27-2 Hammer Block missing

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Mzuri

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I bought a 27-2 (my first and only N frame) a couple years ago and until today I had never taken the side plate off. I have never really been happy with its double action trigger (lots of crunchy mechanical activity and it's not nearly as smooth as my Ks or Ls or even Js) so I took the plate off to lube the innards to see if that made any difference. When I got the side plate off I realized that the hammer block was not present.

Questions:

Is there a reason someone might have removed it intentionally?

Or is it more likely that the previous owner just got tired of searching the dark corners of his garage floor after it bounced away?

Is it possible that the poor double action trigger is attributable to the missing hammer block?

And I assume Numrich is the best place to look for a replacement?

And the DA trigger really has been a disappointment. It's clearly set up as target gun-target trigger, target hammer, and target stocks, but red ramp front sight, so I assume that the poor trigger is because the previous owner(s) mostly shot it single action. I am hoping that today's cleaning and lubrication followed by lots of dry fire will improve it.
 
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Most likely intentionally removed. Many people believe the hammer block has a negative effect on the trigger pull. These people are mistaken. The hammer block serves a vital purpose in the action and should never be removed.

The double action could be a disappointment because of other improper things done to the action by the previous owner.

Numrich will likely have the correct one in stock.....if you contact S&W and explain the problem, they may send you one at no charge if they are available. S&W Customer Service, 1-800-331-0852. Have your serial number available when you call.

Hammer Block, New Factory Original | Gun Parts Corp.
 
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hammer block missing

From my experience, the hammer block has a vital role in safety with the gun. But if it's removed also removes friction. Your choice if you remove realize that if it's not there, the gun may go off when dropped on the hammer.
I'd advise looking at any wear areas within the mechanics. You will see areas that are worn which co-notates resistance. Use a dremel and polishing wheel to smooth out all these worn and rough areas. Also take out the rebound spring housing and smooth the heck out of the surface that contacts the frame, playing close attention to removing the hard edge on it.

If you slowly squeeze the trigger to final d/a release, you will feel rough spots while doing so. Doing the above should remove some of them. Don't hesitate to use Youtube to tune your gun!
 
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I’ve never seen an N-frame yet that’s been tuned to have the DA pull of a proper K-frame. Please replace the hammer block and under no circumstances abuse your revolver with a Dremel tool. I’d suggest you look around for a competent smith/armorer if your revolver needs attention and you’re even considering a Dremel.
 
trigger pull

I own a !936 Registered Magnum that has a super great double action. None of my postwar revolvers N, K,or J can match it.
SWCA 892
 
Purchased several Smiths yesterday and a 19-3 that was part of the mix did not have a hammer block in it when I disassembled it to clean out 47 years of accumulated gunk. I looked in my spare parts box and I had one. Put it back together correctly. Not the first one I have found with the block missing.
 
Any removal of a factory installed safety device not only constitutes an increased danger to the shooter and bystanders, but also places an additional civil liability burden on the gun owner. There is simply no justifiable reason to remove the hammer block, or any other integral safety device.

This condition, could result in an accident resulting in serious injury or death......an accident that could have easily been prevented. Quite a heavy burden to bear after the fact.
 
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armorer951 said:
Any removal of a factory installed safety device not only constitutes an increased danger to the shooter and bystanders, but also places an additional civil liability burden on the gun owner. There is simply no justifiable reason to remove the hammer block, or any other integral safety device.

This condition, could result in an accident resulting in serious injury or death......an accident that could have easily been prevented. Quite a heavy burden to bear after the fact.
Click to expand...

Its also quite possible that the block was not installed at the factory by a accident of oversight. With all the tilted barrel threads I have seen its conceivable that this part was just overlooked when assembled. Its not like a no block is going to hinder the function of the gun. If your not well up on your revolver knowledge (like never take a gun apart) you could own a gun for decades and not know that part is missing.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

I have a new hammer block on the way. My current plan with the trigger is to see what a lot of dry fire will do for it before I invest in trigger work or anything else costly.

I am also thinking about replacing the trigger itself. It has target trigger and I don't really shoot single action all that much, so I might put a combat trigger in it instead.
 
NYlakesider said:
Its also quite possible that the block was not installed at the factory by a accident of oversight. With all the tilted barrel threads I have seen its conceivable that this part was just overlooked when assembled. Its not like a no block is going to hinder the function of the gun. If your not well up on your revolver knowledge (like never take a gun apart) you could own a gun for decades and not know that part is missing.
Click to expand...


Yes sir, you are correct, anything is possible.

My appeal was primarily directed at those who have removed, or are contemplating removal of a factory installed safety from their firearm.....in this case, the S&W designed hammer block. And, since the removal of this device is a common blunder, please check your S&W revolvers for this important integrated safety. You don't have to remove the sideplate to do so. The "flag" on top of the hammer block stem is plainly visible under the hammer. If your gun is missing the block, contact me and I'll send you one.

Many wrongly believe that the hammer block serves no viable purpose, and that it's presence somehow impacts the revolver's action in a negative way. This is not true.
 
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Mzuri said:
Thanks for all the replies.

I have a new hammer block on the way. My current plan with the trigger is to see what a lot of dry fire will do for it before I invest in trigger work or anything else costly.

I am also thinking about replacing the trigger itself. It has target trigger and I don't really shoot single action all that much, so I might put a combat trigger in it instead.
Click to expand...

Actually shooting your gun at least 500 rounds before you do any trigger work is a great idea. Dry firing is intended to accomplish the same thing, but I would refrain from a lot of it, lest you risk a broken nose or even a hammer spur. I suppose snap caps might help in this regard. FWIW, I couldn’t agree more about full-target triggers. I always have thought they were a solution in search of a problem that doesn’t exist, but everyone except me seems to like them. :rolleyes:
 
M29since14 said:
Actually shooting your gun at least 500 rounds before you do any trigger work is a great idea. Dry firing is intended to accomplish the same thing, but I would refrain from a lot of it, lest you risk a broken nose or even a hammer spur. I suppose snap caps might help in this regard. FWIW, I couldn’t agree more about full-target triggers. I always have thought they were a solution in search of a problem that doesn’t exist, but everyone except me seems to like them. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Not everyone.:) I shot a lot of PPC in the 70s early 80s and my trigger of choice was the Ranger trigger (AKA combat Trigger) I only shot DA as why learn 2 distinct trigger maneuvers.:D

I put one in my 28 6'' and in my 15 2'' and I like the way they feel. The 15 was used for what we called the off duty class barrels 2 3/4 or shorter. On occasion I did carry it as CCW.

Years back as a favor I installed a couple Rangers in friends Smith's

I still have 2 29s in the safe 4'' & 8 3/8 and they both have the stock wide trigger and hammer!
 
When reassembling, the hammer block can cause problems for the inexperienced. I can see an impatient person saying " to hell with this thing" and throwing it into their parts box. I know when I first began to work on S&W's it annoyed the hell out of me.
 
i had the same thing happen with a 27-2 i bought recently. ****** almost bindy double action. i bought a replament hammr block on ebay and cocked, decocked the 27 a few hundred times and she smoothed out nicely.
 
Mzuri said:
Thanks for all the replies.

I have a new hammer block on the way. My current plan with the trigger is to see what a lot of dry fire will do for it before I invest in trigger work or anything else costly.

I am also thinking about replacing the trigger itself. It has target trigger and I don't really shoot single action all that much, so I might put a combat trigger in it instead.
Click to expand...

Combat trigger is appropriate for DA action!
 
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