Help. Disassembly of extractor rod on M66-8

[scruffy]

M66-8 Cylinder disassembly/extractor rod

Cleaning my model 66-8 and removed the yoke and cylinder from the frame. Went to disassemble the extractor rod from the cylinder and gripped the rod with a pliers (rubber cushion around the knurled end of the rod) and to my surprise the small knurled tip unscrewed from the rod when rotated in the clockwise direction.

How does the extractor rod, cup and springs get removed from the cylinder? Looked on line but all the videos show a one piece extractor rod with solid knurled tip attached as on the 686's.
- Thanks.

 

[scruffy]

Cleaned my model 66-8 and removed the yoke and cylinder from the frame. Went to disassemble the extractor rod from the cylinder and gripped the rod with a pliers (rubber cushion around the knurled end of the rod). To my surprise the small knurled tip unscrewed from the rod when rotated in the clockwise direction. The rod is hollow and I have no idea how to get it, the cup and springs out of the cylinder.

How does the extractor rod get removed? Looked on line and search engine here but all the videos show a typical one piece extractor rod with solid knurled tip attached as on the 686's. I read the new M66 and M69 extractor rods were similar to those on X-frame revolvers, but could not find anything helpful on that either.
- Thanks.
__________________

 

[Hondo44]

First: extractor rods and knobs have had left hand threads since about 1961, I and J frames since ~ the end of WWII. This is to prevent unscrewing due to the counterclockwise direction of the cyl travel.

The rod has a very long fine left hand thread that is very tight from the factory. When normal common sense methods including soaking, fail to unscrew, the next thing is a special clamping tool from Brownells to prevent damage. Always use three empty cases in the chambers to prevent damage to the extractor 'star'.

Normally current spray cleaners can do a very good cleaning job without disassembly. But there's always a case where deep cleaning disassembly may be needed or for repairs. the tool is a safe way to also retighten the pieces sufficiently after assembly.

 

[scruffy]

First: extractor rods and knobs have had left hand threads since about 1961, I and J frames since ~ the end of WWII. This is to prevent unscrewing due to the counterclockwise direction of the cyl travel.

The rod has a very long fine left hand thread that is very tight from the factory. When normal common sense methods including soaking, fail to unscrew, the next thing is a special clamping tool from Brownells to prevent damage. Always use three empty cases in the chambers to prevent damage to the extractor 'star'.

Normally current spray cleaners can do a very good cleaning job without disassembly. But there's always a case where deep cleaning disassembly may be needed or for repairs. the tool is a safe way to also retighten the pieces sufficiently after assembly.

Thank you. I understand that. I have disassembled cylinders and extractor rods on my 686-6 and several J-frames. On this particular gun, M66-8 the small knurled tip of the extractor rod has a left hand thread and unscrews from the rod itself which is hollow and remains with the cylinder. I can't figure out how to get that rod separated from the cylinder and don't want to force anything not knowing how it comes apart.

 

[OldChief]

That's a new one on me too. I checked the 4th ed. of the Catalog and couldn't find any mention of an engineering change like you describe to the extractor rod. There could have been a change since the Catalog was printed in 2016. The -8 is the last change listed but that doesn't mean there couldn't have been another in the past 4 years. I'm sure there is someone out there that knows more than I who will set us straight. Did you purchase that revolver new and if you did, when?

 

[SLT223]

The same way as the old ones. Grab the ejector rod by the shaft. The knurled end unscrews from the rod bc its outside diameter doesn’t clear the yoke.

 

[Hondo44]

Thank you. I understand that. I have disassembled cylinders and extractor rods on my 686-6 and several J-frames. On this particular gun, M66-8 the small knurled tip of the extractor rod has a left hand thread and unscrews from the rod itself which is hollow and remains with the cylinder. I can't figure out how to get that rod separated from the cylinder and don't want to force anything not knowing how it comes apart.

Scruffy,

No I don't think you do understand that, please read this again:

The rod has a very long fine left hand thread that is very tight from the factory.

Removing the rod is no different from your other models.

 

[scruffy]

The same way as the old ones. Grab the ejector rod by the shaft. The knurled end unscrews from the rod bc its outside diameter doesn’t clear the yoke.

So grab the hollow rod after the knurled tip is removed and turn the shaft clockwise, (left hand threads also?) to remove the rod? I'll try it but need to get a good bite on it without damaging the shaft. Thanks.

 

[scruffy]

That's a new one on me too. I checked the 4th ed. of the Catalog and couldn't find any mention of an engineering change like you describe to the extractor rod. There could have been a change since the Catalog was printed in 2016. The -8 is the last change listed but that doesn't mean there couldn't have been another in the past 4 years. I'm sure there is someone out there that knows more than I who will set us straight. Did you purchase that revolver new and if you did, when?

Yes, new from LGS after the 66-8 was released in 2015-16. I read the extractor rod is similar to the one in X-frames where the knurled tip needs to be taken off to clear the crane, but can't find any disassembly info on that either.

 

[scruffy]

Scruffy,

No I don't think you do understand that, please read this again:



Removing the rod is no different from your other models.

Except the knurled tip which is left hand threaded also screws off leaving the hollow shaft in place in the cylinder. Are you saying get a good grip on the hollow rod/shaft and remove it the same way without the tip? I'll give it a try. Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.

 

[SLT223]

So grab the hollow rod after the knurled tip is removed and turn the shaft clockwise, (left hand threads also?) to remove the rod? I'll try it but need to get a good bite on it without damaging the shaft. Thanks.

I think it’s counter clockwise, but it has been a while for me. Here’s the tool I use.

BROWNELLS EXTRACTOR ROD TOOL FOR S&W | Brownells

 

[Hondo44]

Except the knurled tip which is left hand threaded also screws off leaving the hollow shaft in place in the cylinder. Are you saying get a good grip on the hollow rod/shaft and remove it the same way without the tip? I'll give it a try. Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.

Yes. You don't want to crush the hollow rod. They will crush with enough pressure but still not enough to unscrew it.

Hence the special clamp is the best.

I found this for the 500 Mag with the same extractor knob and rod as the 66-8:

500 Mag smith and wesson disassembly - Google Search

 

[usagunsandgear]

Model 66-8 extractor rod cap

Yes to remove the cap it is left hand thread.

Thanks,
Bob

 

[usagunsandgear]

extractor rod

It would be best to use the the tool.
Or buy a new extractor rod.

416110000 Smith & Wesson K Frame Model 66-8 & Up Extractor Rod New