Cleaning brass: Vibratory vs Rotary vs Ultrasonic

[Neumann]

I have an ultrasonic cleaner and a vibrating bowl. Ultrasonic with the proper solution will leave the brass chemically clean inside and out, but dull. You must de-prime first to get good contact with the solution.

Wet brass is a PITA to dry completely, so a vibrating bowl with corncob medium is my mainstay. To avoid little chunks in the primer hole, I leave the primers in. I have never found enough residue in the primer hole to interfere with seating or ignition.

A tumbler would work too, but with the same dust issue unless used with wet medium. Steel pins are too large to fit in a primer hole, but might stick to the inside of the case unless thoroughly dried. I would suggest using a rotating strainer basket to separate cases from medium, the same as with a vibrating bowl.

 

[gwpercle]

Cleaning brass is like skinning cats....more than one way and they all work.
I've been reloading 50 years now and tried them all.
Rotary- wet and dry , vibratory - dry and ultrasonic.

1. I don't care for anything involving water , makes a mess and you have to dry the cases completely.

2. Easiest is a vibratory "tumbler" ( Frankford Arsenal ) with treated walnut shell media. I've never had a dust issue with treated media from Midway. Add some Rooster Labs Case Polish additive if you do .
I remove the top and use a large slotted cooking spoon to scoop out the cases while the unit vibrates (runs) ....the cases come to the top , I spoon them out , slots leave media in the bowl.
I polish mine before decapping and/or resizing, makes them easier to size.
No mess , no drying , no dumping media out. If there's an easier way let me know...I like easy .
Gary

 

[bigggbbruce]

I have never had pins sticking in flash holes or otherwise. However with dry I always had it stuck in flash holes and was a pain in the ***.

But, you should clean the brass before sizing(don't want the crud damaging the sizing die and brass).. so.. non issue.

 

[rsrocket1]

I tried the ultrasonic method first, way too much babysitting restarting it every 8 minutes for a very few cases. I exchanged it for a vibratory tumbler and haven't found a need to use anything else.

I use a lamp timer to set it for 2-3 hours depending on how full I fill it with brass. I use crushed walnut shells at $17/50 pounds and 4 pounds will last 1-1/2 to 2 years at 10,000+ cases per year.

No dust if you add cut up used dryer sheets. With 2 growing boys in the house, we have a lot of used dryer sheets. No other additives needed. I used to add Nu Finish, but it causes the soot to stick to the media and blackens it much faster than if the media stays dry and lets the sheets pick up the soot.

 

[Dieseltech56]

I wet tumble with stainless pins and a Rebel 17. I can do 250 44 mag brass or up to 400 38 special in one cycle. I leave them in there for an hour and no longer. The cases might not be perfectly shiny but they're clean enough to reload.

I do decap the old primers before only because stainless media will do the primer pockets. After the cases are done I shake them around in an old towel and stuff them in the oven at 200°F for about 10 minutes. They're plenty dry after that.

 

[RGVshooter]

My question is, for those of you who have tried them all, what's the least labor intensive way to achieve a base level of cleanliness?

That's easy..... Grab a small pail or bucket, fill it with hot water and add a squirt of Dawn dish soap and a dash or two of "Lemi Shine". swish it around, let it soak for, I don't know. 5 minutes or so depending on how dirty the brass is. You can tell it's done when the brass get's noticeably shiny that it's ready. Dump the brass in a colander and rinse off with warm fresh water, dump the brass in a towel, wrap it up and shake out the excess water and allow to dry.

 

[hdwhit]

dr. mordo wrote:
I need the least labor intensive way to clean brass.

