S&W 1911 .45 Scandium Commander Reliability?

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Just soliciting your functionality and reliability experience with the S&W 1911 .45 Scandium Commander model. I'm sure FMJ ball works fine, but how about HP's and other premium ammo?

Thanks Forum Members
 
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Never had an issue but I shoot almost exclusively my own hand loads. Factory ball is certainly no issue along with my own ball loads. I have maybe 100 rounds from it with hand loaded Hornady HP 230g and have had zero issues.

Short answer is no issues with any ammo I have shot but I haven't shot a great variety. I wouldn't worry about it.:)
 

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Haven't see any feeding issues with the 1911sc-E, either hot loads or handloads.

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845 & 1911sc-E
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Mine runs anything I put through it....it IS a Billboard version which is an early model...JRE prefix

Randy
 
Probably have 500 rounds thru mine with a few HP's,,,, perfect so far.
 
1911SC is my DC. After last weekend, knocking on 4K rounds. It feeds FMJ and HP equally well (regular and +P). I have shot 180gr to 230gr in both bullet types and it loves to eat anything I feed it. ONLY thing it does not like was some "low recoil" stuff a friend of mine handloaded (but none of that stuff will cycle through any of my 1911s).
All in all, the 1911SC is a wonderful reliable handgun. I highly recommend it.
 

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Mines just shy of 8k rounds of TZZ ball ammo with not one malfunctions. Accuracy at 31ft is running about 2.016" increasing up to 2.133" using GECO ball.

It has 500 rounds of the old 200gr JHP, flying ashtray, rounds and only one malfunction, and that occured when I inserted a promag in to see if it would function. My bad lol.
 
I own the 1911SC Bobtail. I shoot 230gr HST in it, and they are five inches too low at 15 yards. Will 185 grain Remington Golden Saber in standard or +p possibly hit higher, or will I be going in the wrong direction?
 
Are you sure it's the gun and not you ? Have someone else shoot it and see if they get the same results . Regards, Paul
 
I own the 1911SC Bobtail. I shoot 230gr HST in it, and they are five inches too low at 15 yards. Will 185 grain Remington Golden Saber in standard or +p possibly hit higher, or will I be going in the wrong direction?

Lighter grain bullets leave the barrel faster leaving less time for barrel rise. Use heavier ammo for higher impact point.
 
I have the S&W 1911 "Round Butt" and it handles anything very well. I shoot hollow point in practice, similar to what I carry and never have a problem.
 
The modern versions of the 1911, with good magazines, are likely to be equally reliable with round nose, hollow point, and semi-wadcutter ammo.
 
Have the round butt Commander and as far as ammo goes,,, it seems to shoot anything. As far as reliability,,, I have had issues. The first gun I had was replaced by S&W when the rivet on the slide plunger broke. The second gun had the same problem and I am expecting it's return from S&W tomorrow. So far, no comment from them on the fix or the problem.
 
Have the round butt Commander and as far as ammo goes,,, it seems to shoot anything. As far as reliability,,, I have had issues. The first gun I had was replaced by S&W when the rivet on the slide plunger broke. The second gun had the same problem and I am expecting it's return from S&W tomorrow. So far, no comment from them on the fix or the problem.



Someone please educate me on what is a "rivet on the slide plunger".
 
Someone please educate me on what is a "rivet on the slide plunger".

The plunger tube is not riveted. On the mating surface of the tube there are two protrusions, each has a small hole in its end. These protrusions fit through a pair of holes machined into the frame. The interior portions of the frame holes are chamfered and the protrusions on the plunger tube are swaged so that they expand and engage the chamfered portion of the holes.
 
Someone please educate me on what is a "rivet on the slide plunger".

Oops,,,, brain and fingers weren't in sync. Is "slide stop plunger tube" better ? I thought they looked like rivets, but being an actual part of the tube seems better, but I still wonder why I had 2 of them fail ?
 
Oops,,,, brain and fingers weren't in sync. Is "slide stop plunger tube" better ? I thought they looked like rivets, but being an actual part of the tube seems better, but I still wonder why I had 2 of them fail ?

My guess would be that cast or MIM parts are harder than parts machined from a bar, so that bit of upset metal that holds the plunger tube to the frame is more prone to cracking. The same goes for the internal extractor in a 1911. MIM and cast extractors are harder and more prone to cracking than one milled from bar stock, but the best extractor is one machined from spring steel.
 
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