Tightening Ejector Rod in Revolver

[usnrigger]

I don't see any problem with a little powdered rosin on the threads and tighten with a piece of leather rapped around rod and some pliers.

USNRigger

 

[Double-O-Dave]

I agree with Tyrod, above. I've used a spare drill chuck successfully for many years to disassemble a cylinder. But I struggled with the recoil slide spring removal and insertion, even with the offset shaped spring tool, until I came across the tools offered by the "Gunsmither". These two tools are well designed and well made. They are both well worth the modest cost for both of them.

Best of luck,

Dave

 

[ca survivor]

I would only use the red Loctite.

 

[hotrod150]

Forget the leather in the vise or pliers. The Power Custom Revolver Extractor Rod Removal Tool from Midway fits the J frame, KLN frames and Ruger Security Six. It works great.
Product #784689 for $26.99.

I'll sell you one of my tools for $19.95, no, today only let's make that TWO for 19.95. Free shipping.

 

[2152hq]

Two pieces of wood and a bench vise, you can tighten one up or take it apart w/o ever damaging anything. Works with the early oversize ejector rod head too.

As far as keeping it in place,,just tighten it up,the cylinder provides a lot of leverage this way.
It's just a two pieces threaded together. They don't do anything but slide back and forth with hand pressure. Don't over think things by using thread lockers and other stuff on the threads.

If the parts are siezed together a bit too well w/them, you can twist them right apart upon disassembly. Then you really have a problem.

 

[SgtLumpy]

...remember that for revolvers made after 1961 it's a Left Hand thread. One way to spot the left hand thread ejector rods is that all of them have a narrow groove just behind the knurling wide enough you can snag it with a fingernail.

I suggest caution...

My 1956 pre model 36 Chief's Special, original everything, cyl ser# matches butt ser# etc, is LEFT hand threads. There is no groove near the knurling.

My 1976 Model 66 matches scooter's description.
My 1957 K-22 does as well. LEFT hand threads with groove.

All three revolvers have LEFT hand threads. ONE of them does not have a groove. TWO of them are pre-1961 when it's commonly written to expect them to be RIGHT hand threads.

There appear to have been variants.


Sgt Lumpy

 

[chief38]

I do NOT and will NOT recomend using locktite on the ejector rod. As for why, try re-assembling a cylinder that has had the ejector rod locktited. This is a very fine pitch thread and getting the thread started is purely a matter of "feel". Lose that "feel" due to the locktite residue and it's likely that you'll crossthread the joint, which means purchasing a new ejector rod and a new extractor star and then paying a gunsmith to fit and time it to your revolver.

A much simpler and safer option is to tighten it properly. Start by filling the cylinder with fired casings to protect the extractor star. Then fold a bit of old worn out leather belt over the knurling and grasp that with some slip joint household pliers. Note, I mean the common 2 postition pliers, not channel locks. Now wrap the fingers of your other hand around the cylinder and squeeze with the type of grip you would use for shaking hands with a Marine Line Officer. Basically, firm but not stupid firm, this isn't a handshake contest with an enlisted leatherneck. What you are going to do is use that hand holding the cylinder as a slip clutch, so let it slip once the ejector rod is tight. If you find it shoots loose again, squeeze a bit harder next time you tighten it up. Final note is to remember that for revolvers made after 1961 it's a Left Hand thread. One way to spot the left hand thread ejector rods is that all of them have a narrow groove just behind the knurling wide enough you can snag it with a fingernail.

I agree with scooter 100% - NO LOCKTITE - it's NOT needed and can only screw things up. The only thing I do differently is I chuck the Ejector Rod in a Drill Press close to the cylinder face, tighten snugly but don't Gorilla tighten the Chuck. Then simply turn the cylinder to loosen or tighten. Works MUCH BETTER than leather and pliers. It you do not have a Drill Press, use a portable drill chuck. Just make sure not to tighten the Chuck in the knurled area at the tip.

There is NO NEED for the fancy tools & jigs that are sold from Brownell's, Midway, etc. A Drill Press is better, faster and easier and it will NOT screw anything up! I have done this gazillions of times and have never had any issues. Just did TWO M18's this evening! Don't forget the empty cases!!!!!!!!!!

By the way, this method works so well, I assemble the parts with Rig #2 Oil on them and they never work loose. I don't like to leave blued parts free of rest preventative. This method has never failed me.

 

[Old Newf]

Good day to all...
Of the several S&W revolvers I have owned,only my most recent 686 has had the loosening issue.You can tell it's loose when the cylinder gets difficult to swing open.I discovered a 2 dollar method that works great & allows the ejector rod to be tightened properly without damage:a 1/4 brass compression fitting.It fits the ejector rod perfectly and allows you to use a wrench to tighten it.BE MINDFUL of over tightening though.I put empty brass in all 6 chambers when I tighten.I recommend splitting the ferrule in one place to make for easy removal.Works great in a pinch.I keep one in my shooting case now, but haven't needed it since tightening it properly.Proper tool is on the way to me.I don't recommend loctite either.

 

[ken158]

The factory does not use locktite and neither should you… IF you mess up the ejector star then you will not be able to buy a new one from the factory because they consider it a fitted part… Now you need to send in the gun for repair which will not be covered under warranty.

 

[oysterer]

The correct powers customer tool is required here, set it tight and low, put blanks into all the cylinder, watch the direction of thread, mostly left hand after 1950s or so, and tighten snug, dont overdo it. Then when the extract rod isn't totally straight you can make it very nice in the Powers ejector rod and yoke straighten tool (expensive tool).

I use loctite on everything like buffalo red sauce but NOT here. NO

 

[stansdds]

 

[Old Newf]

Old problems become new problems...assuming they left in the first place.lol

 

[RetCapt]

Agree with Old Newf on the currency of old threads.

I too will not use or advocate Loc-Tite. I have the Gunsmither tool, the Ron Power tool and a separate drill chuck. All three work equally well, along with the other preparations and precautions listed.

I have two sets of tools I use for firearms. One set stays in the cabinet for home use only. The other set resides in my (old) Pachmayr gun box, which goes out with me whenever I am shooting. This set of tools has everything I would need in the field. If, although it has never happened to me, I do have an ejector rod loosen, I can correct it right then and there.

Besides the utility element, I just find one of life's little pleasures is having the right tool for the job.

 

[cmj8591]

At the armorers school you are taught to tighten the ejector rod tightly in a vise then screw the cylinder onto the rod until your knuckles turn white. (I made up the part about the white knuckles!) They just use a plain jawed bench vise. No pads, no special tools. I have a Power tool that I keep in my range tool box and that works well also and is good to have when you're not near a workbench.

 

[steelslaver]

I made one of the tools like Midway and Brownells sells. It worked but I like using a drill chuck better. I found cheap drill in a pawn shop with a decent chuck, removed the chuck and keep it on my gun bench with the key in the jaws hand tight. I also have a block of wood with a 2 empty 22lr, 2 empty 32 S&W, 2 38 spec. 2 44 spec and 2 45 acp and 2 45 colts.

I can not remember a rod coming loose that I tightened. Make sure both parts are clean and dry.