Luxury Watches

For a close look at the stories behind some of the world's greatest
mechanical watches, a book called A Grand Complication is interesting. Mostly covers the rivalry between James Ward Packard (Packard Electric and Packard Motor cars) and a financier named Graves, and their years of trying to one-up each other with more complicated Patek Philippe timepieces.

See also Longitude--an interesting book on the history and development of the marine chronometer, with accounts of the skulduggery among competitors for England's longitude prize.
 
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Back in the last part of the 1800s and into the first part of the 1900s, Swiss watches weren't considered to be very good. The US had the leading watch industry in the world at the time which lasted into the 1950s and Swiss watches were actually looked down on until just prior to World War II.


There is a category of vintage watches now called "Swiss Fakes". From The Renaissance Watch Repair website: In an effort to earn a share of the lucrative American watch market, Swiss watch manufacturers began producing watches which superficially resembled American railroad-grade pocket watches, but which were of lower quality and sold at a much lower price. Many of these watches had names which closely resembled the names or initials of American manufacturers and watch models. These name choices were not coincidental... they were quite deliberately chosen to be deceptive, and were often engraved in lettering that copied the style of the original.
 
In 1985 I paid $1000 for a brand new Rolex GMT Master and wore it nearly every day for the next 20 years. The last time I sent it in for service, the dealer contacted me and offered to buy it. I declined, he upped his offer significantly, negotiations ensued, and I finally sold it to him for $5200. According to him, one of his customers had 3 sons and he wanted to buy each one of them a GMT Master that was certified on their birthday. After a long search, mine completed the trifecta.

I took part of the money and purchased a used Rolex Explorer which I wore for a couple of years until I sold it. Since then I've worn a couple of discontinued Seiko quartz diver's watches known as the Black Knight and the White Knight. Certainly not in the luxury watch category, but they look good, keep accurate time, and servicing is both infrequent and reasonable.
 

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Here's a bit of interesting info I learned from an older gentleman who used to work on my watches in my town. He passed a few years back in his late 90s and had been a jeweler and watch smith for most of his life as a career then kept it up as a hobby after he retired, which is how I met him. This is his perspective so take it for what it's worth...

Back in the last part of the 1800s and into the first part of the 1900s, Swiss watches weren't considered to be very good. The US had the leading watch industry in the world at the time which lasted into the 1950s and Swiss watches were actually looked down on until just prior to World War II.

Why? It had a lot to do with industrialization and how they were made. In the US, a typical watch factory made nearly every piece of the watch literally "under one roof". The Swiss, at that time however, had lots of individual parts made by individual craftsmen over the long winter, usually at home in small shops. In the spring everything was shipped back to a factory to be assembled into watches.

The problem was consistency, or what we know of today as Quality Control. With so many different craftsmen and so many different shops spread out all over Switzerland where communications was slow at best, when all of the parts were finally gathered it took an expert watchmaker to literally hand-fit the parts together, adjusting each as needed to make a watch. Meanwhile back in the US factories, consistency was closely monitored and communications were quick and easy so variances were much smaller and more quickly found.

This was an issue mostly noted by professional jewelers and watchsmiths of the day (like the gentleman I mentioned earlier). If your watch broke and it was Made in the USA, your jeweler would have no problem ordering a part that would fit and installing it without a lot of work. If you had a Swiss watch, however, the parts were not only much harder to get but because of the variances found in them from so many different workshops each one had to be hand-fitted and custom adjusted - which took a lot more work and time.

But since the Swiss embraced the "American Way" of making watches in the early 20th century and the US (as well as the British, French and German) watch industry literally collapsed in the 1960/70s due to cheap labor overseas, the Swiss were literally the only ones left standing now making high-quality, high-precision watches.

Must be why the Hamilton was considered the "Patek of the US" back in the day.
 
03hemi--

Thanks. I started with an Omega Seamaster I bought in St. Thomas, the "Great White" model, which I gave to my son, who is USAF. Later, I was given a Ball Engineer HYdrocarbon GMT by a friend, and it spawned my interest in Ball watches.

