Need Smith & Wesson New Model 3 Part

SW44Russian

Member
Joined
May 25, 2018
Messages
17
Reaction score
22
Location
Arizona
Hi, and thanks for having me on the forum. My Smith & Wesson New Model 3 needs a part. I'm not sure of the specific name, but it's a part of the extractor cam assembly. It may be called a lifter, but I'm not sure. It's the tab that gets "bumped under" the frame to facilitate ejector retraction. The surface that contacts the revolver frame has become so worn that the ejector does not retract after ejecting spent cartridges, unless I manually push on it with a fingernail, only then it retracts back in. I've searched Numrich, Gunbroker, Ebay, learned that David Chicoine has passed away, etc., looking for this part. I can have a gunsmith micro-weld to build up the worn area or file down the tab, but I only want to do that as a last resort. Does anyone have a spare that I can purchase? I'd be happy to buy an extractor cam assembly as a package if I need to also. Thank you very much for your help,
- Joe
 

Attachments

  • E5375B65-E7DF-40BA-9F8D-93F2A7DD2331.jpg
    E5375B65-E7DF-40BA-9F8D-93F2A7DD2331.jpg
    140.2 KB · Views: 111
  • B57F9B6C-B3B7-4D8B-87E5-54A4DCD4E84C.jpg
    B57F9B6C-B3B7-4D8B-87E5-54A4DCD4E84C.jpg
    101 KB · Views: 96
  • F481B765-5C56-48CE-8F2F-B1C8E6985CBD.jpg
    F481B765-5C56-48CE-8F2F-B1C8E6985CBD.jpg
    27.8 KB · Views: 103
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
David Chicoine passed away? Hate to hear it. He could have fixed it for sure.
 
Chris Hirsch, Sugar Land, Texas, is a gunsmith specializing in the repair and restoration of antique firearms. His contact information may be found on his web site. He most certainly can repair your revolver. He very well may also have the needed parts on hand. I can't say whether or not he sells such parts.

Last I heard, Dave Chicoine has not passed away. He suffered a debilitating stroke perhaps five years ago, and has done no work since.

Ralph Tremaine
 
Welcome to the Forum. I have limited experience with the New Model 3 SAs, but that looks like it could be a Japanese Navy example. The "shelf" ejector rod housing under the barrel looks longer than the NM3? Also, the lanyard ring looks like what was used on the Japanese Navy guns? Look for an anchor on the underside of the frame just behind the extractor cam?

As for the part, it could take you days or years to find what you need. My guess is years, so I think your best bet is to rebuild the extractor cam. The spring and assembly look to be in good condition so building up the part may be the best way to go.
 
I need some clarity. The extractor lifts to the limit but needs prodding to fall back into the cylinder recess? I'm slow so please use small words. Thanks.
 
Welcome to the forum! I have several large frame top breaks but none as early as yours.
You have the very early version of the NM#3 that uses the earlier 'rack and pinion' ejector system. The later NM#3s use the same 'cam' style as most of the smaller top breaks and are interchangeable with the .44DA. The early ones are similar to the Russian models. I'm pretty sure I used to have a spare one like you need. I sent a few parts to another member a year or two ago who concentrates on early large frames. He may still have them. Find and send a message to Sal. His user name is model3sw.
Good luck!
Chris
SWCA #2243
 
Welcome to the forum! I have several large frame top breaks but none as early as yours.
You have the very early version of the NM#3 that uses the earlier 'rack and pinion' ejector system. The later NM#3s use the same 'cam' style as most of the smaller top breaks and are interchangeable with the .44DA. The early ones are similar to the Russian models. I'm pretty sure I used to have a spare one like you need. I sent a few parts to another member a year or two ago who concentrates on early large frames. He may still have them. Find and send a message to Sal. His user name is model3sw.
Good luck!
Chris
SWCA #2243

Thanks Chris, I definitely will.
 
Welcome to the forum and while I am in no way an expert on any subject I am an expert on knowing who the experts are and that is almost as good . These guys are not only expects in their chosen interests but that are honest you'll find no bull here .So if they recommend a person or a service you can be assured of dealing with quality folks .Just wanted to give a little thanks and a compliment to these guys they deserve it.
 
Allow me to weigh in here. The arm for that extractor is near impossible to find. Usually when these fail that tiny piece of spring steel pressed into the inner part of the extractor gear is gone / missing, the gear would have stress cracks and that little swing arm is usually *****-ed (messed up beyond all recognition). That seems not to be the problem here. Yours "appears" to be OK.