"Labor intensity" needs to considered within the scope of the entire reloading process as well as the outcome desired. I do not seek a "Jewelry Grade" shine on my brass, I just want it clean enough to facilitate a thorough visual inspection. Thus, I have settled on the following process:

• Brass is decapped using a universal decapping die.
• Brass is washed (not tumbled) in a solution of 1 tablespoon Lemishine to 1 gallon of warm water plus a small amount of detergent. (Please note this concentration is far higher than should be used when wet tumbling brass)
• After about 15 minutes (never more then 30, the brass will start to darken), the brass is rinsed thoroughly and left on a towel to dry on my workbench in the garage overnight. There is a ceiling fan above the bench, so air is being constantly circulated.
• Once dry, the brass is visually inspected for defects and mechanically inspected with a micrometer for out-of-spec conditions.
• The brass is then lubricated, re-sized, trimmed (if necessary), primer pockets reamed (if necessary), chamfered, deburred and then tumbled (I have both rotary and vibratory tumblers and have no preference for either) in walnut media to remove the re-sizing lubricant and impart a final shine.

Since I let the brass dry overnight and then tumble it either overnight or while I am working the following day, I reckon very little time invested in the brass drying or tumbling.

 

[hdwhit]

dr. mordo asked:
Does anyone just use dry media in a rotary tumbler so they can simplify the post-tumbling process?

I don't even use a rotary tumbler. I use a plastic colander that I bought from WalMart many years ago for $1.67.

 

[hdwhit]

Also, dr. mordo, if you choose to use a weak acid solution to help remove oxidation from your brass, please note that while LemiShine is a favorite amongst many reloaders, it's active ingredient is simply citric acid. You can get similar results using acetic acid (i.e. vinegar), oxoleic acid (i.e. barkeeper's friend) or plain citric acid sold in the canning and preserving section of most grocery stores to get the same results.

If your screen name is any indication of advanced technical credentials, then you are already familiar enough with the processes of oxidation and reduction to know that you have a huge variety of choices available to you; these are just the ones that handloaders have learned will work, are not dangerous and are somewhat forgiving of errors.

 

[Carrier]

But, you should clean the brass before sizing(don't want the crud damaging the sizing die and brass).. so.. non issue.

All my brass gets decapped with RCBS decapper die before anything happens. I do runs of 1000 plus cases of whichever caliber I'm doing. Wet tumbled then put away until its time to load.
Depending on how much shooting we do this happens a several times a month. I would be dry tumbling everyday or have to buy several of them. Just not happening.

For the OP and the amount he does a dry vibrator would probably work for him.

 

[bluetopper]

Here's my rotary dry tumbler. I use course corn cob or fine walnut shell, each with a tad of liquid car wax. I do good size batches at a time.

 

[dr. mordo]

Gents - thanks very much!

This is great info I'll have to read through a few times before I really make up my mind.

I really appreciate y'all taking the time to educate me on this.

Thanks again!

 

[rockquarry]

Perhaps I'm missing something here, like a dust problem when using dry media. For those who have dealt with dust, doesn't the tumbler lid keep dust inside the tumbler? As for dust when shaking the media from the brass, do it outdoors. Any minimal amount of dust quickly dissipates outside.

 

[rsrocket1]

Perhaps I'm missing something here, like a dust problem when using dry media. For those who have dealt with dust, doesn't the tumbler lid keep dust inside the tumbler? As for dust when shaking the media from the brass, do it outdoors. Any minimal amount of dust quickly dissipates outside.

Yes the dust problem is not during tumbling, it's during the separation process.

For those who don't use cut used dryer sheets and have to deal with dust, the dust does contain soot, some of which is primer compound (lead styphnate) and more of it would fly around when sifting out the media. Do it often enough outdoors in the same place and you'll have a higher concentration of the nasty stuff than if you don't deal with the dust. Is is bad? I don't know but it is at a higher concentration than if you eliminate almost all of it with the dryer sheets.

The brass will also have a higher coating of dust on it when loading if you don't deal with it during the tumbling process. Is it annoying? I don't know, but it is so easily eliminated without any additives that IDK why anyone would not use something that is so simple and free. Even cut up paper towels (the cheaper the better) work better than nothing.

