Is there something special about treatments sold by holster makers? Is there some reason not to use a regular household leather treatment to maintain my belts and holsters. My wife has some Weiman Leather cleaner and polisher I had in mind but I would guess any commercially sold treatment would work. Should I order a special holster treatment?
Leather Oils
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I don't know what guys like Lob gun leather use, but would be curious and pay attention if he did recomeend one.
I use and like Obenauf's Leather Oil on my holsters, sheaths, belts and boots.
I use and like Obenauf's Leather Oil on my holsters, sheaths, belts and boots.
LoboGunLeather
US Veteran
I generally recommend against the use of any oily or greasy leather treatment for holster maintenance. This is because these products can soften leather and make it supple or limp, overcoming the forming processes and making the holster essentially useless for the intended purpose.
If a holster becomes soiled a dampened cloth or sponge can be used to clean off the soiling. Surface scratches or abrasions can be touched up with a bit of leather dye in appropriate shading. Verdigris (that unsightly greenish stuff that can build up around brass or copper hardware) can be removed with a bit of club soda on a rag, or with a soft toothbrush. For routine maintenance I suggest an occasional light application of neutral shoe polish (Johnsons Paste Wax may be substituted) on exterior surfaces, buffed off with a soft cloth.
If a holster becomes soiled a dampened cloth or sponge can be used to clean off the soiling. Surface scratches or abrasions can be touched up with a bit of leather dye in appropriate shading. Verdigris (that unsightly greenish stuff that can build up around brass or copper hardware) can be removed with a bit of club soda on a rag, or with a soft toothbrush. For routine maintenance I suggest an occasional light application of neutral shoe polish (Johnsons Paste Wax may be substituted) on exterior surfaces, buffed off with a soft cloth.
cowboy4evr
Member
There are many that recommend " Ballistol " . It was developed by the German gov't during WW I to protect not only the metal surfaces on a rifle but the leather goods as well ( slings , boots , holsters etc) . I have used it a few times but that is not to be taken as an endorsement . Just saying I have tried it .
On my BEFORE AND AFTER thread wheelgun610 said:
"I've had good luck using rubbing alcohol on a few older
holsters that felt oily". Have you tried that Ray? (or anyone
else)? Any other tips how to treat a holster that the
owner oiled? I agree that leather should not be oiled, but
sometimes I get one that has been oiled and would like to
know the best way to reverse the damage, if possible.
I enjoy buying "distressed" holsters on that famous auction
site and rehabbing them. Haven't made a lot of money,
but have learned a lot, and had fun.
Mitch Rosen, unsurprisingly, agrees with Lobo: Stay away from oils or leather softners of any kind. Stiffness a good thing in a holster. Use shoe polish if you need a touch up.
The only thing I have used is Blackrock,which is a leather cleaner/treatment. Used like shoe polish maybe every 4-5 years when needed.
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I keep Renaissance Wax on hand for preserving metal and wood on firearms. I also use it to polish and preserve leather. It is non-penetrating, non-softening, not slippery, and highly water repellant. Renaissance Wax is highly purified carnauba, the main ingredient in Johnson Wax and Simonize Car Wax, without the yellow and stink. Applied with the fingers, a little goes a long way.
I also like Blackrock Leather 'n' Rich. The active ingredient in it is
also carnauba. But I would like to know the best way to rehab a
holster that has been oiled, if there is a way. As mentioned above,
wheelgun610 has had some success using rubbing alcohol. Any
opinions on that? Any other suggestions?
also carnauba. But I would like to know the best way to rehab a
holster that has been oiled, if there is a way. As mentioned above,
wheelgun610 has had some success using rubbing alcohol. Any
opinions on that? Any other suggestions?
I use it in a needle oiler for just the snaps to remove the verdigris and put a barrier film around the metal that either keeps it from reforming or greatly slows it down (I use it sparingly... just enough to wick under the edges of the snaps).
I use Renaissance wax for the rest of the holster.
