lubed bullets

Forrest r

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There's been allot of discussion in this forum about pc'd bullets & cast bullets and will this or that work. Figured I'd talk a little bit on powder coated bullets (pc'd) and their traditional sized/lubed counterparts.

Traditional cast/lubed/sized bullets:
Typically a bullet was cast, then sized, then lubed. Casting the bullet was done from an alloy, alloys are nothing more than combo's of different metals making the lead harder or softer. Lubes are combo's of different oils, greases and waxes. Sizing the bullet is extremely important, the closer the fit, the better.

Putting it all together:
When a bullet is fired it becomes under pressure. The base of the bullet compresses from that pressure. When the base compresses it squeezes lube out of the lube groove. The least amount of resistance is forward. The lube goes sideways (against the bbl) until it can't anymore so it takes the path of least resistance, which is forward. The lube will also be pressurized from hot gasses coming by the bottom drive band. The pushing/pressurizing of this lube forward makes the lube act like a gasket. Not only is the lube protecting the bbl it is sealing off gasses from getting by any bbl imperfections that the front drive bands hit as the lube is forced forward.

Not my picture, it was sent to me from another website were I was having a discussion about bullet compression. He was testing round grease groove vs square in a 44mag.


If you look closely at the bottom groove/lube groove on those bullets you'll see different amounts of compression (bigger/smaller). What you want to see in a bullet is what you see with the bullet that is in the far right of the picture/ last bullet on the right. It shows mild base compression, good even crisp rifling marks the whole length of the bullet (no skidding). And the front drive bands look complete with crisp edges.

Sizing the bullet;
The closer the size of the bullet to the cylinders/bbl. The less the bullet has to seal as the base is compressed.

Alloy:
There's been formula's out there for this hardness/that hardness, yada/yada/yada. Most of them are telling you the minimum hardness for the pressure being used.

Lube:
I use 2 different lubes. The 1st lube is a soft lube that has more oil than wax. The 2nd lube has more wax than grease. 95%+ of the time I use the soft lube because the lube has to be able to flow out and forward for the bullet to function properly. Too hard of a lube and it will never flow/seal act like a gasket and bad things happen.

walking the line:
It's a juggling act between size/alloy/lube and if any one of them are wrong, nothing works and things like loss of accuracy and leading come into play. Too hard of an alloy and the base will not compress enough to push the lube into the front bands. Gasses will get by everything and and loss of accuracy and flame cutting/leading will happen. (That's why too hard of a bullet leads the bbl). Get the perfect alloy and use too hard of a lube and the same thing happens, the lube can't flow. No lube, no accuracy. At the end of the day the reloader has to do a balancing act to find the right combo of alloy/lube/pressure to make an accurate load. There's always wiggle room and sizing/alloys/or lubes will aid in masking problems if any of those things aren't ideal. But even then, everything has to be pretty much spot on. That's why when casters find a good load/bullet combo they treat it like gold. That's also why allot of shooter use the same loads for specific bullets. They work!!!

Pc'd bullets:
They use the same size/alloy/lube rules that traditional bullets are bound by. The pc'd bullets simply have the ability to use those same rules differently.

Alloy:
Instead of matching the alloy to the pressure, pc'd bullets match the alloy to the bullet design. The pc'd bullets can also be allot softer which aids in bumping/sealing the bbl.

Lube:
Pc'd bullets take any and all lube issues out of the picture. It's already everywhere it needs to be. No more too hard/too soft, not enough, the right pressure to seal everything.

Size:
Because pc'd bullets can be used with such a soft alloy, the correct sizing of the bullet is not a critical. The is no bullet base to compress to push the lube to form the correct seal/gasket. Seeing's how the lube is already in the correct places the soft alloy of the pc'd bullet can easily be bumped up by the pressure of the load to seal the bbl, hence accuracy.

How do we prove such things????