 

[TomkinsSP]

Caveats, I shoot from the back yard or (more often in winter) covered porch and tumble in the adjacent breezeway, my rounds go from pocket to cylinder to pocket to tumbler.

I find dry corn cob media to do a surpurb job of cleaning and lightly buffing the brass with next to zero effort on my part. I dump the contents of the tumbler through a seive into a plastic bowl reserved for this purpose, and return the media for another tumble. Tumbler has set "outside" for years and doesn't seem the worse for it.

 

[BE Mike]

I'm old school. I have a Lortone QT-12 and use ground walnut shells and liquid Flitz. No reason to change. The same tumbler has been serving me well since the mid-80's. Lortone QT-12 Rotary Rock Tumbler | eBay

 

[chief38]

The best method and the cleanest Brass comes from wet tumbling with stainless steel pins IMO.

I do NOT use that method because I have my outfit for 35 + years now and all the accouterments to go with it. I use a Dillon Vibratory Tumbler with Lyman Green media and it works good enough for me. While my Brass does not come out as shinny as the wet method, it still shines up well and works flawlessly. I am interested in flawless ammo function more than cosmetics - but someone who really takes pride in Classy Brass should probably go wet.

If I were starting out today, I'd more than likely go wet - but don't feel the cosmetics are worth switching at this point (at least for me).

 

[Rule3]

Yes the dust problem is not during tumbling, it's during the separation process.

For those who don't use cut used dryer sheets and have to deal with dust, the dust does contain soot, some of which is primer compound (lead styphnate) and more of it would fly around when sifting out the media. Do it often enough outdoors in the same place and you'll have a higher concentration of the nasty stuff than if you don't deal with the dust. Is is bad? I don't know but it is at a higher concentration than if you eliminate almost all of it with the dryer sheets.

The brass will also have a higher coating of dust on it when loading if you don't deal with it during the tumbling process. Is it annoying? I don't know, but it is so easily eliminated without any additives that IDK why anyone would not use something that is so simple and free. Even cut up paper towels (the cheaper the better) work better than nothing.

They do have these.

If your media is very dusty it is old and worn. Some dust can be eliminated by a few drops of Mineral (baby) oil into the media,(from Lyman product QA)

Yes, there will always be some dust, keep your back to the wind.

Most are actually molded by Berry Bullets

RCBS Rotary Case Media Separator - MPN: 87076

 

[Al W.]

I use the Dillon vibrator, its dusty I suppose , but compared to what ?
I wear a mask when I run it through the rotary strainer. I'll warrant that most of the debris sticks to the polishing medium which is corn cob. If your not overly vigorous when your straining it its not that dusty.
Wear a particle mask.
You should wear one when you load anyway.
If your punching out your primers and sizing and seating your already making plenty of lead dust.
So be careful . A 3M mask with lead rated filters costs about 30 bucks.
Keep the lid on the vibrator. Your good to go.

 

[rwsmith]

Some cleaning is necessary.....

I'm an economist. I did w/o cleaning for a long time, but got to where brass that was just plain grody wasn't good for my guns. I started washing brass in hot soapy water and drying them, which as adequate, but labor intensive, so I got a vibrator cleaner and really like it. The ONLY problems are the dust it generates and the cases getting stuck together with the media.

I could solve the dust by running the machine outside.

I could keep the cases from getting stuck together by not putting incompatible cases in each batch. (.32s get stuck in everything) Don't mix .40s with 9mms.

I bought a sieve and a big bucket to easily separate the media, but when I'm putting the brass in another container, I have to give the cases a mouth down tap or media will go with them. I also wipe the cases to get the dust off. So, it is more time and trouble but when I see my GLEAMING brass I feel like it's worth it.

I never cared about appearances but now I wouldn't go back. My thing in reloading was to be as ECONOMICAL as possible, even cheap to keep budget under control.