Ren wax is not made from Carnauba wax, which is acidic, and why premium car waxes made from Carnauba is touted as being "PH balanced". Renn wax is made from micro-crystalline waxes refined from crude oil.
Page 3 of this document has an interesting narrative:
http://www.conservation-by-design.com/pdf/datasheets/Renaissance Wax Safety Data Sheet.pdf
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Big Cholla
Member
Amazing
Thanks for that 'Link'. It is absolutely amazing to me as to the store of knowledge that the members of this forum have to contribute. It is one of my goals to learn something new to me every day. The contributions of the members to ongoing discussions almost always provide that daily 'new' bon mot of info. Thanks Gunhacker and thanks to the rest of you contributors. ......
Thanks for that 'Link'. It is absolutely amazing to me as to the store of knowledge that the members of this forum have to contribute. It is one of my goals to learn something new to me every day. The contributions of the members to ongoing discussions almost always provide that daily 'new' bon mot of info. Thanks Gunhacker and thanks to the rest of you contributors. ......
Great info on Ren wax, Gunhacker. Thanks for the link!
I was interested to see that ren wax, when applied properly -- i.e., very thin -- is price competitive with more readily available commercial waxes. I would not have guessed that.
(I am also now thinking to use some on my black marble/onyx fireplace hearth.)
I was interested to see that ren wax, when applied properly -- i.e., very thin -- is price competitive with more readily available commercial waxes. I would not have guessed that.
(I am also now thinking to use some on my black marble/onyx fireplace hearth.)
That will make it "pop"... I use it on polished marble and granite.
My wife has been trying to get me to use it on myself to preserve and protect from further oxidation, if it only worked that way.... it might, it works for leather goods
My wife has been trying to get me to use it on myself to preserve and protect from further oxidation, if it only worked that way.... it might, it works for leather goods
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SPOT ON!
As a guy who builds holsters as kind of a hobby business, you should NEVER use an oil or other softening agent on a holster, especially a CCW rig.
rednichols
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Well, gee, Dave, that's going to disappoint the heck out of Bianchi, Galco, et. al, who use neatsfoot oil to achieve their tan colour! For like 50 years. And the vintage ones are bought and old every day on eBay, so they obviously hold up well. Lawrence, and Heiser, too, used neatsfoot oil for colour (and weather protection); ditto on the eBay. Tanners (I'm thinking specifically of Fred Hermann in his day) tell me that the oil strengthens the interlocking fibres, too.
I had a local leather supply here, tell me that in Oz no one EVER uses neatsfoot oil on their saddlery nor will they restitch anything that has been oiled; then stopped in at one of their local customers (a local saddlery) and watched them pouring neatsfoot oil over their saddles. These tales have a habit of having a life of their own but have to be scrutinised often.
That beautiful Bianchi X15 on the recent thread (titled Bianchi X15) was coloured with neatsfoot oil; maybe even by me. And it's 40 years old. I have Heiser's that are a hundred y/o.
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Curtis Reed
Member
Dave from Diamond D Custom Leather (makers of my guides choice holster) recommends a very lightly damp sponge with just a few drops of olive oil on the sponge. Just lightly wipe the outside of the gear with the sponge. A little goes a long way. I also like Ren wax
How to treat your leather holster.wmv - YouTube
How to treat your leather holster.wmv - YouTube
Old Arkansawyer
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I have used neatsfoot oil on old high back saddles and 100+ year old chaps which were dry and cracked. All were helped to become supply again. I also applied neatsfoot to some old U.S. GI holsters with good results. Best applied on a hot day and brush on lots of oil.
Red, My friend, Eddie Bacon, kept a few gallons of neatsfoot around when he made or repaired a saddle.
Years ago, when I was at Fort Huachuca, the historic cavalry unit there used original leather gear.
It was in amazing condition.
When I asked what they used, the answer was Lexol.
Now, Ballistol works just fine for my leather goods.
It was in amazing condition.
When I asked what they used, the answer was Lexol.
Now, Ballistol works just fine for my leather goods.
