Problem with 66-8: powder fouling causing cylinder to bind
- Thread starter irapollock
- Start date
Just remove the front sideplate screw & slide the cylinder/yoke assembly off the frame. The ejector will stay with the cylinder, just like in the OPs picture. Then you can clean the yoke's barrel.
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Last edited:
BuckeyeS&W
Member
Did your revolver come back from Smith yet? If so how about an update on what if anything was done and if problem still exists? Thanks
Lou_the_welder
Member
The yoke and the cylinder are together and wont come apart, right?
Lou_the_welder
Member
Dont. Mine doesn't come off either. And ive never had to clean the part the OP described and his cylinder is removable from the yoke/crane. OURS are apparently NOT. My 686 has the removable cylinder like the one pictured.
I subscribed to this post and was lurking in it to try and figure out what people were taking about. Ive shot thousands of rounds through mine and have never needed to clean the yoke for binding. The last 5 times i cleaned the gun, i didn't even tear it down (as much as i could) because i KNEW the cylinder couldn't be removed from the yoke. Its a sealed unit? On mine.
So now im wondering. .....
Lou_the_welder
Member
I have a 66-8. Going to tear it down after i get home and take pictures for this thread. Im curious now if maybe we have a hidden revision? (Revised ) only pics i have now. Gotta crack open the safe and dig her out to see whats going on here......
Seems sealed yes. Even in the OP pic it seems like it has that pin on the side of the yoke as well. But, like you said, I haven't had to clean it that deep yet bc it's a new revolver but I'd like to know if I could
Lou_the_welder
Member
Ok. Learned a few things. Found the yoke part but it doesn't come off from the cylinder completely. It was dreanched in oil- because when i clean my guns, i blast em with clp. And i wiped the yoke which had some carbon? Dunno
It can be cleaned. But i haven't. And haven't had the cylinder bind- shooting 150-200 rounds at a time.
I use bullseye. Power Pistol. H110. And 2400.
My yoke hadn't been cleaned in well over 1k rounds and for some odd reason never binded.
I gun dip too. Clp. Rem oil. Hoppes.
It can be cleaned. But i haven't. And haven't had the cylinder bind- shooting 150-200 rounds at a time.
I use bullseye. Power Pistol. H110. And 2400.
My yoke hadn't been cleaned in well over 1k rounds and for some odd reason never binded.
I gun dip too. Clp. Rem oil. Hoppes.
Ok. Learned a few things. Found the yoke part but it doesn't come off from the cylinder completely. It was dreanched in oil- because when i clean my guns, i blast em with clp. And i wiped the yoke which had some carbon? Dunno
It can be cleaned. But i haven't. And haven't had the cylinder bind- shooting 150-200 rounds at a time.
I use bullseye. Power Pistol. H110. And 2400.
My yoke hadn't been cleaned in well over 1k rounds and for some odd reason never binded.
I gun dip too. Clp. Rem oil. Hoppes.
Thanks Lou. Yep looks identical to mine. Glad to know I'm not imagining things. I know I have a lot of cleaner in the middle of the cylinder too that's why it annoys me. It does seem like the yoke would slide off if the ejector were to be removed no?
Hi guys, I recently traded into a 66-8, and as best I can tell, it's fine (I fired a half dozen test cylinders, of both 38 and 357 right after i got it, but that's it.)
Just in case though, can someone elaborate on this cylinder removal process for me, in the simplest, most idiot-proof terms possible ?
Thanks......
Just in case though, can someone elaborate on this cylinder removal process for me, in the simplest, most idiot-proof terms possible ?
Thanks......
Lou_the_welder
Member
Remove this screw. Use a good screwdriver.Hi guys, I recently traded into a 66-8, and as best I can tell, it's fine (I fired a half dozen test cylinders, of both 38 and 357 right after i got it, but that's it.)
Just in case though, can someone elaborate on this cylinder removal process for me, in the simplest, most idiot-proof terms possible ?
Thanks......
Thats all
Lou_the_welder
Member
I think the yoke screw would need to be removed so that the whole assembly can be removed like a 686. I wouldn't get in the habbit of removing the yoke screw just to clean a gun. You may mar the end and it wont look pretty.
Oops! Sorry I told you wrong. I didn't think hard enough on the model number in question.
That style is like on my X-frames. The knurled ejector rod knob unscrews (reverse threads, just like on regular ejector rods) first to remove the yoke.
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peterthefish
Member
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Interesting revision. I've seen cylinders go flying during speed reloads on well worn Guns but never asked if the yoke went with it. I wonder if this would stop that from happening. I'd like to see what the ejector rod looks like and how it retains the cylinder to the yoke.
Sparks will definitely make you one, but be prepared to die of old age before you get it. I love their stuff, however, I ordered a holster for a 5" N frame prior to shot show and still didn't have it in May. When I called, they couldn't even tell me when to expect it. I got a little ticked and cancelled the order. Now I'm waiting on someone else.
M.Hall
flagman1776
Member
I would suggest that before you shoot for the day, you go over everything but the grips with CLP on a patch. The bore, chambers, inside the yoke, etc. Then wipe with a dry patch so only a film remains. Your fouling will be on top of the CLP & much easier to clean. I read it in a gun mag years ago... did it myself... and when the Dept Armorer saw how well it worked, he bought it in gallons & a couple of pump sprayers.
cowboy4evr
Member
Last yr I had a S&W 29-10 that misfired a lot , I mean 4 times out of a cylinder of 6 . Sometimes it sounded like you were thumping a rotten pumpkin dry firing it .
I sent it in to the factory with a note explaining the problem . About 6 wks later it came back and was no better , so i called . I was asked if I shot reloads , I said yes , mine . I was told to stop w/the reloads and only shoot factory ammo . I knew that was crazy .
I decided the problem had to be in the frame mounted firing pin . After watching a video on youtube I fixed it myself . Removing the firing pin and cleaning thoroughly the pin and recess it sits in solved the problem . It's was a very easy fix .
This was the 2nd time in the past 12 monthsI have not had great luck with the factory . In yrs past , I had great results .
The same day my 29 was shipped in , my ffl also sent in a 28 , it had to be sent back a 2nd time . It just all depends on who , at the factory works on your gun as to how good the work will be . They must of hired several " newbies " just out of armorers school that lack experience .
I sent it in to the factory with a note explaining the problem . About 6 wks later it came back and was no better , so i called . I was asked if I shot reloads , I said yes , mine . I was told to stop w/the reloads and only shoot factory ammo . I knew that was crazy .
I decided the problem had to be in the frame mounted firing pin . After watching a video on youtube I fixed it myself . Removing the firing pin and cleaning thoroughly the pin and recess it sits in solved the problem . It's was a very easy fix .
This was the 2nd time in the past 12 monthsI have not had great luck with the factory . In yrs past , I had great results .
The same day my 29 was shipped in , my ffl also sent in a 28 , it had to be sent back a 2nd time . It just all depends on who , at the factory works on your gun as to how good the work will be . They must of hired several " newbies " just out of armorers school that lack experience .
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