Recently, I renewed my interest in Omegas, and found the Seamaster 300M at a local jeweler and traded/bought it. I was initially reluctant to buy it because it was a quartz model (most of my watches are mechanical) but I learned to love the simplicity of not having to wind it!

The two Breitlings (Aerospace and B1) are quartz as well. I find the Aerospace hellishly difficult to set the time on, though. Breitling directions are poor at best.

The Hamilton Polaris was a gift from my parents when I graduated high school in 1964, and is so engraved on the case back. It's 14K gold.

The Ball WorldTimer is a favorite of mine, and it is an early model which spells Dhaka incorrectly, corrected quickly on later watches.

I enjoy all of them--I always need to buy extra-long straps/bracelets as my wrists are large!

Tim
 
Must be why the Hamilton was considered the "Patek of the US" back in the day.

Hamilton made fewer watches overall (which still numbered in the millions) but produced a higher percentage of high-grade watches. I collect Elgin watches, which dominated the broad, middle-ground of the watch market and produced around 65 million watches in the century that they were in business. If you have the right Hamilton today it can be considered a real treasure!

By the way - the finest of the "high-grade" watches were not railroad watches; they were the ships watches used for navigation.

Many American manufacturers got very close to producing a watch made from 100% US-made parts, but it was usually the spring steel in either (or both) the hair spring and mainspring that was sourced from Switzerland because of the quality of the steel. I do believe that Hamilton was the only manufacturer that actually produced a pocket watch that was 100% American-made, although I'm not familiar with ALL of the US manufacturers.
 
I have a good number of mid-level automatic watches that I rotate through, but I don't really have any that I consider "luxury" watches. I'd love to have a Rolex stainless/gold Submariner or an IWC Double Chronograph, but I wouldn't give up most of my collection to own one. That's probably penny wise and pound foolish in the long run. :rolleyes:

My most expensive watch is a Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Deepquest. It's a highly specialized tool watch that has a one piece titanium case, a titanium bracelet, It's COSC certified, shock resistant to over 7000 G's, anti-magnetic, water resistant to 3000 meters and has tritium hands and markers. The deepest it goes is the occasional dip in the lake, but I appreciate the workmanship and construction. ;)

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Another of my favorites is an original Bulova Astronaut. It still has its original dual coil tuning fork movement that hums right along! There's quite a bit of history to these electronic watches.

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Today's wrist check is a Victorinox Airboss Mach 7. These are well made, well regulated, have excellent lume and reasonably priced. They Have a 45mm case, so you need a pretty big wrist to get away with it.

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Just checking the state of mine, I've discovered I'm missing 1 watch!
Pic #2, empty spot should be a white dialed Gerlach, twin to the black dial on the left.
I can't find it anywhere!
Oops, pic 3 is a dup from yesterday.
 

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I love going through this thread, so many great watches and the stories behind them are the best.
I'd like to get a Ball one day, but didn't know until recently that "on the Ball" was taken from that watch referring to being on time.
Watches, guns and cars seem to be a common trait amongst us? lol
Keep em' coming boys!
Oh yeah, after seeing some of y'alls storage cases I decided it was time to get me one. I order one that will hold all my extra bracelets, straps and watch parts in a lower drawer.
 

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My Omega 8800...
With the original 007 watch and of course his PPK.
Ever wondered why Omega can't just make a commemorative Bond watch like that instead plastering 007 or Bond crud all over it, to me it just cheapens a very high end watch? Put the "Bond" on the box/papers and maybe add a special Bond/007 band and leave the watch alone. I think they'd sell more that way too.
 
There is an old tale involving Henry Ford and Swiss watchmakers that I do not believe is true, but I'll pass it on here just for fun:

In the early 1900s, Henry Ford sent a watchmaker in Switzerland a 1/64" precision drill bit as a show of American precision manufacturing. The Swiss replied with a nice letter complimenting Mr. Ford on such an excellent product, and returned the bit to him with a hole drilled through it!

Now that's usually where the tale ends, but allegedly Mr. Ford then contacted the Swiss again and stated "If you like the drill bit enough, we can get you a million by next Tuesday!"
 
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