.32-20

Keep in mind that your jacketed rounds from HSM, Stevensville, MT. 100 grain JHP , may have a low powder charge.

If fired in a rifle you may very well have the same thing happen, so be sure you check to make sure they are coming out of the barrel of the rifle when fired. You don't want a bulged barrel in that 1892 .
 
Don't have a 32-20, but do have some HSM 38 Special ammo.
Before I read this thread, I thought that I liked it!
Anybody having trouble with any other caliber HSM ammo?
 
Never had any problems with HSM bullets, I used to shoot .308 range stuff through my M1-A with never a hitch.
I've had more than my fair share of problems reloading for the 32-20, I would say they were all my fault. It is not an easy cartridge to reload in my opinion, care is to be exercised at the case mouth more than usual. Once you have it figured out and understand it foibles it is as straight forward as the rest, just a little touchy.

I tried to reload a batch too soon after running through my sonic cleaner and had a series of failed primers with more than one squib, I pulled the rest of the bullets and started over, problem solved, never rush a reloading process..lesson learned.


Never had a problem with any factory Remington or Winchester 32-20 ammunition. Right as rain and all of it function without any problems through my S&W 32-20's. My wife's kitchen gun is loaded with Winchester factory stuff...100 gr. lead round nose.
 
Trail Boss powder for me and 93 grain LRN. I always keep the bullets light in these old revolvers, since pressures will be lower at any given velocity. No need to have heavy bullets since they will all go through paper. Actually have a box of 76 grain LRN bullets for 32 S&W DAs and am thinking of trying them out in my 1899s.

One possible reason why you see bulged barrels in 32-20s vs 38 Special because the 32-20 barrels have very thick walls. I bet many 38 barrels would have split and needed replacement, while a 32-20 barrel would absorb the abnormal pressure spikes.

Lastly, I am in the camp that one should not use jacketed bullets in a 120 year old gun. Pressures are higher than lead bullets of equal weight and charge. The only good reason to use such a bullet for target shooting is if you want high velocities, which you definitely do not want in your 1899.

Wow, all the way through paper! :eek:
Kidding aside though, my old S&W 32-20 was a very accurate revolver with modern Winchester 100 gr lead.
 
I have a few 32-20 in both revolver and rifle form and my normal load is 4227 under a 115/118gn FP cast bullet. Those "cowboy" loads are usually going to be slower than factory velocity ammo. If you are trying to avoid bullets stuck in your bore I'm not sure slower bullets is the way I would go. But I think you are right is staying with lead if your bore is in any kind of shape.
 
my normal load is 4227 under a 115/118gn FP cast bullet.

I believe I read somewhere recently (maybe Handloader) that IMR 4227 is no longer produced. Anyone know if this is true?

If so, it is too bad. It is a good powder for certain applications. I think I only have a pound of it left.
 
Depends, if it is older stock it may be the rifle ammo. But I do not believe any manufacturer today is making 32-20 in the rifle loads. The rifle loads are definitely not safe for 100 year old gun.

You WILL NOT find any of the HV rifle loads on any dealer's shelves today (except maybe an antique ammo dealer). It hasn't been loaded for nearly 60 years. All of it used 80 grain jacketed HP bullets. None used lead bullets.

I will not fire any revolver rapid fire. Too much chance of barrel bulging if there is a squib load. I like to hear each round fire before I pull the trigger again. Over the years I have experienced several squib loads that could have been disastrous had I not recognized them in time for what they were. And jacketed bullets are much more difficult to pound out of a barrel than are lead bullets. And in one case (involving a rifle) I nearly gave up on pounding a stuck jacketed bullet out. I shot it out instead. Old trick - take a primed case and give it about a half-charge of smokeless powder. Then chamber and fire it. It will blow out the stuck bullet without damage. That trick will not work for a revolver.
 
I believe I read somewhere recently (maybe Handloader) that IMR 4227 is no longer produced. Anyone know if this is true?

If so, it is too bad. It is a good powder for certain applications. I think I only have a pound of it left.

I don't know about that. Hodgdon makes (made?) H4227 which is essentially the same powder. So is Shooter's World Heavy Pistol, which is a ball powder. 4227 is also a great powder for lighter loads in CF rifles using cast lead bullets. I use it in both .300 Savage and .308 Win for lead bullet loads.
 
32-20 can be a dangerous caliber because of the different ages and strengths of handguns. Also, be very careful to not confuse 32-20 for rifle with 32-20 for handguns.

4227 is fairly slow and I use a lot of it for magnum and maximum. Excellent accuracy.
I like it a lot better than 296 or 110 because it is not erratic when downloaded like 296/110. Use magnum primer for complete ignition.
I'm getting about 1350fps in my Ruger Buckeye 32-20, but it may be the strongest revolver out there for the 32-20. NEVER use a hot load in older, weaker frames.


For medium revolver loads I would go with 231. I call this 900fps

Trail Boss is a fast powder, accurate, and fills the case. TB for lighter loads around 700fps.


Prescut
 
Last edited:
We will never know condition and cleanliness of barrel prior to
That first shot of op. It may have been 70 years since anything passed they bore including cleaning patch. Normally if I see daylight thru a bore I take it as a good sign !!!
 
Back
Top