Took my M-38 out frame cracked under barrel

These do crack but they are rare occurrences, it's not a normal thing. Recognize we only hear about those that do crack on the forums, not about the 100,000 that didn't crack.

Keep your grips when you send it in, Smith won't care and they'll just be thrown in a junk barrel at the factory. It wouldn't matter to Smith and you might as well have them as spares or to resell (for your trouble).

Take your pick and of what they offer as a replacement. If you don't like it, sell it and get top dollar as a new gun in the box, even if you test fire it. Then go shopping for another Mod 38. There's a zillion out there w/o cracked frames. And you'll know just what to look for when inspecting potential replacement!
 
Exact same thing happened to my model 38. Same crack in the same place. The frame is very thin at that point. I contacted S&W and they sent me a label with instructions on how to send it to them. Later, I got an email telling me that it was not repairable and would be replaced with a 638. Good advice on keeping the grips. I did and it was not a concern. My only cost through the whole procedure was the transfer fee ($10) that my FFL charged. Hang on to your factory box too if you have it.
 
Usually that crack is from over torquing and you can see if they will replace it with the new Model 638, or if you don't want the lock, a 642. Over torquing is not your fault, and if you ask nicely, perhaps they will replace it, which will give you a newer, better gun.
 
Whatever happened with this? Inquiring minds and all that, ya' know . . .

Not quite 6 weeks from start to finish as you mentioned......though it would be interesting to know if he sent it back and when, so we could start the clock ticking. Alas, like so many of these posts we seldom hear the end......I will be back in a few weeks just to check.
 
I've seen cracked m38s. I always thought it was firing a lot of hot ammo.
I've since read about ones that crack came from over torque of barrel. If
one cracks under normal use it still could be from torque. It may not be
cracked from factory but if stress is there, shooting may crack it. I just
wonder how many are cracked and owners don't know it.
 
It's in a area most do not look at. But when buying one this is the first place to look!!
 
For a work gun the 638 is more robust and +P rated to boot.

It sure is. Mine brought me safely through nighttime casino parking lots many times before I discovered the M&P 340 (and the wisdom of using valet parking!). The 638 is a gun I would not sell.

FWIW: On one 638 in my pal's LGS, I felt a burr somewhere inside the action when trying to cock it SA that prevented the hammer from fully retracting and locking back. Yeah, I know, 638s are not meant to be fired SA :rolleyes:, but it's something to BOLO for. Congrats and good shooting.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
 
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