Problem with 66-8: powder fouling causing cylinder to bind

[fljr]

Do you have to take the ejector off to get the yoke off on the 66? Cylinder removal videos don't seem to match up with this model. Thanks.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

Do you have to take the ejector off to get the yoke off on the 66?

Just remove the front sideplate screw & slide the cylinder/yoke assembly off the frame. The ejector will stay with the cylinder, just like in the OPs picture. Then you can clean the yoke's barrel.

.

 

[BuckeyeS&W]

When the pistol comes back I'll try the Titegroup and Unique loads to see
if the problem got fixed or at least improved. After that, I'm not sure. I
have some HS6 and BlueDot that I could try, at least for full house loads.
Around here, pistol powders availability is still pretty iffy.
By the way, does anybody have any recent experience with S&W factory service turn-around times?
Thanks
Ira

Did your revolver come back from Smith yet? If so how about an update on what if anything was done and if problem still exists? Thanks

 

[fljr]

Just remove the front sideplate screw & slide the cylinder/yoke assembly off the frame. The ejector will stay with the cylinder, just like in the OPs picture. Then you can clean the yoke's barrel.

.

The yoke will not slide over the top of the ejector rod.

 

[Lou_the_welder]

Do you have to take the ejector off to get the yoke off on the 66? Cylinder removal videos don't seem to match up with this model. Thanks.

The yoke and the cylinder are together and wont come apart, right?

 

[fljr]

The yoke and the cylinder are together and wont come apart, right?

Exactly! And I don't want to break anything...

 

[Lou_the_welder]

Exactly! And I don't want to break anything...

Dont. Mine doesn't come off either. And ive never had to clean the part the OP described and his cylinder is removable from the yoke/crane. OURS are apparently NOT. My 686 has the removable cylinder like the one pictured.

I subscribed to this post and was lurking in it to try and figure out what people were taking about. Ive shot thousands of rounds through mine and have never needed to clean the yoke for binding. The last 5 times i cleaned the gun, i didn't even tear it down (as much as i could) because i KNEW the cylinder couldn't be removed from the yoke. Its a sealed unit? On mine.

So now im wondering. .....

 

[Lou_the_welder]

I have a 66-8. Going to tear it down after i get home and take pictures for this thread. Im curious now if maybe we have a hidden revision? (Revised ) only pics i have now. Gotta crack open the safe and dig her out to see whats going on here......

 

[fljr]

Dont. Mine doesn't come off either. And ive never had to clean the part the OP described and his cylinder is removable from the yoke/crane. OURS are apparently NOT. My 686 has the removable cylinder like the one pictured.

I subscribed to this post and was lurking in it to try and figure out what people were taking about. Ive shot thousands of rounds through mine and have never needed to clean the yoke for binding. The last 5 times i cleaned the gun, i didn't even tear it down (as much as i could) because i KNEW the cylinder couldn't be removed from the yoke. Its a sealed unit? On mine.

So now im wondering. .....

Seems sealed yes. Even in the OP pic it seems like it has that pin on the side of the yoke as well. But, like you said, I haven't had to clean it that deep yet bc it's a new revolver but I'd like to know if I could

 

[Lou_the_welder]

Ok. Learned a few things. Found the yoke part but it doesn't come off from the cylinder completely. It was dreanched in oil- because when i clean my guns, i blast em with clp. And i wiped the yoke which had some carbon? Dunno

It can be cleaned. But i haven't. And haven't had the cylinder bind- shooting 150-200 rounds at a time.
I use bullseye. Power Pistol. H110. And 2400.
My yoke hadn't been cleaned in well over 1k rounds and for some odd reason never binded.
I gun dip too. Clp. Rem oil. Hoppes.

 

[fljr]

Ok. Learned a few things. Found the yoke part but it doesn't come off from the cylinder completely. It was dreanched in oil- because when i clean my guns, i blast em with clp. And i wiped the yoke which had some carbon? Dunno

It can be cleaned. But i haven't. And haven't had the cylinder bind- shooting 150-200 rounds at a time.
I use bullseye. Power Pistol. H110. And 2400.
My yoke hadn't been cleaned in well over 1k rounds and for some odd reason never binded.
I gun dip too. Clp. Rem oil. Hoppes.