Use a correct size, hollow ground screwdriver or screwdriver-bit to remove the top screw on the barrel just above the cylinder. That screw holds the piece of spring steel (bent to a right angle where it touches the rear of the cylinder) that retains the cylinder from popping out when you open the revolver as to extract the shells.

After that top screw is out, slide the retaining bit of spring steel out rearward (it some right out easily). Then, raise and hold the latch as high as it will go and unscrew the cylinder counter clockwise as you pull it toward you.

If anything goes wrong here, e.g. if the cylinder comes straight out without having to pull or unscrew it out, contact me via email.

Either post or send me (via email) pictures of the barrel and cylinder with the cylinder removed. Close up on the threads of the cylinder axis tube.

Let's see what you have, exactly at this point of dissembly. Remember a few rules ... 1. don't ever FORCE anything back in place and 2. NEVER try to pry the sideplate off (even though this process does not require it removed) 3. Another is that you always point the long part of the barrel away from you but if you made it to this forum, we usually presume you know this already).

Often the spring (a coil spring) installed on the center extractor rod ... when old and worn ... stretches or starts to "unwind" / broaden to the point that it chafes the inside of the cylinder axis hole causing it to hang up ... exactly what you describe. (other issues could cause the same issue, too, but that spring is prime suspect). Another is that it had been apart and whomever reassembled it did not match the gear and internal teeth , tooth for tooth, likely had been one or more teeth off.

Check the cylinder axis tube (it stays on the frame when you take the cylinder out) for tightness and alignment. If the axis tube is loose or worn could be either "the" or part of the problem.

If everything seems OK clean well, some oil, then reset / match the gear teeth that they match, tooth for tooth.

Make sure the joint screw is installed properly. Match the alignment strike on the pin to the correct side with the matching strike line. That alignment strike is only on one side of the frame, the right side, IIRC.

Don't over tighten the screw, although if it is in the correct position, it should not matter. Either way just snug it and try again.
 
Last edited:
Allow me to weigh in here. The arm for that extractor is near impossible to find. Usually when these fail that tiny piece of spring steel pressed into the inner part of the extractor gear is gone / missing, the gear would have stress cracks and that little swing arm is usually *****-ed (messed up beyond all recognition). That seems not to be the problem here. Yours appears good.

Use a correct size, hollow ground screwdriver or screwdriver-bit to remove the top screw on the barrel just above the cylinder. That screw holds the piece of spring steel (bent to a right angle where it touches the rear of the cylinder) that retains the cylinder from popping out when you open the revolver as to extract the shells.

After that top screw is out, slide the retaining bit of spring steel out rearward (it some right out easily). Then, raise and hold the latch as high as it will go and unscrew the cylinder counter clockwise as you pull it toward you.

If anything goes wrong here, e.g. if the cylinder comes straight out without having to pull or unscrew it out, contact me via email.

Either post or send me (via email) pictures of the barrel and cylinder with the cylinder removed. Close up on the threads of the cylinder axis tube.

Let's see what you have, exactly at this point of dissembly. Remember a few rules ... 1. don't ever FORCE anything back in place and 2. NEVER try to pry the sideplate off (even though this process does not require it removed) 3. Another is that you always point the long part of the barrel away from you but if you made it to this forum, we usually presume you know this already).

Often the spring (a coil spring) installed on the center extractor rod ... when old and worn ... stretches or starts to "unwind" / broaden to the point that it chafes the inside of the cylinder axis hole causing it to hang up ... exactly what you describe. (other issues could cause the same issue, too, but that spring is prime suspect). Another is that it had been apart and whomever reassembled it did not match the gear and internal teeth , tooth for tooth, likely had been one or more teeth off.

Check the cylinder axis tube (it stays on the frame when you take the cylinder out) for tightness and alignment. If the axis tube is loose or worn could be either "the" or part of the problem.

If everything seems OK clean well, some oil, then reset / match the gear teeth that they match, tooth for tooth.

Make sure the joint screw is installed properly. Match the alignment strike on the pin to the correct side with the matching strike line. That alignment strike is only on one side of the frame, the right side, IIRC.

Don't over tighten the screw, although if it is in the correct position, it should not matter. Either way just snug it and try again.

