Ejection trouble

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Cherokee1

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Hello all. I haven't been here in quite awhile hope every one is doing fine. Now I have a question for y'all. I have a model 17 made in the 70's. It shoots great but I am having a big problem with it. Every time I shoot all six rounds one right after the other I can't get the empty's to eject. Tap the ejector rod wit a soft hammer to get them out. I have cleaned the cylinders with a bronze brush. That didn't help. I then cleaned with the brush and then polished the chambers with Mother's polish on a bore swab and I am still having the same problem. Any solutions.
 
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I had like problems with both my M-17 and 18's.
Finally purchased a .22 cal chamber reamer along with a "T" tap handle. after several passes the problems were resolved.

I chose to remove the cylinder from the frame, used several drops of oil in each charging hole. When removing the reamer remember to turn it clockwise as you remove it. That will prevent gulling of the interior of the chamber holes.

As I remember the total cost of the reamer and T handle was a little less that $100.00. Yet that should be a once in a life time expense.
 
22's are notoriously picky about ammo.

First, I would not be convinced of anything from what you've stated. The cylinders could be too large. The cases could expand and be tough to eject.

I would certainly try a dozen different 22 manufacturers before I started investing in tools.

If you can find a few pin gauges around .22 caliber, it wouldn't hurt to find out what size those chambers actually are.

Prescut
 
oddshooter said:
22's are notoriously picky about ammo.

First, I would not be convinced of anything from what you've stated. The cylinders could be too large. The cases could expand and be tough to eject.

I would certainly try a dozen different 22 manufacturers before I started investing in tools.

If you can find a few pin gauges around .22 caliber, it wouldn't hurt to find out what size those chambers actually are.

Prescut
Click to expand...

Is a common problem with older Smith .22's. They have TIGHT chambers. Ammo brand has nothing to do with it.
 
mine is the same way 17-4, I keep a bore brush and handle ready to clean her out.
 
Thanks for the reply's. I have noticed some of the chambers are tighter than others. I will try more ammo before trying the reamers though.
 
You can rent a 22 lr reamer from 4D Reamer Rentals for $38 plus $12.85 shipping . You want a cylinder reamer, not a barrel reamer as pilots portion is different. Cylinder reamer pilot is throat size and a barrel reamer pilot rides on lands

22 LR Cylinder - 4D Reamer Rentals

You do not need the go/no go gauges.

Just turn in using a tap handle. Always turn clock wise with a coat of light oil until rim cutter touches recesses. Pull out using a bit of a clock wise twist. Clean with brake or carb cleaner. oil reamer and chamber and repeat on next chamber. It will only remove a very tiny amount of material in tiny tiny cuttings. You do not need extractor in place, but leaving it will not hurt anything. Place cylinder in padded vise and no need to get it real tight as not much torque is needed. After you're all done clean well with carb cleaner, make sure clean under ejector.

Lots of S&W 22 cylinders have this problem. Reaming WILL fix it.

I can fire a carton of 22lr from any of my K22s and eject with a thumb stroke.

Lots of S&W 22 cylinders have this problem. Reaming WILL fix it.

In fact there was a reamer being passed from one member to the next on this forum for some time. I have no idea where it is now.
 
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Cherokee1 said:
I have a lot of brands and types of 22 lr. I've tried them all and they stil stick. Sounds like reaming is coming. Thanks for al the input.
Click to expand...


Have you tried Federal 36-gr bulk ammo?
Those are the easiest to extract from my S&W .22 LR revolvers.
 
My 17-3 and 34-1 both had the problem!

I set up a workmate with a cake pan as an oil catching bed with a "Pony" Anvil/vise. Using leather strips as pads I reamed each chamber I kept the chambers flooded with heavy cutting oil and only used hand power! Took about 20 minutes per chamber!

The reamer is from Brownells; 513-051-220 22LR CYLINDER FINISHER REAMER'. Any tap handle for #0-1/4" TAPS.

Both revolvers are great operating guns now!

Depending on the weather I think I'll plink a couple hundred rounds each, Monday or Tuesday.

Ivan
 
You mean 20 minutes, per cylinder, don't you????

I just basically turn the reamer by hand with a tiny tiny bit of pressure and it has never taken but maybe a minute per chamber. Most of my chambers I was a 1/3 to 1/2 way in before there was any resistance at all. I did 5 cylinders one after the other. 4 K22 and a I frame 22.

I don't know what some people are so resistant to reaming. I hear about people using brushes on a drill, lapping or grinding compound on a mop or swabs, fine sandpaper on a split stick, hones etc. NONE of those are precision tools and a reamer is. The amount of metal removed in this application is so tiny that the cuttings are much closer to metal dust than shavings. It is simple, and precise.
 
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Just be sure to stop before the cutter stop actually hits the rim seat. You do not want to increase the depth of the recess seating. It will enlarge your headspace and cause misfires.

Also, use plenty of "cutting" oil, and always turn the reamer forward, never backward. Cut by hand, don't put in a drill press or a hand drill.
 
steelslaver said:
You mean 20 minutes, per cylinder, don't you????

I just basically turn the reamer by hand with a tiny tiny bit of pressure and it has never taken but maybe a minute per chamber. Most of my chambers I was a 1/3 to 1/2 way in before there was any resistance at all. I did 5 cylinders one after the other. 4 K22 and a I frame 22.

I don't know what some people are so resistant to reaming. I hear about people using brushes on a drill, lapping or grinding compound on a mop or swabs, fine sandpaper on a split stick, hones etc. NONE of those are precision tools and a reamer is. The amount of metal removed in this application is so tiny that the cuttings are much closer to metal dust than shavings. It is simple, and precise.
Click to expand...

No, I mean 20 minutes a chamber. As near as I can tell both guns made 20ish years apart were only rough reamed! I'm not much of a fitting type of person, so I went slow, to try to keep from making a bubba boo boo!

The assembly of revolvers is a piecework paying job and the assembly men often skimped on this. In fact Columbus PD shipments of model 10's often had only been bores out and not even rough chambered (1970's).

My F-I-L's issue weapon from 1958 would chamber 38 S&W, a fellow cadet had the consecutive SN and wouldn't chamber anything but 38 Special (as it should be!)

Ivan

ETA: I was surprised on how much harder the 34-1 cylinder's steel was than the 17-3's!
 
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I bought a reamer also and did all 6 of my .22's....put the fun back into these revolvers!...I'm starting to believe .22 brass construction changed a lot thru the years...had some old Super-X from the 60's...shot them (pre reamer) seemed like they worked better, all work now
 
My 34-1 gets sticky and harder to eject after about 50 rounds. I just bring my brass bore brush and give it a couple swipes per chamber in the middle of the range session and we're back in business.

I haven't reached a point where I'm convinced that a reamer is necessary for me...
 
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