By using a chronograph. Take the same bullet, same size, same firearm, same load and shoot pc'd bullets vs traditional cast bullets. You'll find that the pc'd bullet will have more velocity for the same load. It isn't that the pc coating is slicker/oiler than the traditional lubes. It's that the bullet is sealing the bbl better/more efficient. Used to do the same thing with traditional cast/lubed bullets. I'd try 2 or 3 different alloys for the same sized/lubed bullet to see which 1 had the highest velocity. Once that was found I knew the correct alloy/pressure combo.

It isn't rocket science but allot of things have to happen to get a good load with traditional cast/sized/lubed bullets. When pc'ing 1st came out and people were perfecting how to pc their own bullets I was all ears. After some initial testing with high pressure rounds (308) I decided to give pc'd bullets a real test to see what they could really do.

I decided on using a 44mag for testing pc'd bullets. The 44's tend to be a bit pickier than the 38spl/357's (which I own 9 of and have had excellent result with for decades). Just wanted some plinking loads that woulkd do around 1 1/2" @ 25yds. Now I bought a beater 629 back in 2006/2008? and used molds/bullets that I've had from 30+years to a couple of years. I also used the same powders that I've tested loads/bullet combo's with in this pistol for several years. At the end of the day I found 2 loads with traditional cast/sized/lubed bullets with 5 different bullets and 6 powders that would meet the 1 1/2" @ 25yds. I redid the same testing with pc's bullets and ended up with 13 loads that would do the same 1 1/2" @ 25yds.



13 vs 2:
Same firearm, same molds that cast the bullets, same sizers, same reloading dies, same shooter, etc. The only difference is the bullet!!!

Pc'd bullets take any lube issues out of the equation. That's the difference between an accurate load and one that isn't. The only thing you're matching with pc'd bullets is the pressure of the load to the design of the bullet. Undersized bullet ='s more pressure to obturate the bullet to the bore.

Can you have more than 1 load for the same pc'd bullet???? Absolutely!!! Simply change powders, different push/amount of pressure applied between burn rates. It's nothing to get 6 or 7 different loads using the same pc'd bullet and different powders. The only real thing I've noticed with pc'd bullets is the thickness of the bullets bottom drive band plays a huge roll in how hard you can drive the bullet. Some bullet designs like these 429303's have a gc and 2 extremely small drive bands. You don't need a gc on this bullet with powder puff loads. But when you heat them up to full house loads the small bands will fail.



Well, that's my take on why pc'd bullets perform better than traditional cast/lubed bullets.
In a nut shell:
Traditional bullets have to have the right combo of alloy/pressure to have the correct lube flow to not only lube the bbl, but form a gasket to seal gasses/flame cutting of the bullet. Raise or lower the pressure and you have to start all over again.
Pc'd bullet's only have to rely on amount of pressure of the load to expand/seal the bbl for the size/design of the bullet. After the minimum pressure is reached to seal the bbl pressures can be increased until the design of the bullet fails.

Can you have more than 1 load for the same bullet with traditional cast/sized/lubed bullets??? Absolutely!!! But typically they are either close in their pressure range or the short start pressure of the load is soft enough to not distort the base of the bullet.

I'd like to see anyone using traditional cast/sized/lubed bullets use the same alloy/lube in several different calibers and run that their bullets at anything from 700fps (8,000psi) to 2400fps (50,000psi). Let alone maintain high accuracy levels.

Anyway, that's my take on pc'd bullets. Their just more forgiving.
 
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I will try the coated bullet first in my 9mm pistol but the bullets
will all have a different Dia. from .356, 357 and .358 for my first tests.

They will also have "No groves" in the side wall (cylinder) of the bullet.

I might go into the 38 special if things work out.
For the 38 I would prefer a soft bullet for my target work and
maybe something in the 12 range for the medium and full loads to follow.

Later.
 
Like I've said before.....