Thanks Lou. Yep looks identical to mine. Glad to know I'm not imagining things. I know I have a lot of cleaner in the middle of the cylinder too that's why it annoys me. It does seem like the yoke would slide off if the ejector were to be removed no?

 

[Mark IV]

Hi guys, I recently traded into a 66-8, and as best I can tell, it's fine (I fired a half dozen test cylinders, of both 38 and 357 right after i got it, but that's it.)
Just in case though, can someone elaborate on this cylinder removal process for me, in the simplest, most idiot-proof terms possible ?
Thanks......

 

[Lou_the_welder]

Hi guys, I recently traded into a 66-8, and as best I can tell, it's fine (I fired a half dozen test cylinders, of both 38 and 357 right after i got it, but that's it.)
Just in case though, can someone elaborate on this cylinder removal process for me, in the simplest, most idiot-proof terms possible ?
Thanks......

Remove this screw. Use a good screwdriver.

then open cylinder latch as you normally would to load rounds. Pull cylinder and yoke towards the buisness end (barrel)
Thats all

 

[Lou_the_welder]

Thanks Lou. Yep looks identical to mine. Glad to know I'm not imagining things. I know I have a lot of cleaner in the middle of the cylinder too that's why it annoys me. It does seem like the yoke would slide off if the ejector were to be removed no?

I think the yoke screw would need to be removed so that the whole assembly can be removed like a 686. I wouldn't get in the habbit of removing the yoke screw just to clean a gun. You may mar the end and it wont look pretty.

 

[BLUEDOT37]

The yoke and the cylinder are together and wont come apart, right?

Oops! Sorry I told you wrong. I didn't think hard enough on the model number in question.

That style is like on my X-frames. The knurled ejector rod knob unscrews (reverse threads, just like on regular ejector rods) first to remove the yoke.

.

 

[peterthefish]

Interesting revision. I've seen cylinders go flying during speed reloads on well worn Guns but never asked if the yoke went with it. I wonder if this would stop that from happening. I'd like to see what the ejector rod looks like and how it retains the cylinder to the yoke.

 

[Taj]

I know that this is not the correct forum for my question, but getting a group of Model 66-8 shooter together is not that easy. I love my gun, but have been unable to find a quality, leather holster for it. Even Galco which I believe makes S&W holsters does not make a holster for the newer Model 66s (66-8). The problem apparently is that the barrel is 4.25" in length. There may be other dimensional problems, such as barrel lug size, etc. but I do not know. It seems that a mold for this gun has not yet been made. There are some companies that I have not yet tried, e.g. Milt Sparks. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Sparks will definitely make you one, but be prepared to die of old age before you get it. I love their stuff, however, I ordered a holster for a 5" N frame prior to shot show and still didn't have it in May. When I called, they couldn't even tell me when to expect it. I got a little ticked and cancelled the order. Now I'm waiting on someone else.

M.Hall

 

[lbullock1]

Thanks Taj,
Understand the old age issue very well. Need another holster; might let Sparks do both. Will just put both guns and holsters in my will in case I do not make delivery!

 

[flagman1776]

I would suggest that before you shoot for the day, you go over everything but the grips with CLP on a patch. The bore, chambers, inside the yoke, etc. Then wipe with a dry patch so only a film remains. Your fouling will be on top of the CLP & much easier to clean. I read it in a gun mag years ago... did it myself... and when the Dept Armorer saw how well it worked, he bought it in gallons & a couple of pump sprayers.

 

[cowboy4evr]

Last yr I had a S&W 29-10 that misfired a lot , I mean 4 times out of a cylinder of 6 . Sometimes it sounded like you were thumping a rotten pumpkin dry firing it .
I sent it in to the factory with a note explaining the problem . About 6 wks later it came back and was no better , so i called . I was asked if I shot reloads , I said yes , mine . I was told to stop w/the reloads and only shoot factory ammo . I knew that was crazy .
I decided the problem had to be in the frame mounted firing pin . After watching a video on youtube I fixed it myself . Removing the firing pin and cleaning thoroughly the pin and recess it sits in solved the problem . It's was a very easy fix .
This was the 2nd time in the past 12 monthsI have not had great luck with the factory . In yrs past , I had great results .
The same day my 29 was shipped in , my ffl also sent in a 28 , it had to be sent back a 2nd time . It just all depends on who , at the factory works on your gun as to how good the work will be . They must of hired several " newbies " just out of armorers school that lack experience .