Hi Sal, I'll get it apart and post some pictures as soon as I can. Thank you much.
 
Welcome to the Forum. I have limited experience with the New Model 3 SAs, but that looks like it could be a Japanese Navy example. The "shelf" ejector rod housing under the barrel looks longer than the NM3? Also, the lanyard ring looks like what was used on the Japanese Navy guns? Look for an anchor on the underside of the frame just behind the extractor cam?

As for the part, it could take you days or years to find what you need. My guess is years, so I think your best bet is to rebuild the extractor cam. The spring and assembly look to be in good condition so building up the part may be the best way to go.

Hi Gary, I didn't see an anchor where mentioned, but it does have what seems to be an arsenal marking next to the lanyard. It's a large "2" on the butt. Any ideas? Thanks man.
 
Hi Gary, I didn't see an anchor where mentioned, but it does have what seems to be an arsenal marking next to the lanyard. It's a large "2" on the butt. Any ideas? Thanks man.

The first contract of 232 guns to Japanese Navy are pretty much known to be within serial number range 5611-5701. The second contract of 600 guns were numbered in 9001-9600 range. If it falls within the first contract, supply the serial number and I can check it against the list. Not all these export NM3s have the anchor mark, but most did.
 
Joe, if you are hesitant to post the serial number here, post it with a xx for the last 2 digits or email the full serial number to me.

The full serial number is located on the butt, the face of the cylinder, the underside of the latch and on the barrel itself, in the rear recessed area, visible only with the clasp raised to full extent. You may need a Q-tip to clean out the recess. Let me know if all the Serial number match.

Need to rule out the consideration that you may have a NM3 Frontier in .44-40 Winchester. The New Model 3 Frontiers have a few unique issues not commonly encountered on the NM3 chambered in .44 Russian.

Try a Winchester .44-40 round into the cylinder. Let me know if it seats properly.
 
Last edited:
Thank you Sal for the fine dissertation. We have company here so I try to limit my responses to 35 words or less.
 
The first contract of 232 guns to Japanese Navy are pretty much known to be within serial number range 5611-5701. The second contract of 600 guns were numbered in 9001-9600 range. If it falls within the first contract, supply the serial number and I can check it against the list. Not all these export NM3s have the anchor mark, but most did.

Hey Gary, it looks like I missed out on the Jap contract. My serial # is 8297. Thanks,
- Joe
 
Joe, if you are hesitant to post the serial number here, post it with a xx for the last 2 digits or email the full serial number to me.

The full serial number is located on the butt, the face of the cylinder, the underside of the latch and on the barrel itself, in the rear recessed area, visible only with the clasp raised to full extent. You may need a Q-tip to clean out the recess. Let me know if all the Serial number match.

Need to rule out the consideration that you may have a NM3 Frontier in .44-40 Winchester. The New Model 3 Frontiers have a few unique issues not commonly encountered on the NM3 chambered in .44 Russian.

Try a Winchester .44-40 round into the cylinder. Let me know if it seats properly.

Hey Sal, my serial # is 8297. I don't have any 44-40 on hand, but I'll be able to get my hands on one within the week. I'll also be posting those photos you asked for in a few hours. For what it's worth, I appreciate the depth of your responses. Thank you,
- Joe
 
Photos for model3sw

Hey Sal, here are those photos you asked for. Thanks,
- Joe
 

Attachments

  • 850FD13C-4E27-44CE-8460-D9551C599DF2.jpg
    850FD13C-4E27-44CE-8460-D9551C599DF2.jpg
    70 KB · Views: 54
  • 2F029B72-3BC5-4994-ACD4-951B9A61C4EC.jpg
    2F029B72-3BC5-4994-ACD4-951B9A61C4EC.jpg
    65.1 KB · Views: 50
  • 0F88AB83-E078-485E-AAC4-F633C8BB2028.jpg
    0F88AB83-E078-485E-AAC4-F633C8BB2028.jpg
    49.4 KB · Views: 48
  • 74C0F0B1-4C01-4460-813C-2F1E1151962E.jpg
    74C0F0B1-4C01-4460-813C-2F1E1151962E.jpg
    83.9 KB · Views: 49
  • 7823A2B6-7AD1-4818-B5C3-8CD2FC08BA17.jpg
    7823A2B6-7AD1-4818-B5C3-8CD2FC08BA17.jpg
    57.9 KB · Views: 46
Back
Top