Coated bullets are the cat's meow. I only buy coated bullets now, except for some jacketed. As long as it's put on right, it performs well and is very clean. No more lube in groove for me. Shooting pistols I don't have to worry where the 'threshold' is for the limit of the lube. I never get to that point.
 
Reloading for the 9mm gave me a run for my money, Darn small case combined with a high pressure round. Was looking for a target load for my nm springfield ro in 9mm. Was testing powders that I have a bunch of laying around. Finely got a keeper, the mihec 125gr hp powder coated sized to .358 being pushed by 5.0gr of winchester wst.

A 10-shot group @ 50ft.



Had a bunch of 1 1/2" to 2" groups with bullseye, american select, clays. Just couldn't get a handle on this bullet/cartridge combo with light target loads and still have the 1911 function.
 
But now you have to compare those two to Hi Tech Polymer coated,but I think there are probably a bunch of past threads on that :)
 
If PC and Hy-tec are here to stay do you suppose lube grooves will slowly disappear? I wonder if a more consistent bearing surface in lead bullets would be more beneficial or less? I'm curious about that.
 
I wonder if a more consistent bearing surface in lead bullets would be more beneficial or less? I'm curious about that.

I too have wondered on that score. Seems reasonable to me. And many of the commercial waxed (super)lubed swaged bullets don't seem to have cast type lube grooves. I had a whole bunch of Remingtons that I got at an auction for 2 bucks a box and they were some of the most accurate I ever loaded. And..voila..no leading either. I have powder coat paint baking oven etc so I am going to have to try PCing.
 
If PC and Hy-tec are here to stay do you suppose lube grooves will slowly disappear?
No, they disappeared pretty quick. Love these things. I also use their groove-less .358"/125 RN.

.45 (.451)

250-200SWC-45-2T.jpg
 
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PC bullets may be the best thing for handguns since gunpowder was invented but I have some questions no one has ever answered about these things. The big one is does it deposit in the bore even microscopically? If it does is it removed with cleaning or is it there and continues to build up. I just keep remembering the moly bullet claims of a few years back that ruined some rifle barrels and turned out to be impossible to remove. Before I jump on the PC bandwagon I need these questions resolved by an authoritative source. I have other concerns as well but these are the two biggies.
 
PC bullets may be the best thing for handguns since gunpowder was invented but I have some questions no one has ever answered about these things. The big one is does it deposit in the bore even microscopically? If it does is it removed with cleaning or is it there and continues to build up. I just keep remembering the moly bullet claims of a few years back that ruined some rifle barrels and turned out to be impossible to remove. Before I jump on the PC bandwagon I need these questions resolved by an authoritative source. I have other concerns as well but these are the two biggies.

Actually, shotgunners have already did the legwork along with gunpowder mfg's.

There's 2 types of coating.
polyurethane
polyester

The polyurethane is a paint product and involves chemicals to use.
The polyester is a powder product that uses static (#5 container air soft bb's). to use.

Shotgun shell cases are made out of a polyurethane.
Shotgun wads have been made out of polyurethane, nylon, polyester.
Polyester adipate (adipate ='s alkyd resin) has been used to coat gunpowders for a long time. It slows the burn rate of the powder.

So anyway, everyone's been shooting these types of plastics for decades with no ill affect on anything.

I use the polyester coating and love how easy it is to clean the firearms after a range session. What a revolver looks like after a typical 200round range session. Hoppe's #9 on a rag and everything wipes right off. Use the same #9 on a patch and after 2 or 3 passes down the bore, it's clean. No more brushing, etc, just 1 wet patch and 1 dry patch. The cylinder needs a standard cleaning due to the carbon build-up from the burnt powder. But the cylinders are no where near as bad as they would be with the burnt carbon/lube from traditional cast/lubed bullets.



Try doing that with traditional cast/lubed bullets.
 
I don't disagree with the fact traditional lubed bullets are a mess both lubing and shooting them. Do you know of anyone who has actually looked at the bores using scientific methods to determine if residue is depositing in the bores? I don't question what you are saying but before I put these bullets through some of my older S&W revolvers and even the newer ones I just want to know for sure that 5 years from now I won't be questioning why I did it. I hope you understand my questioning position. I am not attacking these bullets because I really want to use them but I just don't want to abandon a proven process and later have regrettable problems.
 
I don't disagree with the fact traditional lubed bullets are a mess both lubing and shooting them. Do you know of anyone who has actually looked at the bores using scientific methods to determine if residue is depositing in the bores? I don't question what you are saying but before I put these bullets through some of my older S&W revolvers and even the newer ones I just want to know for sure that 5 years from now I won't be questioning why I did it. I hope you understand my questioning position. I am not attacking these bullets because I really want to use them but I just don't want to abandon a proven process and later have regrettable problems.

IMO, anything you put on the bullet surface, whether it's jacketed cupro-nickel, lead/lube, or some type of polymer coating, some of it will get deposited in the bore. Yes, shotgun shooters know this and are still questioning what to use, and how to use it, to remove the fouling from their guns. Plastic wad debris DOES get built up in the throats and especially the chokes on shotguns, and has to be removed from time to time. With rifling being much sharper than just a gentle choke, I can only imagine the problem to be much worse. Be nice to see more studies, me thinks.

I have to wonder why, if coated is the way of the future, that the major ammunitions makers haven't already picked up on this. Coated bullets must be easier and less expensive to produce than jacketed. We know the down-side of lead/lubed bullets. One wonders?
 
No, they disappeared pretty quick. Love these things. I also use their groove-less .358"/125 RN.

.45 (.451)

250-200SWC-45-2T.jpg

So far with the ones I've tried I've had good results also. I just can't get past the color of some. That blue looks OK but some of the psychedelic ones rub me the wrong way. I suppose the kids like them and if it grows the sport it's good I guess. Now my gals will be begging me for hot pink for their ammo:P.
 
per post 7;

I hope they keep a cannelure on the 38 and 357 to set the correct bullet OAL.

It also helps with how the powder burns on full loads.

None on the auto pistol bullets would be fine, with me, though.
 
I use this one for my light 357 loads.
SFR-125-38-2T.jpg

Seating deep and crimping on the nose helps with powder burn in light loads, but Nevada Ed is right, they need to keep a crimp groove on the revolver bullets meant for full power loads, that's why I don't use this one.
SFR-158-38-1.jpg


I'm looking for a good coated SWC with a crimp groove, square base, crimson colored please (I think crimson is a bad *** color for bullets).
 
If PC and Hy-tec are here to stay do you suppose lube grooves will slowly disappear? I wonder if a more consistent bearing surface in lead bullets would be more beneficial or less? I'm curious about that.

Federal is coming out with their own poly coated bullets/ammo this year. No grooves or grooves, doesn't affect accuracy but does affect pressures. Grooves mean stability with less pressure than smooth sided bullets.
 
PC bullets may be the best thing for handguns since gunpowder was invented but I have some questions no one has ever answered about these things. The big one is does it deposit in the bore even microscopically? If it does is it removed with cleaning or is it there and continues to build up. I just keep remembering the moly bullet claims of a few years back that ruined some rifle barrels and turned out to be impossible to remove. Before I jump on the PC bandwagon I need these questions resolved by an authoritative source. I have other concerns as well but these are the two biggies.

Everything you send down the bore leaves some fouling; copper, lead or plastics. So it's just a matter of how hard is it to clean. So far, poly coating or epoxy coatings seem to clean up easier than copper or lead fouling.
 
Hey Acme, nice looking bullet, but do you think we can get rid of the bevel base? They don't help.
(I'm getting pretty fussy in my old age)

Copy%20of%20C%2038%20158%20SWC-230x230.JPG

Yep bevel base bullets are totally unnecessary IMO and lead to another set of problems in traditional lubed bullets. I avoid them like an awful disease.
 
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